Crossmember Replacment in New England, North East area? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 31st, 2009, 02:47 PM
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Crossmember Replacment in New England, North East area?

Looking to replace the rear crossmember, it's not bad at all, but its also not perfect. Any recommendations? Thanks!
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  #2  
Old August 31st, 2009, 03:09 PM
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Adler's Antique auto in Stephentown does amazing work 518/733-5749
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  #3  
Old August 31st, 2009, 05:59 PM
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I've ordered mine from UK , 4 days delivered to PA for 250.00ish, then RoverLab install it

Call Trevor if you need help replacing it
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  #4  
Old August 31st, 2009, 08:01 PM
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Northeast New England shop

Where abouts in NE are you talking about? Theres a couple of shops I could recommend. One in NH. One In MA
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  #5  
Old August 31st, 2009, 09:24 PM
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4x4 Center in Burlington . . . http://www.the4x4center.com/
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  #6  
Old August 31st, 2009, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugbier
I've ordered mine from UK , 4 days delivered to PA for 250.00ish, then RoverLab install it

Call Trevor if you need help replacing it
which one did you get ... mine is due for a change soon and I've heard various stories about the quality?

thanks

J
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  #7  
Old September 1st, 2009, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce
which one did you get ... mine is due for a change soon and I've heard various stories about the quality?

thanks

J
Jason

This one http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFE...r_-_basic.html


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  #8  
Old September 1st, 2009, 09:22 AM
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Shops

2nd the 4X4 Center. The fine machine pictured on my profile- and on the 4X4 web site under restorations is a sample of their fine work
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  #9  
Old September 1st, 2009, 09:30 AM
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That's the one I ordered and it came with no brackets on it to mount it to the frame. I had to wait about two months for them to send me a fitment kit. Just an fyi.
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  #10  
Old September 1st, 2009, 12:09 PM
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it depends, do you want a gavy crossmember or a regular steel crossmemeber, i dont even know wich one to go with and their are a ton of places, classic 4x4 , cityside , or joe zinter, those are the best shops, joe is best for design and truck work. he is the best for welding and chasis.

steve

Follow-up Post:

also what i s better gavy or steel, anyone here done both?????? the crossmember gets beatup the most on these trucks in the northeast
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  #11  
Old September 1st, 2009, 12:13 PM
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shops

yes, cityside in MA is a fine shop w/ many years in the trade. Galv rear X-member eliminates future issues but must be done by someone that knows how to work w/ galv parts.

Who is Joe Zinter? Where is his shop? Is he LR specific or a fab shop?
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  #12  
Old September 1st, 2009, 12:26 PM
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Do you need extensions or not on the crossmember?
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  #13  
Old September 1st, 2009, 02:20 PM
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Extensions

If your asking me my suggestion is to do a thorough investigation of your rear x-member and frame rails. Using the original weld line as a reference on the frame rails, follow the frame rail to the welds at the x-member. At the intersection of the frame rail and x-member, If corrosion has reached anything further than an inch or so down the frame rail, I'd strongly advise getting the x-member replacement with extensions. Otherwise, by the time you have the old x-member off and steel cleaned up, you'll be welding to thin air vs. frame rail.

JMO
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  #14  
Old September 1st, 2009, 02:39 PM
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With as old as our trucks are getting you would think one of the US Based shops would pick a few of the rear members with extensions up and sell them locally. There has to be a market for it.
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  #15  
Old September 1st, 2009, 02:49 PM
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Extensions

especially seeing as how as soon as you turn the key they start rusting. Basically I wresteled with this issue for some time and decided if I'm doing it, I'm doing it once. Solution was to shoehorn a galvanized frame under my series IIa. A Marsland galvanized frame awaits my Tdi.

Economy of scale. If you do the rear x-member correctly, the rear tub should come off (I reason). At that point, where the truck will be layed up for a while, I decided to spend the extra few days to strip the rest of it and just replace the frame. Problem solved. Better end result.

Good exchange rate now directly w/ Marsland.
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  #16  
Old September 1st, 2009, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark McDonough
especially seeing as how as soon as you turn the key they start rusting. Basically I wresteled with this issue for some time and decided if I'm doing it, I'm doing it once. Solution was to shoehorn a galvanized frame under my series IIa. A Marsland galvanized frame awaits my Tdi.

Economy of scale. If you do the rear x-member correctly, the rear tub should come off (I reason). At that point, where the truck will be layed up for a while, I decided to spend the extra few days to strip the rest of it and just replace the frame. Problem solved. Better end result.

Good exchange rate now directly w/ Marsland.
Well I patch welded mine last summer. I still think a frame off is way more work than what I want to get into. I can basically strip down the rear in a few hours and be ready to cut off the old and put on the new crossmember. Whereas with a frame off I would actually have to garage it for a few weeks at least. Would be nice to switch everything over to galvanized though and be done with it. Maybe when the engine explodes.
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  #17  
Old September 1st, 2009, 04:11 PM
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blown out

yeah, I was hoping for a good reason to garage it for a few weeks too...other than the usual rust but with no rear bumper pre sey and the New Hampshire state inspection guy poking at the thing with a screw driver, I knew well before I left that I'd have few choices if I thought I was going to get a sticker.

Actually looking up from underneath the whole thing looked pretty ugly to me. Not like some of the road warrior machines you see trolling the byways in winter around here but ugly enough. And lets face it, these guys that inspect stuff for a living dont care. They see rust and it's all the same to them whether it's a mad max machine or your prized LR. Only thing is, they also dont know to show any mercy to a guy that has no rear bumper and basically tearing a chunk of rust from the rear x-member is sentancing it's owner to a few days/weeks of hard labor.

They dont want to hear the; It's not a bumper, it's part of the frame story. In fact, when I hit him with that he wanted to call a tow truck to get it out of his shop!
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  #18  
Old September 1st, 2009, 04:30 PM
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  #19  
Old September 1st, 2009, 04:39 PM
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Finding a galvanized crossmember with extensions in the US is the hardest part. Why anyone would buy just the cross member w/o extensions and remove the whole tub is beyond me.
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  #20  
Old September 1st, 2009, 05:16 PM
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So how are you treating the welds where the galvanized member meets the frame? POR-15?
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