Coolant leak at the 300Tdi "P" gasket - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 14th, 2014, 12:15 AM
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Coolant leak at the 300Tdi "P" gasket

Well it looks as though my "P" gasket is leaking. Ever since I changed over to (1.) Zerex G05 HOAT coolant, and (2.) started running a 203F thermostat, I've been getting some weeping at a couple of gaskets. Don't know if these problems are related to the hotter T-stat or just age. With this thermostat, the hoses are definitely "rigid" like on a gas engine and it is running right at 203F.

The coolant tank too developed a small leak in the bottom of the tank where the inner connecting "top to bottom" pillar is located.

I know both the tank and "P" gasket are prone to failure. My engine is closing in on 13 years of service and 150K miles.

Any pointers or suggestions about replacing the "P" gasket ?
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  #2  
Old January 14th, 2014, 01:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
Well it looks as though my "P" gasket is leaking.

Any pointers or suggestions about replacing the "P" gasket ?
Very doable...make sure you pick up a new Land Rover P Gasket and a water pump gasket. I replaced my Water Pump at the same time as it is way easier will doing the P Gasket and everything is off. Just follow the manuals instructions.

I used a small amount of "Right Stuff" to seat the P gasket prior to reassembly, then carefully start torquing everything back up. Take great care not to over-torque the belt tensioner as the aluminum threads are notorious to get stripped...don't ask me how I know this...
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Old January 14th, 2014, 05:33 AM
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This may be useful: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f73/30...nt-171383.html
Why are you running 203F (95C)?. The thermostat is supposed to be fully open at 88C and every US made thermostat I've tested starts to open at the listed temp. UK thermostats appear to list the temp when they are fully open.
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Old January 14th, 2014, 04:04 PM
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There are several reason for experimenting with a hotter T-stat. I had to build these thermostats, I have a 197F, a 203F, and a 205F high flow. The high flow allows 40% more coolant through the T-stat than the standard design. The engine warms faster, mine always hung around 185F, and when I'd open the cap on the tank there was very little pressure liberated. Putting a board or muff in front of the radiatior did noting to get the engine to run hotter or warm up faster. Our '06 Jeep CRD (2.8 VM diesel) even has a Viscous water heating device (MB design), run by a belt, to assist in getting the engine to warm up faster & stay warm. Cavitation can eat holes in the cyl walls (coolant side) IF the pressure in the system is not high enough to the keep the coolant from boiling at this contact point. Better fuel burn and lower emissions too. 10F is not that great of an increase and other modern diesels are using as hot as 215F thermostats. With this 203F, the hoses are rigid, just like on a gas engine. Diesels inherently are cold running anyway. a running a little hotter has increased my mileage by 2mpg. I've posted elsewhere about these thermostats here on the forum.
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Old January 14th, 2014, 04:09 PM
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Hey Dennis!
Are you going to use grease again on the gasket or go hylomar?
I assume you are going with the metal one?
Pete
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Old January 14th, 2014, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
The thermostat is supposed to be fully open at 88C....
The way I read the manuals for the TDIs, is that they start to open at 88 C.
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Old January 14th, 2014, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canol109 View Post
Very doable...make sure you pick up a new Land Rover P Gasket and a water pump gasket. I replaced my Water Pump at the same time as it is way easier will doing the P Gasket and everything is off. Just follow the manuals instructions.

I used a small amount of "Right Stuff" to seat the P gasket prior to reassembly, then carefully start torquing everything back up. Take great care not to over-torque the belt tensioner as the aluminum threads are notorious to get stripped...don't ask me how I know this...
x2...only difference was when I did mine I used Hylomar at the p-gasket instead of Right Stuff.
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Old January 14th, 2014, 07:09 PM
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There seems to be some pros and cons on metal, paper, and original LR gasket. What's the best option and why ??
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Old January 14th, 2014, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
There seems to be some pros and cons on metal, paper, and original LR gasket. What's the best option and why ??
The p-gasket I got from George @ RDS was the metal-ish type, worked great for me for the 20K+ I put on it so far after that...
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Old January 14th, 2014, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
There seems to be some pros and cons on metal, paper, and original LR gasket. What's the best option and why ??
I could be wrong here but I believe the design of the gasket changed. I used the metal (tin?) type with the raised inner edge embossed. I don't think they come any other way now. I always try to use Genuine parts when I can, although some items can be the same from Bearmach and Britpart.
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Old January 15th, 2014, 04:44 PM
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My advice would be the metal gasket type. Put hondabond or yamabond light layer on the engine block and the flange for the waterpump housing. Also measure and replace the long bolts to longer versions. These bolts were to short from the factory and do not do their job well. I also put sealer on the bolts when installing.
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Old January 15th, 2014, 04:56 PM
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My advice would be the metal gasket type. Put hondabond or yamabond light layer on the engine block and the flange for the waterpump housing. Also measure and replace the long bolts to longer versions. These bolts were to short from the factory and do not do their job well. I also put sealer on the bolts when installing.
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Old January 16th, 2014, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
Hey Dennis!
Are you going to use grease again on the gasket or go hylomar?
I assume you are going with the metal one?
Pete
Well I pulled out my spare gasket today not remembering if it was paper or metal, it's metal so I'll be using what Pendy recommended.
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Old January 16th, 2014, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
There are several reason for experimenting with a hotter T-stat.
snip
running a little hotter has increased my mileage by 2mpg. I've posted elsewhere about these thermostats here on the forum.
I'm not sure how much you can base temp choice on other engines. My Perkins 4.203 specs an 82C
That said, as long as it's working for you and you haven't experienced any overheating issues, that's what really matters. Plus, being all cast iron, the Tdi's are going to be more forgiving of any overheating than the V8's.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The way I read the manuals for the TDIs, is that they start to open at 88 C.
Yeah, I've noticed the discrepancy. For other thermostats Rover clearly says fully open at 88 and I can't think of why some 88 thermostats would be fully open at 88 and others start to open at 88.
On the other hand, Land Rover has done stranger things.
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Old January 16th, 2014, 07:36 AM
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They also have engines with 82 C thermostats. The TD5 is fully open at 96. Different engines, different specs.
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Old January 16th, 2014, 08:27 PM
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Not saying they don't have different temp thermostats. I'm saying it wouldn't make sense to have one 88C thermostat that is fully open at 88 and another 88C that starts to open at 88. It's not like the thermostats of that period were actually Land Rover specific.
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Old January 16th, 2014, 09:40 PM
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Motorad brand are the thermostats I am using by recombining parts to obtain the desired temperatures I'm looking for.

Their literature states that theirs are fully open at the rated temperature + or - 2 F, which is still quite a bit in my assessment for what I am doing. This is why I first changed and verified my coolant gauge (VDO) to be accurate.
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