Cranks great just won't start - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 28th, 2012, 07:27 PM
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Cranks great just won't start

Ran it about a month ago and ran perfect. Tried to start it today and engine started for a few seconds but I couldn't keep it running. Now all it does is crank. Fuel relay has been done so I doubt that's it. Any help would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old March 28th, 2012, 10:16 PM
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does it restart ok if you leave it for an hour?
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Old March 29th, 2012, 12:09 AM
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Haven't checked for spark yet cuz I'm by myself unless I can get my 11 year old to crank it for me while I look. Will try that tomorrow after he gets out of school. No, it doesn't start after an hour or two or three.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 03:24 AM
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Start with coil to distro lead and work your way back.. Check the continuity of that wire if you are able that's easy and is was wrong with mine... I did end up loading up the top end with fuel FYI and thinned out my oil to the point of having to due an oil change, but that was because I tried to start it for a long time..
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Old March 29th, 2012, 08:06 AM
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might be a fuel pressue issue. can you hear the fuel pump working when you turn the ignition on? How long since that fuel filter has been serviced? How much fuel was in your tank when it sat? water from condensation in the tank if parked outside for a long time can swell your filter and cutoff flow.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 09:15 AM
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I would assume the fuel pump unless you can hear it buzz. The way you describe it dying sounds like it started on residual fuel pressure and then died off as pressure dropped.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 08:43 PM
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OK I pulled a spark plug and cranked it and its getting a spark. As far as the fuel pump it only buzzes when I turn off the ignition. The short buzzing sound means fuel pump iis OK? Its always done that. No sound when I turn the key on. As far as continuity, I'm not sure what you mean. You talking about checking the OHMs with multitester?
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Old March 29th, 2012, 11:02 PM
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Without a pressure guage could I discon the fuel line after the filter and crank the engine and see if fuel comes out or does it not work that way? Does the fuel pump send fuel when the key is on or when the engine is cranking or both?
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Old March 30th, 2012, 12:39 AM
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What is ideal fuel pressure? Do I break loose the fuel line after the filter and attach the guage there?
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  #10  
Old April 18th, 2012, 10:39 PM
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It could also be the TPS sensor... mine had the same problem a while ago... I replaced the starter, distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition coil, ignition wires and finally the TPS sensor before I nailed it down. On the up side, the NAPA starter I replaced the original with is INCREDIBLE. Sounds like a jet engine when it starts, and only costs 220$ (as compared to 600+ for the Original part.) I also had the old one rebuilt for 65$ by an old guy locally, so it;s sitting in the NAPA box for the next time I have a failure.

Go through the numbers... coil, starter, etc... it should crop up.. The TPS was a new on on me though...
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Old April 18th, 2012, 11:33 PM
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Fuel pump only pumps when engine is cranking after priming the fuel rail ... if you have a spark then that should provide a signal on the low voltage side of the coil to the ECU to signal to start the pump again.

Try disconnecting the TPS and starting the engine ... that should throw a TPS fault ... but the ECU will default the value to 11% and you should start! ( thats of course if its a TPS issue ).

The air idle valve could be at fault ... give it a clean ... the ECU resets it on engine shutdown ready for the next starting cycle ... if it's not working ... that may cause starting issues. Search here for Chevy astro van ... part is about $40 from autozone.
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  #12  
Old April 19th, 2012, 10:43 AM
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1. Did you replace both silver relays?
2. Is there water in the computer?
3. Do you smell fuel?
a. If yes, did you try starting with your foot to the floor on the accelerator?
4. Do you have spark?
a. If yes, did you try unplugging the MAF wires?

Now you are down to probably finding out why it does not have fuel or spark.
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Old January 29th, 2014, 04:11 PM
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OK same thing is happening to me. I have a list of things I've checked by now, excluding (I believe) only the Idle Air Control Valve - IACV - thinking I'll replace that next as previously I'd only cleaned it up. Basically, a few months ago the truck didn't want to start when it had down-poured. It did start after a few tries though. So, I went to replace the OEM distributor rotor and distributor cap as preventative maintenance, and broke the distributor in the process. Bought a new Mallory system (distributor, coil, spark plug wires, etc.) and it worked great for a few weeks. I still had some issues when accellerating through first (occassional bogging down), and had figured I'd adjust the vacuum advance. No real change. Drove truck up to Howard's for Guy Fawkes, then on the way back I went through one of those spray your own car washes, kept the car running, and washed down the frame and never opened the hood to spray the engine down or anything as it was still pretty clean in there. I usually fill up the tank before parking the truck in the garage but didn't have time to this time. Tank was at about 1/4 tank. Went back a week later and the truck wouldn't start. Cranks but then sounded like it'd flood.

Checked spark and that was fine


Anyway, Jason came out a week later, thinking fuel pump, turned it on manually using ECU Mate, and it started. Could have just been a fluke though. Drove it out to NJ, then next day no start again. Try ECU Mate...no luck this time.


Had truck towed to Jarek's where we replaced fuel pump relay, spark plugs, ignition module, fuel filter, and air cleaner intake hose after it started disintegrating.

Checked fuel pressure at the fuel filter, and that was OK. Put in different ECU, and same result. Checked vacuum on fuel pressure regulator and that passed. Cleaned IACV. Checked rollover switch. Checked all fuses, including main ones under hood.

Last time truck started, we had sprayed Ether in the plenum with the rollover switch unplugged, and with the Mallory distributor voltage spike filter removed, and the truck started.

Immediately plugged switch back in for it to run on fuel (we had removed the spark plugs so many times due to flooding that this was the best way we had seen to not allow truck to flood). Get truck back to my garage, and it dies again. Tried to start again this past weekend with no luck. Also, listen to the first time I went to crank it. It sounds like when I'd remove all the spark plugs and crank to get the fuel out...why would it make that noise?? Second time cranking it starts for a second but dies immediately, then it's flooded.

Hoping just IACV at this point but additional thoughts welcome!
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Old January 29th, 2014, 04:41 PM
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I failed to see what engine you have but I just had to deal with the exact thing in my D1. It ended up being melted wiring on my Crank Position Senor. Changed it out and it ran fine.
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Old January 29th, 2014, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Ncrover725 View Post
I failed to see what engine you have but I just had to deal with the exact thing in my D1. It ended up being melted wiring on my Crank Position Senor. Changed it out and it ran fine.
No CPS on a 94/95 d90.
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Old January 29th, 2014, 06:03 PM
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You are obviously getting fuel. To me, this sounds like you are not getting spark on one or multiple cylinders. I'm guessing that you checked spark from the coil by looking at one plug, which seems to be working ok. Have you already checked the other plugs and plug wires?
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Old January 29th, 2014, 06:07 PM
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That last video sounds like your starter is not engaging into the flywheel. Mine did that occasionally before it failed completely.

FYI if you think you have flooded it, instead of removing the spark plugs, you can just unplug the inertia switch and floor it while cranking. That should clear out any unburnt fuel.

------ Follow up post added January 29th, 2014 06:11 PM ------

Could your fuel rail be rusted out internally causing injectors to be stuck open? IIRC 14CUX trucks had problems with rusting fuel rails.
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Old January 30th, 2014, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
That last video sounds like your starter is not engaging into the flywheel. Mine did that occasionally before it failed completely. FYI if you think you have flooded it, instead of removing the spark plugs, you can just unplug the inertia switch and floor it while cranking. That should clear out any unburnt fuel. ------ Follow up post added January 29th, 2014 06:11 PM ------ Could your fuel rail be rusted out internally causing injectors to be stuck open? IIRC 14CUX trucks had problems with rusting fuel rails.
The truck starts mad runs occasionally perfectly ... And then has these periods of not starting.

Because they managed to start with ether I'm thinking that the wrong air fuel mix is present for starting and that would be influenced by the IACV being stuck.

Then problem is intermittent in nature.
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  #19  
Old January 30th, 2014, 08:29 AM
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The runaway condition is possibly due to the IACV being WFO. Bypass air is entering the plenum and the engine is getting a lot of air. However, because that air is not being monitored by the MAS, the ECU is not fueling the mixture properly. The ECU is getting a signal from the IACV that it is open, so it is allowing the bandwidth of the injectors to be full on.
The IACV opens during deceleration to allow bypass air into the plenum to prevent a stall condition when the vehicle is moving but the TPS sensor says the wellington is off the pedal.
Starting may be difficult because the rich warm-up mixture is now extra lean. This is especially the case in the cold where the air is more dense but the mixture is now very thin. You have spark, but not enough volatile emulsion to light a fire. Spraying ether in the plenum richens the mixture enough that the engine fires. Then the (sensed) WFO condition engages a runaway.
Just as a test, plug the air pipe (both ends) to the IACV, and try to start. If it goes, then you've nailed the problem,
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  #20  
Old January 30th, 2014, 08:39 AM
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Next time it does this spray some starter fluid in and crank it.
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