Crossmember Replacment in New England, North East area? - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old September 1st, 2009, 05:21 PM
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Cold galvanizing compound.
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  #22  
Old September 1st, 2009, 05:28 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Ken, do you have any pictures showing the damage? It may not need replacing, depending on the damage and your plans for the truck. I assume this is not for your SW, but that other truck you told me about?
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  #23  
Old September 1st, 2009, 08:43 PM
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Joe Zinter
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Thanks for the plug Steve...

I'm the 'Joe' mentioned above. I do custom rover/metal work on the side. To give some idea of what I do.... right now I'm doing a galvy rcm, some a-pillar support brackets, roll cage pieces, and a custom heavy duty rear bumper. It helps fund my rover project: Series iii 88" on a custom coil chassis, with an efi v8, r380, lt230, and custom sliders/bumpers/roll cage, which will run on switchable fuels (propane and unleaded).

If anybody needs anything... shoot me a PM.
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  #24  
Old September 1st, 2009, 08:46 PM
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Joe's work is INSANELY high quality.
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  #25  
Old September 1st, 2009, 08:51 PM
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Kenny
NAS SW l NAS ST l 110 SW | 110 Crew
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WOW, thanks for all the suggestions.... I didn't realize there were that many options out there!

I want to go galvy...where can I find one?


Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Ken, do you have any pictures showing the damage? It may not need replacing, depending on the damage and your plans for the truck. I assume this is not for your SW, but that other truck you told me about?
I will take some pics, it is actually my SW. The other is rust free...(south west truck). I am going to restore the SW. The crossmember is not in bad condition as you saw. I just want it perfect. I think I found an ST to make a trail rig! Either way, I will take some pictures when I get a chance.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by J.5
Thanks for the plug Steve...

I'm the 'Joe' mentioned above. I do custom rover/metal work on the side. To give some idea of what I do.... right now I'm doing a galvy rcm, some a-pillar support brackets, roll cage pieces, and a custom heavy duty rear bumper. It helps fund my rover project: Series iii 88" on a custom coil chassis, with an efi v8, r380, lt230, and custom sliders/bumpers/roll cage, which will run on switchable fuels (propane and unleaded).

If anybody needs anything... shoot me a PM.
Joe, PM on the way..

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by brn24whl
Adler's Antique auto in Stephentown does amazing work 518/733-5749
Thanks again Eric!

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugbier
I've ordered mine from UK , 4 days delivered to PA for 250.00ish, then RoverLab install it

Call Trevor if you need help replacing it
Thanks!
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  #26  
Old September 1st, 2009, 10:06 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Yeah, Joe did all the welding on my chassis - really pretty welds, much better than original.
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  #27  
Old September 2nd, 2009, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Yeah, Joe did all the welding on my chassis - really pretty welds, much better than original.
The latter statement is not saying much. But yes, the welds where Joe has ground them down look like the piece was machined on a CNC out of a billet.
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  #28  
Old September 2nd, 2009, 09:03 AM
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Andrew Dance
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark McDonough
Economy of scale. If you do the rear x-member correctly, the rear tub should come off (I reason). At that point, where the truck will be layed up for a while, I decided to spend the extra few days to strip the rest of it and just replace the frame. Problem solved. Better end result.
I'm in the middle of a frame off restoration and beginning to wish I had left the tub on to weld the cross member (until it was tacked in place). At least then you know all the bolt holes will line up perfectly. With the tub off you have to find another way to make sure the new cross member holes will line up nicely with the tub when it's back on.
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  #29  
Old September 2nd, 2009, 09:59 AM
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Joe Zinter
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Thanks Ron and Jim!

Ron... you project just got bumped to the top of my list

Ken... got your PM, response is on the way.
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  #30  
Old September 2nd, 2009, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAX711
I'm in the middle of a frame off restoration and beginning to wish I had left the tub on to weld the cross member (until it was tacked in place). At least then you know all the bolt holes will line up perfectly. With the tub off you have to find another way to make sure the new cross member holes will line up nicely with the tub when it's back on.
The way you do it is to either leave the tub on and tack it and then reweld or set up a jig before you cut off the old one.
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  #31  
Old September 2nd, 2009, 01:45 PM
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Andrew Dance
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
The way you do it is to either leave the tub on and tack it and then reweld or set up a jig before you cut off the old one.

Yeah, I've been trying to decide wether to pop the tub back on or make a jig. My x-member hasn't arrived yet but I think I'll go with the jig.
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