Crankshaft Pilot Bearing Question - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 8th, 2007, 11:58 PM
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Question Crankshaft Pilot Bearing Question

I installed a new clutch, rear main seal, and pilot bushing in the crank. Had flywheel resurfaced... etc.
After driving for about 200 miles I noticed a weird noise coming from inside the bell housing.
I though damn... my clutch must be bad... something?
So I took it apart and it turns out everything is alright with one exception:
The pilot bearing that was in the crank just slipped out. The sides of it are scored a little bit.
The inside of the crank is worn down a bit where the bushing was turning inside.
I guess this was making the noise... when the bushing was binding, turning or both.
I don't know what the heck to do right now, and I don't know how this happened!?!

What should I do?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Oh my engine is a 4.6 from RPI.
Well at least the rear main is not leaking anymore :-)
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  #2  
Old May 9th, 2007, 01:39 AM
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Get a new pilot bushing and see how tight it fits into the crank. If it is a tight fit, install it and put the truck back together. If the new one just slips in you may have worn the pilot hole in the crank (doubtful). 549911 is the part number
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  #3  
Old May 9th, 2007, 02:56 AM
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Get a new one in and glue it to the flywheel with blue loctite. Common problem.
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  #4  
Old May 9th, 2007, 05:31 AM
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Did you even bother to grease the inside of the pilot bush before you put it back in?
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  #5  
Old May 9th, 2007, 06:45 AM
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The current batch of pilot bushings are not made correctly. Land Rover knows of the problem, but because it can be easily cured they did not recall the parts. They are too tight on the gearbox side. We have seen this over the last 6 months or so. We have to machine them so that they are the right size. You can also do this with some sandpaper if needed to get the I.D. correct.
Its a problem with the bearing, not your engine.
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  #6  
Old May 9th, 2007, 08:27 AM
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Wow... Thank you all for the quick responses!
Yes I did put a tiny bit of grease on inside, but not too much that it would dislodge the bearing.
I mean, just a little bit of synth grease to get the input shaft through smoothly.
I probably should have used some special grease, but I used red grease which is synthetic.

The inside of the crank is a little worn, but I had another bearing that I popped out of an old 3.9L which had 100k miles on it, it looked good. It is pretty snug on the end of the crank, I would have to hammer it in.
Maybe I should have someone just machine one for me like .001 over? I don't know how to measure the inside. What material is it? Is it brass?

The bushing actually came from British Atlantic; I don't know if it was Britpart or Genuine... Can't remember. I guess if the old one from the 3.9 is good I can use it. And I know the input shaft fit nicely for a long time on that one!

How can I tell if my crank is screwed up? I am worried about it being out of round in the center. I guess I could have it machined larger and just make a bigger bushing to fit. But this would require me taking the engine out. I will take a picture of the inside of the crank. You can see clearly where the bushing had damaged the inside of the crank. Be right back with that photo.

Follow-up Post:

Here are some photos...
You can easily feel the rut where the old bearing was.
It bored out the hole :-(
I am so pissed... I should have been warned about this by the vendor.
If the hole is perfectly round, then it should not effect performance if the new bushing fits tight right?
Please tell me I don't have to get this machined :-(
But do tell me... well you know what I mean.
Thanks again,
Heath

Follow-up Post:

One more thing...
Could I have a bushing machined that is a tad bit longer... to get more grip?

Follow-up Post:

Just another thought...
What if the input shaft from the trans is not spinning straight?
Could that have caused this?

I can check it with a dial indicator to make sure it spins straight. Will that work?
Is this even a problem...
Damn, I'm thinking too much now.
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  #7  
Old May 9th, 2007, 01:32 PM
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Well technically the mainshaft only has to spin inside the bushing as the bushing dosen't move itself, so mabye glueing or epoxy the bush into the crank will work while greasing the mainshaft. I don't see what could happen.
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  #8  
Old May 9th, 2007, 03:23 PM
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I doubt your crank is damaged. All 3 of the cranks I have here have the lip inside...it keeps the bushing from going too deep. I doubt you could damage a steel crank with a brass bushing if you wanted to. I would measure the ID of a new bushing after installation and use a bit of emery cloth to open it up if it's too tight. I tried all 3 pilot bushings I have on the shelf and all are a slip fit on a gearbox input shaft. I don't know if the fit would tighten up once the bushing is installed in the crankshaft. These could also be correct bushings as they've been on the shelf for a while.
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  #9  
Old May 9th, 2007, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadsiderob
. I tried all 3 pilot bushings I have on the shelf and all are a slip fit on a gearbox input shaft. I don't know if the fit would tighten up once the bushing is installed in the crankshaft. These could also be correct bushings as they've been on the shelf for a while.

The problem is once it is installed in the crank. Emery cloth and a little elbow grease will cure the issue though. People don't see the issue when they use a universal clutch line up tool (unitl they have to wrestle with getting the engine and gearbox to mate), but like Rob has in hand, we use cut off input shaft as our line up tool so it shows the issue. We have had to modify the last 8 or 9 we have done.
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  #10  
Old May 9th, 2007, 07:03 PM
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So true.
Even though the bushing slipped easily over the input shaft while it was out...
I didn't think of the fact that it compresses the id once it is in there!
I did use a universal alignment tool.
It was a bitch to get the trans input shaft and the engine to mate!
I appreciate your help guys...
I think I should be good now!
Time to crack open a brew.
-Heath
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  #11  
Old October 4th, 2009, 08:31 AM
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I'm having pilot bushing issues now too. The bushing was an extremely tight fit into the crank shaft and I had to tap at it with a rubber mallet. Then, when I tried to mate the trans, the input shaft broke pieces off the bushing. Now I have a crumbling bushing that I need to remove. I've never had one be this difficult before. What a PITA.
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  #12  
Old October 10th, 2009, 03:41 PM
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Jim,

I'm pretty sure I remember the busing being defective from the manufacturer. The ID was to small. They said to just sand down the inside, but I ended up using a genuine one from the 3.9.
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  #13  
Old October 13th, 2009, 03:29 PM
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A follow up - the ID of my bushing seemed to be fine, but I had excessive interference between the hole in the crank and the bushing. I wrapped a large drill bit in tape and stuck the bushing over it - that allowed me to evenly sand the bushing down and to round off the front edge a bit to assist installation. I still had to put the bushing in the freezer to get it to slide in.

I removed the damaged bushing using a 19mm A-arm bolt and grease. Two whacks on the bolt with a rubber mallet and hydraulic pressure popped the old bushing out.

After much unnecessary fiddling, the trans bolted up all nice.
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  #14  
Old October 13th, 2009, 03:45 PM
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JimC I see you are picking up some of my "hack" methods.

Good work!
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  #15  
Old October 13th, 2009, 03:47 PM
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Kinda surprised that worked. I just cut up the old one with a chisel, the new one pressed in with some grease, a socket and a hammer. I keep hoping mine dosen't spin around in the crank like what happened to Hans.
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  #16  
Old October 13th, 2009, 03:57 PM
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I was more concerned that the whole scene had the appearance of a bronze alien parasite bursting out of the iron chest of the flywheel.
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