Cylinder Head Studs - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 23rd, 2014, 12:31 PM
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Keith Armstrong
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Cylinder Head Studs

Okay, I looked, I really did.

Turner 4.6 just off the aero-plane
Freshened heads from Wichita
Composite gaskets from Indiana

The box-o-studs just arrived from Summit.

I'm reading the instructions ... I know, that's my first mistake...

This is indeed the ARP #157-4301 that's just ten per side, not fourteen.

Here's what I'm concerned with...

The ARP instructions spec 100 lb/ft as a final torque having been snuck up on three times.

I dunno, but 100 lb/ft sounds like a pretty big number to me.

Thoughts???
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  #2  
Old July 23rd, 2014, 12:45 PM
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Robert Dassler
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You'll pull the studs out of the block before you hit 100 lb/ft. I'd go about 65lb ft. I used stude for a short while and have since switched back to factory bolts.
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  #3  
Old July 23rd, 2014, 12:46 PM
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John B.
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Make sure you use the ARB lube. 100 lb-ft is less than you would put in the stock stretch bolts. It does not sound high to me.
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  #4  
Old July 23rd, 2014, 12:51 PM
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Keith Armstrong
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Thanks Rob.

I've got the lube...I was thinking 60 - 70 somewhere...

I've got new bolts too...really...you're back to the bolts?

Word on Noah's LWB
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Old July 23rd, 2014, 01:02 PM
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x2 on bolts. I have used the studs before as well and like the factory bolts better. The old steel head gaskets head bolt torque is 66 lb/ft.
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  #6  
Old July 23rd, 2014, 01:47 PM
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Robert Dassler
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Keith,
I've pulled threads out before I hit 80. I wouldn't go more than 65. You have to keep in mind that you will be torquing a well lubed fastener that has fine threads....the block end has less engagement than the factory bolts and is coarse threaded. The strength of the fastener is not the issue, it's the strength of the threads in the block and the engagement depth. I got the 65 ft/lb spec from the guys at Aluminumv8.com.
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Old July 23rd, 2014, 02:00 PM
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I went 70ish in a few sequences
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Old July 23rd, 2014, 02:12 PM
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1st. Snug (or 25 for rookies)
2nd. 55
3rd. 70

You can go to 75ish by feel if needed.

------ Follow up post added July 23rd, 2014 02:15 PM ------



Here da cheet sheet. Been used hundreds of times. Print it out and lay it on the valley, its good luck. Never had a single problem using lightly oiled factory type TTY bolts.
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Old July 23rd, 2014, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadsiderob View Post
...the block end has less engagement than the factory bolts...
wait...really??

Crikey, that's silly.

I'll have a look at the engagement before I do anything.

Probably be just as silly to cut more threads in the studs.

Sheesh, I may be looking for a solution to a non-problem, eh?
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Old July 23rd, 2014, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnfrozenCaveman View Post
wait...really??

Crikey, that's silly.

I'll have a look at the engagement before I do anything.

Probably be just as silly to cut more threads in the studs.

Sheesh, I may be looking for a solution to a non-problem, eh?
I hear a lot of guys running studs complaining because they have to go back and re torque.
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  #11  
Old July 23rd, 2014, 04:07 PM
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technically speaking there should be no reason why studs would have to be retorqued...
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