CV joint failure? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 10th, 2016, 03:59 PM
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CV joint failure?

So I have a knocking noise coming from the front of the truck. Only on deceleration at lower speeds. Not limited to turning, happens in a straight line as well. Hard to tell exactly where it's coming from with all the diesel noise, lol.. I've had issues with front drive shaft angle but the u-joints appear to be fine, so I don't think it's that. Is there a way to test the CV joints? I've done the drive in a circle thing but that doesn't consistently produce the noise, since it happens on deceleration. Any help appreciated!
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  #2  
Old January 10th, 2016, 05:37 PM
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It does seem to stop if I brake hard enough, but I think the knock is too hard to be brake pads. It sounds similar to a u joint. I might have to remove the front driveshaft and lock the diff to eliminate that as a possibility.
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  #3  
Old January 10th, 2016, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
CV's will still turn without the drive shaft. They will be driven by the wheels.

-Jeff
I think he meant to eliminate the u-joints as the cause.
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  #4  
Old January 10th, 2016, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
I think he meant to eliminate the u-joints as the cause.
Yep, that's what I meant.
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  #5  
Old January 10th, 2016, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Does if do it if you drag the brakes? If it stops clicking with the brakes, it could be the pad shuttering in the calipers.
make sure the caliper bolts are tight, sometimes they flop or you could be missing a bolt
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  #6  
Old January 10th, 2016, 10:24 PM
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So is there any way to test the CV joints without disassembling and a visual inspection?
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  #7  
Old January 11th, 2016, 12:03 PM
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Dump the oil in tye hub and look for metal particles! Take it to a tire shop for $25- tire rotation. Lock the transfer case before they put it on the hoist. Then tell tyem that you want to check something really quick / junp in and start the engine / ask one of the guy to jump in , give it about 1500RPM turn the steering from right to left really slow while your underneath listening for that noise.lol... Lift the hoise only a couple of feet off tye ground for saftey reasons! If youve eliminated the drive shaft and cannot nail it with your ear you'll have to take it out.

------ Follow up post added January 11th, 2016 12:10 PM ------

Remove the brake pads from the caliper to eliminate any friction noise / lift tye front with a jack and secure with hack stand. Have an assistant turn the wheel by hand while you have a stethoscope or equivalent on the hub listening for slight grinding noises or clicking noises. You can use a long flat head screw driver. Place the habdle to your ear and the tip on the hub.
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Old January 11th, 2016, 12:31 PM
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No need to take tye shaft off. To check drive shaft get underneath and greb the shaft and rotate from side to side checking play. It only takes a small amount of play for a shaft to make noise. If your not sure put a large scew driver thriugh tye flanges at either end of the shaft and rotate the shaft in strong left to right motions and you'll be able to "feel" the play. From your post it does sound like the shaft!
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  #9  
Old January 11th, 2016, 12:54 PM
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Easy check:

1. Take off the rubber caps on the front driveshaft flanges.
2. Make sure that the c-clips are installed on both sides.
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  #10  
Old January 30th, 2016, 03:31 PM
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So i locked the center diff and removed the front drive shaft. Knocking got louder, so i assumed it was the rear drive shaft. Put the front back in and removed the rear, but the noise is still there. It's getting louder and now it is more noticeable that it goes away when I brake. Leads me to believe it's the CV joint or something else in the hub area. Thoughts?
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  #11  
Old February 24th, 2016, 01:28 PM
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Replaced the front right CV and got it all back together yesterday. Drove 20 miles to work this morning with no knocking so that appears to have been the issue. Good thing since the RRC is still down with clutch issues I was having Rover withdrawal!
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Old February 24th, 2016, 01:57 PM
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Glad it was a straight forward fix
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  #13  
Old February 25th, 2016, 01:02 PM
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Well crap, that didn't last long. Heard the knocking again this morning. Probably reasonable to assume the other cv also needs to be replaced, but I guess it could still be something else. This is driving me crazy..
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  #14  
Old February 25th, 2016, 01:07 PM
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So you're certain it's not the front diff?
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Old February 25th, 2016, 02:44 PM
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Not certain of anything... What's the best way to isolate it to the diff?
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  #16  
Old February 25th, 2016, 02:47 PM
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You can always pop open the drain plug and feel around for metal. Can you spin both wheels forward while stopping the drive shaft?
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  #17  
Old February 25th, 2016, 02:51 PM
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Another dumb check - are the bronze bushings installed on the front stub axles?
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  #18  
Old February 25th, 2016, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
You can always pop open the drain plug and feel around for metal. Can you spin both wheels forward while stopping the drive shaft?
Haven't done that check but I had the rear drive shaft removed and drove around with the center diff locked. Couldn't do that if the diff was toast but maybe it could still make noise?

------ Follow up post added February 25th, 2016 02:41 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Another dumb check - are the bronze bushings installed on the front stub axles?
I think you are referring to what they call the thrust washer. And yes, it is installed at least on the side that I replaced the CV joint.
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  #19  
Old February 25th, 2016, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiftRover View Post
I think you are referring to what they call the thrust washer. And yes, it is installed at least on the side that I replaced the CV joint.
He means the bushing (or bearing) that supports and locates the inside of the CV joint stub shaft.

As far as the diff goes, you can see a lot through the fill plug hole.
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  #20  
Old February 25th, 2016, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
He means the bushing (or bearing) that supports and locates the inside of the CV joint stub shaft.
That's the one. It looks like this:



Without it, the CV joint makes a helluva knocking noise.
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