Cross Seals by rear main - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 8th, 2009, 10:58 PM
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Nick Vogel
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Cross Seals by rear main

Next project is the slow leak that to the 1 month old defender owner looked like a rear main. Took it the Rover Shop here in Houston and the gentlement told me that it is most likely the cross seals that sit next to the rear main. Told me that it was a matter of dropping the pan and the starter and putting new one in. The oil pan seals needs to be replaced and I would like to replace the oil pan screen and clean out any build up in the pan.

Is this something relatively easy to do or it more envolved than he lead onto?

Nick
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  #2  
Old June 8th, 2009, 11:19 PM
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Easy and extraordinarily common. At some point when I have some time I am going to do a list of top 50 or so common problems with D90s (like the 100 projects for your 911 book or whatever it is called). This would clearly be on the list.
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  #3  
Old June 9th, 2009, 01:42 PM
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Nick Vogel
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Is it as straight forward as droping the starter and the oil pan to get to them? No backing the tranny out?
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  #4  
Old June 9th, 2009, 02:34 PM
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Correct. Just drop the bearing cap thing a ma bob and smear a little right stuff on it and use the new style rubber cross seals (not cork which suck).
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  #5  
Old June 9th, 2009, 02:51 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Easy and extraordinarily common. At some point when I have some time I am going to do a list of top 50 or so common problems with D90s (like the 100 projects for your 911 book or whatever it is called). This would clearly be on the list.
Better wiki it!

Hey, so I am wondering if this is Janey's problem. Let me describe the symptoms.

1. If it just sits there, it really doesn't leak much. So I am guessing as it cools the leak seals.
2. But after she warms up (so long drive) and I pull to a stop in my driveway it literally leaks fast enough to leave a trail along my driveway and then a decent sized puddle.
3. I could be wrong but I don't think it leaks that badly on the road, so maybe I have worn bearings but the output shaft centers itself at high rpms or something?

Think I'd be lucky enough to just have a cross seal leak and not worse?

Any way to determine it is *not* the rear main?

thanks,
charles
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  #6  
Old June 9th, 2009, 03:20 PM
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9/10 it is the pan and or the cross seals. Only seen a truly bad rear main once. YMMV. GET THE UPDATED ONES THAT ARE NOT CORK BASED. BUY GENUINE THEY ARE LIKE $5 PARTS.
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  #7  
Old June 9th, 2009, 11:14 PM
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Nick Vogel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Correct. Just drop the bearing cap thing a ma bob and smear a little right stuff on it and use the new style rubber cross seals (not cork which suck).
Thanks. Not a last main bearing right? When I remove the pan and the starter, will it be easily seen? I cant picture this to save my life.

Nick
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  #8  
Old June 10th, 2009, 12:54 AM
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Yes, it is the rear most main bearing cap. When you pull it out, there will be a 't" shaped seal on each side. You just need to pull it out of there, clean the gasket surfaces and you're good to go. All the tech's I know put a dab of rightstuff in the valley where the seals fit and smear it through the channels. Then install the cross seals and slide the main cap back into place. It is a little difficult to explain, but once you have it in your hand it will become painfully obvious.
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  #9  
Old June 10th, 2009, 07:34 AM
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I thought that the engine or transmission had to be removed in order to get access to the seals in question. Sounds easy enough, starter, oil pan and rear main cap is all that has to be removed, I had this done in my Defender during a recent clutch replacement.
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  #10  
Old June 10th, 2009, 10:41 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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If you do the actual rear main you do have to pull the trans and T-case, but if you just do the cross seals (usually the culprit), you don't need to.
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  #11  
Old June 12th, 2009, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stmpede
If you do the actual rear main you do have to pull the trans and T-case, but if you just do the cross seals (usually the culprit), you don't need to.
How is it even possible to not screw up the r main seal when taking out the rear bearing cap? one small movement of the r main and it will be moved to one side or other and it wont seal with the crank shaft correctly..........and the r main seals always leak and the cam plug and the oil galley plugs as well.............


if it were me id take the trans out and repl the following.....r main seal, cross seals, cam plug with the correct sealing compound, and the oil galley plug taken out and sealed with the same compound. That way you know it done right and it should be good to go for another 30-50k....(at least!)
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  #12  
Old June 12th, 2009, 08:08 AM
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Yup but a huge difference in effort/cost between the two. Can't hurt to try the cross seals before pulling the tranny
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  #13  
Old June 12th, 2009, 11:10 AM
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I have never seen anyone screw up a rear main by doing cross seals and, it is almost always the cross seals.
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  #14  
Old July 2nd, 2009, 01:54 PM
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Nick Vogel
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Ok Im stuck.

I am trying to get the rear main cap bolts loose and I cant get them to move. I tried a big break over bar which provides leverage but not alot of room. Could I use a impact gun?

Thanks, Nick
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  #15  
Old July 2nd, 2009, 04:00 PM
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Sure, no problem using an impact to remove.
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  #16  
Old July 4th, 2009, 03:03 PM
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Nick Vogel
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OK....after 2 days of pb blaster and alot of time alternating bw impact gun and breaker bar they finally gave way this morning.

Next question: How do I remove the main cap? It seems pretty snug in there and cant get it o budge. Is there something else I should remove to get to it to besides the pan and the two bolts? Just to cover my basis, the bolts I removed where just over 3.5 inches long and dont look like the snapped off. Thanks again Ron for all the help, I appreciate the patience with a new rover owner.

Nick
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  #17  
Old July 4th, 2009, 11:41 PM
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It should budge with a soft tap sideways (use a brass drift or a rubber mallet or a block of wood to knock it).

charles
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  #18  
Old July 5th, 2009, 07:54 PM
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Nick Vogel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
It should budge with a soft tap sideways (use a brass drift or a rubber mallet or a block of wood to knock it).

charles
dumb question..... is the 4.0 a 4 bolt main? I am seeing a bolt on each side
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  #19  
Old July 5th, 2009, 11:27 PM
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It is cross bolted. It should just slide out when all the bolts are removed. It has been a while (6 years) since I have done this and it was on an earlier truck so maybe someone else can confirm what all needs to be removed.
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  #20  
Old July 6th, 2009, 11:08 AM
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SO there is a video on youtube of some guy putting togehter the bottom end of a 4.0 block. Seems like there were bolts in the side (cross bolted) so would thats 4 bolts to get the rear cap off?
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