Custom Chassis Advice? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 24th, 2009, 11:28 AM
ajh
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Andrew J. Hutton
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Custom Chassis Advice?

Can anyone see a down-side to correcting for the lift geometry changes by modifying the chassis itself?

In my case I'm having a new Richards chassis done and what we've discussed is moving the arm mounts back and tilted down at 3 degrees to eliminate the bushing-bind caused by the 2" OME (40mm) lift and negate the slight wheelbase change as well.

At the same time I'm having the North Offroad rear winch crossmember (attached image) installed, bolt-on engine mounts with both the 200TDI and V8 mount locations available, front and back anti-swaybar mounts (rear lowered by 75mm to allow fitting the Safari Equipment 110L long-range tank) and possibly roll-cage mounts added. If anyone can think of anything else that would be good to do with the new chassis in general I'd love to hear before they finish it
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  #2  
Old March 24th, 2009, 11:56 AM
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Keith Kreutzer
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I could see where you want to get to but for a 2" lift It may be better to leave things in their stock location. I would think you would want a better set of trailing arms then stock anyway and those easily address that. As for the radius arms again limiting bind is a great idea but you will still have caster to deal with, again that may be easier to deal with by using the available aftermarket radius arms.
Just my $.02
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  #3  
Old March 24th, 2009, 12:18 PM
ajh
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Andrew J. Hutton
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Well, for caster I am going to re-index the swivels and correct there to avoid having to deal with pinion angle change, spring seats, etc (yea I know with 2" those are minimal). This will be a mostly on-road, long-distance expedition vehicle so I'm pretty sure the stock arms will be OK, and the cost of doing it on the chassis is significantly less than buying new arms. Since I'm not going for extreme articulation or lift I'm hoping the stock propshafts will do with this setup at least for awhile, the rest of the items I need are costing a small fortune (insert muttering about Land Rover and door construction here)

Is there a drawback to what I'm planning over aftermarket arms? From everyone I've talked to it seems like the 'right' way to fix things in this range of lift.
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  #4  
Old March 24th, 2009, 12:29 PM
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Seems like a bad idea as that is a pretty permanent "fix" whereas radius and trailing arms can be shimmed, or new ones fabricated. Given that springs vary in height by maker and over time, I would not want to make any permanent mods to the chassis that could effect usability in the future, when a simple, adaptable solution already exists. the LR coil suspension seems to really lend itself to modifcation and upgrade as designed, why fix what is not broken? like others have said, stock trailing arms are kind of weak and you're probably going to want to replace them anyway.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ajh
Can anyone see a down-side to correcting for the lift geometry changes by modifying the chassis itself?

In my case I'm having a new Richards chassis done and what we've discussed is moving the arm mounts back and tilted down at 3 degrees to eliminate the bushing-bind caused by the 2" OME (40mm) lift and negate the slight wheelbase change as well.

At the same time I'm having the North Offroad rear winch crossmember (attached image) installed, bolt-on engine mounts with both the 200TDI and V8 mount locations available, front and back anti-swaybar mounts (rear lowered by 75mm to allow fitting the Safari Equipment 110L long-range tank) and possibly roll-cage mounts added. If anyone can think of anything else that would be good to do with the new chassis in general I'd love to hear before they finish it
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Old March 24th, 2009, 11:03 PM
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There is almost no "bushing bind" on the frame end of either arm. Especially with such a small lift and stock suspension. If the person building this thinks your ideas are good ones, I wouldn't trust them to build a frame. Sorry if that sounds harsh, but its sincere.
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  #6  
Old March 24th, 2009, 11:09 PM
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Andrew J. Hutton
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Fair enough, so all the people selling the cranked arms (either end) for a 40mm lift are just taking advantage? I freely admit to probably over-analyzing things here, it's my first Defender rebuild so I'm a bit anxious to get it 'right'.
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Old March 24th, 2009, 11:24 PM
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Frame mods = bad.

Heavy duty bent rear trailing arms = good.

Castor corrected front swivels or radius arms = nice, but not necessary with 2in
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Old March 24th, 2009, 11:28 PM
ajh
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Andrew J. Hutton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Frame mods = bad.

Heavy duty bent rear trailing arms = good.

Castor corrected front swivels or radius arms = nice, but not necessary with 2in
OK, got it Will drop those changes then. HD arms will come later, already spending too much at once

Thanks for the advice guys... and I realized I meant bushing preload not bind.
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