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  #21  
Old March 10th, 2011, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVaKevin View Post
if your going to rhinoline anything, make sure you get the rotors too. horseystyle.
That's what I'm talkin about!!!

Horsey

You never did say what you did with those rotors
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #22  
Old March 10th, 2011, 06:24 PM
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John Crouse
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Rust is the only thing holding my truck together. No rust -> no truck.
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  #23  
Old March 10th, 2011, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 61rover View Post
Rust is the only thing holding my truck together. No rust -> no truck.
Haha, so true. Sometimes I am afraid to remove any rust in fear of everything falling apart.
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  #24  
Old March 10th, 2011, 06:51 PM
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Will post pics of the progress
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #25  
Old March 10th, 2011, 07:28 PM
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Ospho works pretty good as a rust converter. We use it on iron restoration when we can't get all the rust out of the pitted surface.

Chip away whatever loose stuff you can then wire brush, on an angle grinder if you have one, then apply the ospho. I think you wait 24 hours and go over it with wire brush again. It will turn the rust into a white flaky that brushes away.

Never used the POR 15 but sounds like great stuff. We have used a primer called Rust Destroyer that supposedly has a five year guarantee even if painted over rust. Then use top coat of your choice.

At least you can get to both sides of the crossmember as opposed to the frame.
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  #26  
Old March 10th, 2011, 07:34 PM
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why cant i just spray converter in the area? Why even bother with this?
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  #27  
Old March 10th, 2011, 07:59 PM
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if you want to converter to work you first must physically get rid of the iron oxide "scale" that has built up. The converter won't work on a chunk of solid iron oxide. It can't really penetrate below the surface.


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why cant i just spray converter in the area? Why even bother with this?
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  #28  
Old March 10th, 2011, 07:59 PM
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Rust converter is not paint. It's just primer. It will wear off. Horsey has the advantage here. His rhinolining will last.

------ Follow up post added March 10th, 2011 06:01 PM ------

PS: What's up with that The Fast and The Furious tailpipe?
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  #29  
Old March 10th, 2011, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
Rust converter is not paint. It's just primer. It will wear off.

------ Follow up post added March 10th, 2011 06:01 PM ------

PS: What's up with that The Fast and The Furious tailpipe?

Exactly.

I bet he photoshopped that in. We know Barry can't afford that s**t.
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  #30  
Old March 10th, 2011, 08:25 PM
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Borla exhaust so rust encapsulator? Won't that do it?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #31  
Old March 10th, 2011, 08:30 PM
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Southwest USA Answer:

Probably but its still there

Rest of USA answer:

No

Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Borla exhaust so rust encapsulator? Won't that do it?
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  #32  
Old March 10th, 2011, 08:41 PM
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Encapsulator then waxoil?

New frame?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #33  
Old March 10th, 2011, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
I've used rust bullet a lot with good success. It is not just a primer and is hard to wear off even with a wire brush on an angle grinder (if applied properly). Scrape out the excess and get as much in there as you can. Charles is right though, eventually it will continue to delaminate due to the way it's constructed. You could do what I did and build a crossmember out of 6x3 rectangular tubing. No more nooks and crannies to hold water/mud/etc...
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  #34  
Old March 10th, 2011, 09:01 PM
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Honestly after replacing two of them now, I think if I ever do it again I'll build one out of tubing too. It would not be hard to make it look the same as a stock one but be vastly superior. The aftermarket replacements are even thinner material than the original and poorly constructed to boot.
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I'm here for the D's
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  #35  
Old March 10th, 2011, 09:11 PM
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I've been trying to figure out why Rover ever built the rear crossmember they way they did (of course that applies to a lot of things on a Rover!). The tubing route was not hard and it looks stock - can you tell in my avatar? It's about 3/8" taller than the stock one but will still fit the NAS bumper. I've been meaning to post about it so maybe I will do that...
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  #36  
Old March 10th, 2011, 09:13 PM
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Yes please do start a post on it, and show some detailed pictures if you have them. Let's not interfere with Barry's therapy session.

Barry, the rust will never stop and you will not be able to sleep until it is eradicated. There, my part is done
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I'm here for the D's
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  #37  
Old March 10th, 2011, 09:33 PM
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Dibs on Barry's frame.
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Thank you -

Rob
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  #38  
Old March 10th, 2011, 09:51 PM
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Let me know if you need pics of what a proper, non-rusted-to-shit rear crossmember looks like, as I can take pics of mine and send them. I've heard that one mud terrain spare tire - when paired with 4 all terrain tires - will cause this exact problem; it was only a matter of time.
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #39  
Old March 10th, 2011, 10:13 PM
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Truck is for sale

------ Follow up post added March 10th, 2011 07:35 PM ------

Yes non matching spare. It is because I dream that one day I will find four new km1s to match.

Not that I am replacing the crossmember bu

------ Follow up post added March 10th, 2011 07:37 PM ------

Sorry hit submit.
What is the process to replace crossmember.
Drop tank?
Cut off old
Weld on new?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #40  
Old March 11th, 2011, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Let me know if you need pics of what a proper, non-rusted-to-shit rear crossmember looks like, as I can take pics of mine and send them. I've heard that one mud terrain spare tire - when paired with 4 all terrain tires - will cause this exact problem; it was only a matter of time.
30 - love: Horsey.
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