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  #41  
Old May 20th, 2016, 07:53 AM
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Robert Davis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Anyone could make a mistake...
Welcome to being responsible and accountable for your own misgivings... for, well, everything above (5)... better man up on this one before Star Trek Scotty puts the whole voyage thread into damage control.
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Originally Posted by MW469 View Post
Starting this thread including any more than a request for advice about the JB and arc weld options offered as repair options by the shop was a mistake. Including the details relating to personal dealings the the shop was a mistake.
Agreed.
But
You're allowed to make a mistake.
Good people make mistakes.
Sorry it played out this way, but it is what it is.
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  #42  
Old May 21st, 2016, 11:41 AM
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Marcus Whitaker
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For those of you still interested.
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  #43  
Old May 21st, 2016, 12:42 PM
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Matthew
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Don't give a shit about the Internet drama.

Most likely if it wasn't already cracked when they tapped it for the new bolt they probably didn't drill it to size first. They probably just ran the tap through it,this would make for really shallow threads if they were going up in size consideribly. The shallow threads would be extra tight and could cause this type of Crack.

Admittedly I've done something similar when drilling out a broken bleeder on a motorcycle caliper. I drilled it then tapped but the tap was just a touch to big for the hole that I drilled. When I put in the new bleeder the collar cracked.

I ended up just welding the Crack shut and RE tapping again. Has held for years, but this was aluminum not cast iron



Edit: since this housing is already Fucked, I'd probably just try to weld it and see what happens
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  #44  
Old May 21st, 2016, 01:13 PM
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Not implying it here, but sometime shops do mess up. Get everything in writing. Or circle back with email confirming your understanding if an oral agreement. Last month during a benign stuffing box to PSS conversion, the boat yard used the transmission output flange as a press to separate the propshaft flange from the propshaft ... a big no no, bending the flange. Bent output flange = no ability to align the motor and propshaft. Best we could do was 0.007" (0.002" spec) with the resulting vibration. The kicker is the output flange is integral to the transmission, transmission bolts accessed from inside the bell housing = removing the diesel to separate the transmission. Now talking sourcing a hard to find rebuilt ZF box and a several grand project which started as a 2-hr job because the mechanic didn't have the proper $40 tool. Input from ZF and a boat forum similar to D-Source helped me position my case in writing to the yard. The yard, that was a steadfast no taking the position $hit happens, quickly changed course and is having their insurance pick up the tab.
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  #45  
Old May 21st, 2016, 02:07 PM
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Marcus Whitaker
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Here's the washers and fabricated banjo bolt.
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  #46  
Old May 21st, 2016, 02:40 PM
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Marcus Whitaker
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Thanks for the info guys. I'm keeping a bit more stum this time. Didn't enjoy getting my arse kicked around before.
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  #47  
Old May 21st, 2016, 10:22 PM
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Marcus Whitaker
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Just got it off for a closer inspection. How does this look? Could the off center drilling cause it? The threads look pretty rough too.
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  #48  
Old May 21st, 2016, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MW469 View Post

I don't know any of you guys personally and I'm not sure if you know any of each other off the forum but I do know Frank and Mike.

I know a bunch of these guys in real life.... they're all jerks, just like Frank.


And FWIW, I think the off-center tap job and the over tightening probably did cause the crack because it looks to be in the thinnest wall.
But it was a crap-part to start with and you own it now unfortunately.


.
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