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  #1  
Old February 12th, 2013, 11:26 AM
chuck17
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charles E Hudgins
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cut off while driving

1994 defender has been running fine. Engine died on me while driving and will not start back up. Has anyone has this issue? I have researched some and ideas that were given : Iginition coil, fuel pump relay, fule pump, ignition coil, inertia switch, fuze, ... SO does this vehicle have a fuel switch turnoff? where?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old February 12th, 2013, 11:47 AM
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Jason England
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Check the plenum hose ( the big fat one ) ... it has a habit of coming lose and does exactly this ... air hoses is first on the list of items to check on the LR diagnostics.

You can check spark by pulling a lead off and putting an old plug in and holding against the engine block. That would prove all ignition components at a basic level.

Fuse is in small fuse box under bonnet near brake booster. Would be really suprised if it was this.

on a 95 the cutout is on the firewall near the airbox and MAF sensor. It's highly unlikely to be this unless you nearly rolled just before this happened ...

My money would be on the plenum hose

Oh and make sure you post feedback and progress ... there is nothing more frustrating than suggesting things and not hearing back!
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #3  
Old February 12th, 2013, 12:01 PM
chuck17
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charles E Hudgins
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Plenum Hose

hey , Thank you for the reply. I had running issues last week in sucking in air and the Plenum hose came lose. I fixed that. It has been running great since. Yesterday , while traveling about 25mph, it just died! Tried to restart and it did, but died... Still will not start!
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  #4  
Old February 12th, 2013, 12:05 PM
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Jason England
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Reset the ECU. Disconnect battery positive and ground it. Mine does that and I have to manually restart the fuel pump via my service computer ECUmate. You can do it the above way.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #5  
Old February 12th, 2013, 12:27 PM
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William Skidmore
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How old is the flame trap? That cannister looking thing on top of the valve cover on the passenger side. If you have never replaced it then it could be due for a replacement.
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  #6  
Old February 12th, 2013, 12:42 PM
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joe heins
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1st isolate spark or fuel.

if no fuel, Check the coil wires for loose connections,

check the fuel pump relay, you can get one at NAPA, seach forum for part number, if that's not it at least you have a spare.

If no spark, on the 94, I think ignition module can overheat if not removed from original position right next to distributer. Lots of threads on that here.

Joe
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  #7  
Old February 12th, 2013, 12:53 PM
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Dennis Lynch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck17 View Post
1994 defender has been running fine. Engine died on me while driving and will not start back up. Has anyone has this issue? I have researched some and ideas that were given : Iginition coil, fuel pump relay, fule pump, ignition coil, inertia switch, fuze, ... SO does this vehicle have a fuel switch turnoff? where?

Thanks
Have you checked these things that were researched?
Did it sputter, then die, or just die?
Let the fun begin!!!
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  #8  
Old February 12th, 2013, 08:49 PM
chuck17
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charles E Hudgins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Reset the ECU. Disconnect battery positive and ground it. Mine does that and I have to manually restart the fuel pump via my service computer ECUmate. You can do it the above way.


okay, the spark plugs are firing.. I turn the key and hear no humming at all.... will check the fuel pump relay tomorrow. Mech friend thinks its the fuel pump in the tank?
New fuel pump installed in 2010?

------ Follow up post added February 12th, 2013 08:51 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
How old is the flame trap? That cannister looking thing on top of the valve cover on the passenger side. If you have never replaced it then it could be due for a replacement.

Okay The flame trap....Well not sure if ever replaced. I was wonderings what that was? Can you explain to its purpose and how it relates to it stalling out and not starting?

Thank you
Chuck
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  #9  
Old February 12th, 2013, 08:53 PM
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Charles Galpin
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The fuel pump relay is easy to test. Just turn the key to the run position (the position it sits when running - one turn less than trying to start it). You should hear the relays click, fuel pump run for a few seconds, then the relay click again. If not, get a new relay.

hth
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  #10  
Old February 12th, 2013, 08:56 PM
chuck17
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charles E Hudgins
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JHHorse

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhhorse View Post
1st isolate spark or fuel.

if no fuel, Check the coil wires for loose connections,

check the fuel pump relay, you can get one at NAPA, seach forum for part number, if that's not it at least you have a spare.

If no spark, on the 94, I think ignition module can overheat if not removed from original position right next to distributer. Lots of threads on that here.

Joe

Yes there is fire. coil wires seem good... I will check the fuel relay tomorrow...Had to figure out where they were... . Also thought about changing ignition module also...
thanks chuck

------ Follow up post added February 12th, 2013 09:04 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by lynchee View Post
Have you checked these things that were researched?
Did it sputter, then die, or just die?
Let the fun begin!!!
Hey, I was going about 25 mph, and it just died.... no sputtering....I did try and restart it and it did for a second... but now will not start at all... Mechanic seems to think its the fuel pump , but just looked at records from previous owner and was changed in 2010. I turned switch to see is i could hear the fuel pump and heard nothing...

chuck
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  #11  
Old February 12th, 2013, 09:23 PM
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William Skidmore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck17 View Post
okay, the spark plugs are firing.. I turn the key and hear no humming at all.... will check the fuel pump relay tomorrow. Mech friend thinks its the fuel pump in the tank?
New fuel pump installed in 2010?

------ Follow up post added February 12th, 2013 08:51 PM ------




Okay The flame trap....Well not sure if ever replaced. I was wonderings what that was? Can you explain to its purpose and how it relates to it stalling out and not starting?

Thank you
Chuck
Part of the PCV system. When its not cleaned every so often or replaced after so many miles it will get clogged up and therefore the engine is not able to breath. Then choking and dying.
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  #12  
Old February 12th, 2013, 09:45 PM
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Tony Brooks
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The workshop manual has a very good test procedure to diagnose the ignition system. A good starting point to think through the potential that it's the ignition module (because there's at least a 50% chance thats the issue) is to see if the ignition module has been relocated. You'll know it has by checking to see if there's an aluminum bracket mounted bracket mounted behind the cooler with a small black box on it with a harness leading to the distributor. If you don't have that (it'll be obvious), you likely still have the original module, which is suspect. They seem to be especially sensitive to fluctuations in voltage caused by a dying voltage regulator (which is internal to the alternator). It appears more common that the modules go bad after installation of a new or rebuilt alternator.

Beyond the module, there are several other things that could be wrong: fuel pump, fuel pump relay, plugs, wires, ECU, coolant temp sensor, fuel temp sensor, even a dicked up distributor. But it's likely that ignition module. IIRC STC 1856 is the relocation kit.

This same issue screwed up many months during my time with my '94, and many others have been there with you. Why this is such a prevalent issue in the '94s and you never hear of it in the v belt Discos and RRCs I have no idea.

Good luck!
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  #13  
Old February 14th, 2013, 09:28 PM
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If it is your pump, I recently rebuilt mine with a Carter pump from Napa - $50 instead of the $300 for a Rover pump.

I can talk you through it or offer some tips if you want to ping me.
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  #14  
Old February 17th, 2013, 10:12 PM
chuck17
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charles E Hudgins
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At this point, when turning the key to power on, I hear no humming noise and getting power to the wires at the fuel pump. I also wanted to check the fuel relay before tackling the fuel pump. I believe i have found the fuel relay , but I also have air conditioning. It seems to be located on the passenger side dash area?
Any hints on getting to it.
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  #15  
Old February 17th, 2013, 10:40 PM
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Just drop the 6 or so screws that hold the AC under dash unit on, pull the unit down and out of the way and you'll see the ECU and 2 silver relays against the top of the footwell/bulkhead on the passenger side.

Remember the fuel relays I believe are specific to that application (rather than being able to plug in a generic relay).
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  #16  
Old February 19th, 2013, 04:06 PM
chuck17
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charles E Hudgins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
Part of the PCV system. When its not cleaned every so often or replaced after so many miles it will get clogged up and therefore the engine is not able to breath. Then choking and dying.
In regards to the Flame Trap.. I removed and took out the wire mesh and used brake cleaner to thoroughly clean... Looking inside the manifold...it looks pretty bad ... should i remove and clean out?

------ Follow up post added February 19th, 2013 04:14 PM ------

The problem with the cutting off on me was the fuel pump folks!!! I dropped the tank and removed the old fuel tank and hook up the new one and the old one and sure enough the old one did not run...
Thanks everyone for all your help and advice...
HA now , The alternator has a bad Bearing and needs replacing. It was suppose to be a new one installed about 10 months ago... but oh well....
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