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  #1  
Old May 19th, 2016, 12:02 AM
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Marcus Whitaker
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Cracked turbo

So I took my defender to the local shop to have them install a new turbo to replace my old one that was whining badly.

The install was tricky as the original banjo bolt wouldn't fit the new one and they ended up suggesting tapping a new thread and making their own banjo bolt. I got the truck back on Monday and it was fine apart from a small oil leak coming down the oil return line. I ran it around with no trouble save this leak for 2 days.

I went back to the shop today to pick up my other vehicle that I'd left outside and asked them about the oil leak. The tech said that it was leaking from the new banjo bolt and asked me to leave it with him for the afternoon, he'd fix it and I could pick it up later.

I then got a phone call saying the turbo housing was cracked and that it must have been faulty metallurgy. You can see the crack clearly if you zoom in to the right of the bolt. To me its seems pretty obvious that they overtightened the bolt this afternoon in an effort to stop the slight leak.

I didn't realize how bad the leak was and as I needed to show it to a potential buyer I drove it away to show the guy. It drove fine but when I stopped it was smoking badly and was leaving a trail of oil behind.

So I have two questions:

1. Can this crack be welded or JB welded? (The shop claims this to be possible)

2. Is the shop liable for this? I would struggle to prove it definitely wasn't a faulty turbo (i bought from ebay from the UK) but it sure wasn't cracked this morning before they got hold of it and it sure is now.

Any thoughts much appreciated.
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  #2  
Old May 19th, 2016, 07:34 AM
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John B.
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I can't see it in the picture but I assume the bearing housing is cracked. You would need a new housing. You would not be able to weld it and epoxy would fail.
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  #3  
Old May 19th, 2016, 07:47 AM
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Matthew
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Oof what a bummer, I can see a hairline Crack next to the stiffening rib. And like. John says, any glue/epoxy would probably fail overtime.

I'd ask them to replace it on thier dime and just get the turbo cartridge from ebay
UK or something.

Is it 200 or 300 TDI, defender or disco engine?
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  #4  
Old May 19th, 2016, 08:15 AM
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Is that a genuine Garrett CHRA?
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  #5  
Old May 19th, 2016, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Is it 200 or 300 TDI, defender or disco engine?
Looks like a TD.
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  #6  
Old May 19th, 2016, 08:59 AM
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Craig
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I have a turbo housing lying around - Garrett T25 - for 200TDi. If that could help you out?
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  #7  
Old May 19th, 2016, 09:02 AM
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Michael Sword
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Already sent Marcus a PM, I've got the turbo off my 2.5TD that is a year old with like 5k miles on it. Have yet to hear from him...
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  #8  
Old May 19th, 2016, 09:54 AM
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Marcus Whitaker
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Wow everyone, I was so pissed off when I turned in last night and now look what the morning brings. You guys are awesome.

Thanks for the PM Mike.

The shop seem reluctant to accept responsibility on this. Anyone got any legal ideas? I could get all wildman on them but I'm not as up for a scrap as I used to be.
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  #9  
Old May 19th, 2016, 10:04 AM
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IMO.... Just go elsewhere and let others know not to use them.
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  #10  
Old May 19th, 2016, 10:05 AM
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Chris
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It's hard to believe that they could crack a housing.
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  #11  
Old May 19th, 2016, 10:12 AM
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Go back and ask them how much torque they used and gauge their body language for signs of truth.
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  #12  
Old May 19th, 2016, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MW469 View Post
The shop seem reluctant to accept responsibility on this. Anyone got any legal ideas? I could get all wildman on them but I'm not as up for a scrap as I used to be.
Is this a genuine Garrett CHRA? Have you tried calling Garrett?
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  #13  
Old May 19th, 2016, 10:59 AM
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I agree with Clay- I think you kida have to call them out on this.

Banjo bolt wouldnt fit?
We have to retap it to get ours to fit?
Now it's cracked and leaks oil there BUT it's because of faulty metallurgy?

Really??
Ask them how that sounds when they hear it!?



.
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  #14  
Old May 19th, 2016, 11:19 AM
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I see the issue as a rig up.
It could be metallurgy and or casting flaw could be the issue or it could be the bolt was over tightened.
The crush washers if copper will show signs of being over tightened if you remove the bolt.
I would also examine the bolt for correctness, ie is there enough threads, was it drilled/tapped straight and properly, is the head square, and so on.
If the hole were drilled/tapped at even a slight angle, then no amount to banjo bolt torque will seal the bolt against the washers and housing.
If there is no "smoking gun", then John's advice is best practice, let it go and take your business elsewhere with the following caveat.
At a minimum ask for a refund of their sub standard work when you explain that the rig up they did is now preventing you from going back to the manufacturer for a refund for defective metallurgy.
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  #15  
Old May 19th, 2016, 11:20 AM
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Frank Rafka
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There are 2 sides to every story and can give input as the owner of the shop called me BEFORE they install the USED Air research turbo that Marcus bought off EBAY.
Here's what I was told and can attest too:
As Marcus was getting the truck ready to be sold, he bought the truck into the shop to have some work done, including replacing the turbo. Mike, the owner of the shop had his tech look at it and recommended NOT TO REPLACE THE TUBRO, as the one on the truck was working. On top of that, he had another tech from the diesel repair next door take a look at it and found no end play in the rotating assemble and also said the same thing. Doesn't need to be replaced. He asked me to give my .02 cents and after talking with both techs agreed, there's no running tissues and it's producing proper boost.
Marcus asked to replace it and Mike told him that it was a USED part and there's no warranty for it.

While installing the USED turbo, found it did not come with a banjo bolt and fittings. Simple solution, use the bolt off the old turbo, right, WRONG! The bolt is some strange size. this threw up a big warning flag as to what kind of turbo is this. At this point Mike called me and i bought down banjo bolts for both a Garret T-25 and T-28, neither fit. Several bolts were tried to see if we could find the proper size to get a proper banjo bolt:
M10x1.0
M10x1.25
M10x1.50
M11x1.0
M11x.1.25
M12x1.0
7-16x20nf
7-16x24nf
3-8x24nf

None of these fit, so that's when it was decided to tap the hole, this was done, truck was ran and it was NOT leaking when it left the shop. If tapping a hole cracked it, then more than likely it was fucked up and that's why it was put on EBAY.

So that's the other side, he bought a cheap used part and asked to have it installed, it did not come complete and they tried to solve the problem.

Legal advice, seriously

Ask any shop owner what their policy is when installing USED PARTS, especially after recommending NOT to replace a working part…So don't throw the shop under bus for doing why the customer asked for

------ Follow up post added May 19th, 2016 11:22 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Is that a genuine Garrett CHRA?
Not a Garret turbo…and it was bought used off EBAY, not from a distributor

------ Follow up post added May 19th, 2016 11:23 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
I agree with Clay- I think you kida have to call them out on this.

Banjo bolt wouldnt fit?
We have to retap it to get ours to fit?
Now it's cracked and leaks oil there BUT it's because of faulty metallurgy?

Really??
Ask them how that sounds when they hear it!?



.
yep…could not find a banjo bolt to fit…I was there

------ Follow up post added May 19th, 2016 11:24 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
I see the issue as a rig up.
It could be metallurgy and or casting flaw could be the issue or it could be the bolt was over tightened.
The crush washers if copper will show signs of being over tightened if you remove the bolt.
I would also examine the bolt for correctness, ie is there enough threads, was it drilled properly, is the head square, and so on.
If there is no "smoking gun", then John's advice is best practice, let it go and take your business elsewhere with the following caveat.
At a minimum ask for a refund when you explain that the rig up they did is now preventing you from going back to the manufacturer.
There was no going back because it was a USED PART they didn't re-drill the hole, just used a starter tap to cut new threads.

nice and big to reinforce that fact...
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  #16  
Old May 19th, 2016, 11:41 AM
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LOL- what a shit-show...


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  #17  
Old May 19th, 2016, 11:49 AM
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If this is the truth why swap out a serviceable turbo for an unknown turbo especially since the truck is for sale? Something isn't adding up.
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  #18  
Old May 19th, 2016, 11:50 AM
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Wow. More Defender drama. I'm out.
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  #19  
Old May 19th, 2016, 11:56 AM
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There you go. The OP clearly said "new turbo"..... Silly. I'm assuming the shop also clearly said there would be no warranty on the work before installing a customer supplied used part.

Just pay them to put the original turbo back on.
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  #20  
Old May 19th, 2016, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
If this is the truth why swap out a serviceable turbo for an unknown turbo especially since the truck is for sale? Something isn't adding up.
He came to the shop with the part and asked to have it installed, and had the work done even after it was recommended by 2 different techs, one from a shop not affiliated, to NOT replace the turbo
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