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Old February 2nd, 2005, 12:04 AM
mattarm's Avatar
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1993 D110
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Corrosion repair ideas

I am in the process of restoring my 93 NAS 110 Daily driver and wanted to solicit some feedback/ideas.


1. Is there any (structural) reason why I could not remove the external cage, internal roll bar and rear seat support bars AND still continue to drive the vehicle with these items removed? I imagine that by the time I get all parts removed, cleaned/corrected and either powder coated or painted and reassembled that several weeks could pass.

2. Same question goes for all 5 doors

3. Can anyone comment on the level of effort/steps to remove the top and upper rear body on a 110? The 110 is suffering from the common rust runs around the body capping which will need to be cleaned up and potentially replaced and I will need to disassemble most of the vehicle in the process as I fear I may have some bulkhead repair as well.

Budget would prevent me from tackling all jobs at once, so I am trying to develop a plan that will reduce the amount of rework. I am waiting for warmer weather to begin, but would like to start to put together a plan and line up any parts that will be needed.

Thanks in advance for any information,


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Old February 2nd, 2005, 12:43 AM
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Hans Haase
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The external cage is a US only thing to meet rollover requirements, most UK defenders don't have the external cages. While the vehicle would TECNICALLY be drivable, I would recommend limiting it to the bare minimum amount of time possible. You would be loosing a great deal of structural support in case of an accident. I'd also check the local laws about having the doors installed, don't need to be getting hurt or a ticket in the process. However, once the trim is off the top should come off fairly easily as long as you have enough manpower around to lift it off.

You could probably get the body coping prepped and painted before removing the top, and I would suspect that the bulkhead work can be done without removing the cage. It shouldn't be too hard to do in stages at all, just a matter of planning. I suspect though that the body isn't painted under the edging at all, so be prepared for that possibility.


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Old February 2nd, 2005, 01:20 AM
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1. No. You will be fine. Even in an accident, most likely
2. No. You will be fine.
3. No. I don't know. But on a 90 it is not too bad.
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Old February 2nd, 2005, 02:43 AM
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Pull the cage. No biggy just don't roll You can drive a 110 without door, though stuff will fall out.

Here is what I would do:

1. Bulkhead. Just spray the interior UPPER and in the pillars with waxyoil or similar.
2. Doors. Who cares? Spray the insides of the steel parts and let them rust away and replace when absolutely necessary. It cannot really spread and they are easy to replace. I had considered buying new doors and pulling the skin off, galvanizing the frames (like series I land rovers) and then reassembling but that is too much work and would probably warp a bit and cause fit issues.
3. T-pieces are the big issue in my mind. Not only are they somewhat structural and a pain to replace, the worst bit is they eat the aluminium. I would buy new ones ($200 a pop) and galvanize them and they sway them in with plenty of silicone sealer between the steel and the aluminium. Yes, galvy steel and alum do not generally react galvanically, but why take chances. Otherwise, pump some waxyoil in the bottoms where crap and water collect and they should be fine.
4. Cappings. Again, remove and replace with galvanizing.

The spray the crap out of the frame with waxyoil. Make sure to take down the T-case crossmember and repair the rust where it meets the frame.
*not legal advice*
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Old February 2nd, 2005, 08:48 AM
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Matt, if you check my project pics, I removed all the capping from my truck. it was then sandblasted,galvinized then painted with self etching primer and paint. THen they were put back on the truck and the rest of the body painted. Also, under the capping, the body should be sanded, primed and painted too. It will then last for ever.

As for the cage, it will be fine without it. IT is not neccecary for structural integrity
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Old February 2nd, 2005, 10:09 AM
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David Shechter
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I can't help with the other questions but the only reason the NAS have roll bars was to meet US safety standards at the time of induction. Apparently if the vehicle is in an accident the doors may open. The roll bar was designed to prevent this. Like Hans said this pretty much is only a US thing. Driving should be fine, in fact when you take yours off you'll notice it barley even makes contact with the body of the vehicle. For the most part it is bolted to itself and the frame, under those plates are big ugly gaping holes.
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Old February 2nd, 2005, 10:18 AM
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