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  #1  
Old June 14th, 2009, 12:55 PM
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Cooling bubble?

Ive had the radiator rodded and flow tested, Ive drained the block and flushed it with some cooling system flush from Prestone. I let the truck run and heater blow, it was fine hot heat VDO indicated 190 Degrees. I shut down let it cool a few hours. I drained that all out and was going to flush again to get any residual out before I put in coolant. Wash rinse repeat. Refilled it with straight distilled water truck heats up 190, no heat to the cab. I take thermostat out put it on the stove appears to start opening around 190 degrees. I leave it out put everything back together less the thermostat, still truck warms up and no heat. I do notice that I am not getting the nice "swirl" in the radiator. I wonder if something has gotten stopped up, or is it likely to be a big air bubble in the block?
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  #2  
Old June 14th, 2009, 03:22 PM
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Drove around the block gauge shot up to 190, heat started working and immediately cooled down to 160 range.
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Old June 14th, 2009, 04:12 PM
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Big air bubble. I find only high rpm gets the bubble out, even if you fill it from the top port on the P/S.
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Old June 14th, 2009, 06:30 PM
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I think there must still be some air in there. It ran up to 220 with no thermostat, I shut it down and let it cool. I jacked the front up pretty high with the heater fill plug and radiator plug out and let it sit for a while. I let it back down and put about a pint in hopefully Ive got it straight. Its that or it needs a head gasket or worse. 75k miles I was thinking it would go a little longer.
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Old June 15th, 2009, 06:59 AM
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So. I drove about 70 miles last night ran the truck 70-75 it sat in the middle of 160 and 180, no thermostat straight water and water wetter. I get into town and the gauge climbs up to 185ish. Ive put 3 fan clutches in this thing I never hear it engage once the truck has been running. Is it time to start getting parts together for a very least a head job or worse? I havent seen any coolant, I guess a compression test and hydrocarbon sniff are in order. I would think under no circumstance the truck should get that hot. It also gets warm when it sits and idles.
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Old June 15th, 2009, 09:11 AM
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185 is not "that hot" ???
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  #7  
Old June 15th, 2009, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
Ive put 3 fan clutches in this thing I never hear it engage once the truck has been running. Is it time to start getting parts together for a very least a head job or worse? I havent seen any coolant, I guess a compression test and hydrocarbon sniff are in order. I would think under no circumstance the truck should get that hot. It also gets warm when it sits and idles.
Did you replace the temp sensor next to the thermostat? I think that is the one that tells the fan to turn on...
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  #8  
Old June 15th, 2009, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Big air bubble. I find only high rpm gets the bubble out, even if you fill it from the top port on the P/S.

You are supposed to fill the cooling system by the port on the radiator (RH side of vehicle). Leave the port on the RH side of the engine open and fill via the radiator port until you get coolant coming out of the heater feed pipe port, then close both.
If you do it that way, no air bubble.
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Old June 15th, 2009, 03:17 PM
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Thanks!

I fill at the radiator and then top up at the top port on the P/S and I still get a bubble in the heater core. I will try your way next time which reminds me I have to order some brass plugs before I do.

Ron
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  #10  
Old June 15th, 2009, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14
185 is not "that hot" ???

I know but with no thermostat etc I think it is on the hot side, it was headed towards 190.

I got the air out after my initial post then filled it Mikes way. No issues with that. I took my time and I am almost positive there is no air in the cooling system.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Thanks!

I fill at the radiator and then top up at the top port on the P/S and I still get a bubble in the heater core. I will try your way next time which reminds me I have to order some brass plugs before I do.

Ron

Brass plugs are a must ask me how I know.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
You are supposed to fill the cooling system by the port on the radiator (RH side of vehicle). Leave the port on the RH side of the engine open and fill via the radiator port until you get coolant coming out of the heater feed pipe port, then close both.
If you do it that way, no air bubble.

This is not that easy to do, the Rad is lower than the "fill port" and heater core? I was skeptical at first but it magically works.
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Old June 15th, 2009, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
I know but with no thermostat etc I think it is on the hot side, it was headed towards 190.
No sir, thermostat or not that is not "too hot" or anywhere near it.
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Old June 15th, 2009, 03:41 PM
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I've also seen where the top hose is higher than the rad and pushing down on the top hose will magically make the level drop several inches. refill again etc etc


Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
I know but with no thermostat etc I think it is on the hot side, it was headed towards 190.

I got the air out after my initial post then filled it Mikes way. No issues with that. I took my time and I am almost positive there is no air in the cooling system.

Follow-up Post:




Brass plugs are a must ask me how I know.

Follow-up Post:




This is not that easy to do, the Rad is lower than the "fill port" and heater core? I was skeptical at first but it magically works.
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  #13  
Old June 15th, 2009, 03:49 PM
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I use the upper rad hose as a pump too which seems to help. I have always been successful in bleeding them even with my apparently wrong method.
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  #14  
Old June 15th, 2009, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14
No sir, thermostat or not that is not "too hot" or anywhere near it.

So much opinions out there. Ive read that 190 is too hot. Ive read 220 is time to be concerned.
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Old June 15th, 2009, 07:26 PM
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Here is the deal, if you were honestly heating, and waited till you saw 230 or so, the headgaskets more than likely would still fine, but once you pull off the side of the road and shut down, the temp will spike to 260-280 (maybe more) and thats when things start warping and those old gaskets kick the bucket.

Phil, no offense but you are a worrywart, if you got in your truck and it was perfect, you would find something wrong and stress about it until it actually broke. Put a thermostat back in that truck and relax a little.
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  #16  
Old June 15th, 2009, 08:01 PM
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I run my D90 at 195. I have a high-flow 195 degree thermostat in it, and relay my Flexalites off a 200 degree fan switch.

Before I had this set-up I ran the stock stuff. I'd see a temperature spike coming off the highway to a complete stop, it'd spike to about 213-220, and then drop right back down to a more acceptable range.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that I don't think you have anything to worry about.
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  #17  
Old June 16th, 2009, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14
Here is the deal, if you were honestly heating, and waited till you saw 230 or so, the headgaskets more than likely would still fine, but once you pull off the side of the road and shut down, the temp will spike to 260-280 (maybe more) and thats when things start warping and those old gaskets kick the bucket.

Phil, no offense but you are a worrywart, if you got in your truck and it was perfect, you would find something wrong and stress about it until it actually broke. Put a thermostat back in that truck and relax a little.

Ill let you drive it, Im not a worrywart. Its possessed.
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Old June 16th, 2009, 11:34 AM
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This may sound completely stupid, but can someone give me the ruff translation to the gauge on the dash and degrees? Mine has always ran just shy of the middle.... so that is what in degrees?

Is there a replacement gauge that gives a degree indicator?
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  #19  
Old June 16th, 2009, 11:39 AM
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http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ght=VDO+vision for your gauge swap.

That dash gauge probally reads anywhere from 185-220 as normal.
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  #20  
Old June 16th, 2009, 11:50 AM
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That is why I put in a VDO temp. guage with numbers on it, that and the signal conditioner box thingy on the NAS 110s.

My truck runs 185 in the spring and 190-195 in the heat of the summer.
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