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  #1  
Old April 24th, 2007, 12:38 AM
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kyle scheppler
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Exclamation D-90 Branch Deflectors

My question is this....what is a part list of the things I would need to make some branch deflectors for my defender 90? i am completely ignorant when it comes to a hardware store so exact names would be preferred.
thx!!!!!!!
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  #2  
Old April 24th, 2007, 01:44 AM
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http://www.defendersource.com/mod/bd.html

http://www.discoweb.org/limb/
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  #3  
Old April 26th, 2007, 08:11 AM
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Kyle,

The only thing about coated cable (as the D-90 link says) is that it yellows over time. I used Coated Cable - it has been on the truck for 6-7 years +/- now. A mistake I did make was locating the turnbuckle in the middle. This always caused more balance then I wanted.

The D-90 link addresses this and points out to put the weight of the turnbuckle on the bottom. A good point that I was silly not to do!

My cable is now whitish/yellow. My connectors are rusted. I have bought new supplies and am going to re-due this in the weeks ahead.

I am going to used Galv. Cable, and stainless connectors. Still a cheep mod - because all these parts are cheep - I think I spend like $30. I am going to use a small piece of clear flexible tubing at the front roll bar and roof rack so the Galv Cable is not scraping metal to metal (this is something the coated cables work well to stop).

I think it will turn out well...........Good luck with yours.

Flagg
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  #4  
Old April 26th, 2007, 01:48 PM
Doug Crowther
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Doug Crowther
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limb risers

Most boating supply stores sell a uv stabilized plastic covered stainless cable that is used for lifelines on sailboats. They also cary very cool stainless turnbuckles for the same application. This stuff will be a little more than $30 but will last the life of your truck. Try westmarine.com if there isn't a local store.
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  #5  
Old April 26th, 2007, 02:41 PM
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Daniel Brown
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JUST GOT DONE WITH MINE LAST WEEK. NO NEED TO GO TO A MARINE STORE. THEY HAVE EVERYTHING AT HOME DEPOT. YOU NEED 2 TURN BUCKELS, 12 U BOLT WIRE CLIP, 15' OF 3/16 COATED WIRE. HAVE THEM CUT THE WIRE INTO 5', 5', AND (2) 2.5' sections and a stong pair of wire cutter. Us the smaller sections at the brush gaurd and the 5' for the area for the trun buckel to the roll cage. double up the u bolts at every connection. Very easy and should not take more than an hour.
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  #6  
Old April 26th, 2007, 04:35 PM
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Yeah - but unless that Home Depot coated wire has changed from 6 years ago - it will turn yellow/white over time. That is the main reason I want to re-do mine......

The Marine UV stablieze wire sounds pretty cool.

I think I might have come up with a pretty cool set up with Galvanized wire and flexible clear tubes to run the small sections where it wraps the roll bar. Now I just need time to make the switch. I will post some pictures........if it turns out

Flagg
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  #7  
Old April 26th, 2007, 04:50 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Crowther
Most boating supply stores sell a uv stabilized plastic covered stainless cable that is used for lifelines on sailboats. They also cary very cool stainless turnbuckles for the same application. This stuff will be a little more than $30 but will last the life of your truck. Try westmarine.com if there isn't a local store.
Good call, that is exactly where I was intending to go when I do mine! I agree about going with stainless and the UV stabilized cable...it is definately worth the extra $$.
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  #8  
Old April 27th, 2007, 01:40 AM
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kyle scheppler
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The boating supply store suggestion was great i appreciate it. also keeping the turnbuckle closest to the bottom of the hood is another good suggestion...my front brush bar is from safarigard and it has a somewhat of an angle instead of being parallel to the hood...will the cable want to naturally slide down the brush bar if it is at an angle? and if so should i attach to a portion of the brush bar that is parallel to the point at which i attach on roll bar??
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  #9  
Old April 27th, 2007, 06:47 AM
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I put a little larger loop on the top end of mine that I could tread the end through and sinch it around the top of the roll cage. That way I could take it off I if I need to. I have seen several limb risers that were permanently attached and it makes it tough to work on the truck.

Scott
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  #10  
Old April 27th, 2007, 11:20 AM
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Not sure the best way to go up on the bar. I have seen some where people drilled through the bar and put an eye bolt through. Never liked that. I have a Rockware bumper and had them make it with tabs for the limb risers. I will have to devise something for the top attachment on the roof basket though-may go the marine route again-there are these cool stainless clamps that are used for bimini tops that clamp to small tubing that may work perfectly. I'm kind of hung up on stainless- locally building code even calls for stainless steel nails for waterfront homes. Stuff rusts around here much faster than in a non-saltwater environment.
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  #11  
Old April 27th, 2007, 11:35 AM
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Doug,

Make a loop in the cable, wrap it around the roll bar and thread the other end through. Then you can always take them off and it looks nice too.
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  #12  
Old April 27th, 2007, 12:48 PM
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Why do rover owners like these? Is it a throwback to the camel trophy? I don't see them on any other trucks.
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  #13  
Old April 27th, 2007, 01:53 PM
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Buck - You don't see these cables on any other trucks - WHICH IS EXACTALY WHY you want to put them on your Defender. Your Avatar message picture is so way cool - would it not be even cooler with Cables?

You think you Defender gets looks now - it is fun approaching the Truck and seeing people around it having a conversation about what those cables could be for..........

I have done some limited off-roading where they have helped to part some branches. I guess that is the practicle use.

I also think they look cool.

I also string Christmas lights all over the truck each December. I have a convertor that I can plug into the lighter to run the lights when I am driving. I leave it plugged into the house when I am home during the season.........I put the lights around the roof rack and back ladders - AND the Cables allow me to get it to the front brush bar...........

Those are my reasons for the cables...........Flagg
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  #14  
Old April 27th, 2007, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
Why do rover owners like these? Is it a throwback to the camel trophy? I don't see them on any other trucks.
I put mine on when I go wheeling in the woods...they are actually functional, they push the branches up and out of the way.

For normal around town stuff, I take them off.
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  #15  
Old April 28th, 2007, 12:03 AM
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Len Bruffett
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limb riser clamps

Hi Sam,

My limb riser clamps are realitively simple. In this case I found some well engineered stock straps that are used for cyclone/chainlink fencing at a local hardware store. I chose these clamps because the steel used in the clamp is engineered to be flexible enough to opened up, then be re clamped around a steel post and then withstand a pulling load without fatigue failure. The clamps in these chain Link fences have to withstand the static load to strech the chain links and "wind load" stress. The primary holes in the clamps are already in place and the material is galvanized. I drilled an additional set of holes to to run short bolts through that serve as the clamp pinch bolts. The factory holes are for the aluminimun clips I have the each end of my risers so I can remove them when not in use. I will take some pics for you this afternoon. I painted them black (after a few years the paint is begining to come off) no big deal - Before I clamped them to my ARB and Roll cage I put a couple layers of electricians "friction tape" around the bars where I intend to attach the clamps. That way there is never any metal to powdercoat finish contact. I have been using my risers for the past five years with no issues.

I could have fabed some clamps out of stainless steel - but the best solution for this clamp - I found at the hardware store!


I keep my riser in the truck and only put them on when we get to areas where we need them (or at a british car meet or two) they make for interesting conversation.

The cables are fairly low tech and inexpensive - simple aluminum turnbuckles with s.s. eye bolts, plastic coated s.s. cable- sweged over a cable thimble. After the turnbuckles are tightened they work great at keeping fresh growth from wacking the windshield. If the branches are "too woody" or too big we get out the bow saw and clear the way. We use them in the Sierras on some of the narrower trails in the early season (towards the end of the season most of the branches have already been cut or broken by other trail users).


The cables don't have to be massive - if you intend on pushing big branches out of the way think about what happens to the branch after it clears the windshield - It gets drawn across the thin aluminum skin of your roof cap. Big woody branches will score the aluminum toot suite! Or poke holes in your canvas.
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  #16  
Old April 28th, 2007, 12:31 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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I like those clamps...I have been trying to decide how I want to do mine. I might go with those. I need to re-paint/powdercoat my brushguard so I was tempted to weld tabs on it first, but that is a lot more work than your method!
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