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  #1  
Old March 20th, 2011, 07:21 PM
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Michael Ullman
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coolant leak

My truck got pretty hot the other day for a few seconds. I was able to get her pulled over right away. I noticed she was low on coolant so I topped her off and all was good. But I could smell antifreeze. Thought I had spilled.

Anyway was looking for the leak in my clutch today and saw this coolant sitting on top of the engine. Any thought as to what might be the problem?

Should mention that she is parked on a hill so I assume that is why it is back there. Does the water pump leak up on top like that?

Thanks in advance,
Michael
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My Rover doesn’t leak oil, she is marking her territory.
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  #2  
Old March 20th, 2011, 08:48 PM
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Thumbs up

Start with the easy culprits:
Check all coolant hoses running in/out of the upper intake...hoses going to the heater box and the hoses that connect to the intake plennum near the butterfly valve...

Good luck...

Cheers...
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  #3  
Old March 20th, 2011, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Start with the easy culprits:
Check all coolant hoses running in/out of the upper intake...hoses going to the heater box and the hoses that connect to the intake plennum near the butterfly valve...

Good luck...

Cheers...
Just got in from doing all that. Did not see where it is leaking but it apears to be somwhere underneath the plennum. maybe on the back side of the thermastat housing?
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  #4  
Old March 21st, 2011, 09:21 AM
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Probably the intake manifold end seals. This was my issue
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  #5  
Old March 21st, 2011, 11:44 AM
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I had the very same leak on my RRC. You were parked on a hill facing up right? It is probably leaking from the thermostat housing like mine. Park it on the hill again and start the truck up and let it run till warm/thermostat opens to let flow go through. Have someone step on the gas while you look at the thermostat housing. You may see coolant leak out.
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  #6  
Old March 22nd, 2011, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunmaker View Post
Just got in from doing all that. Did not see where it is leaking but it apears to be somwhere underneath the plennum. maybe on the back side of the thermastat housing?
Make sure the bolts that hold the intake manifold down are properly torqued - if they're loose, then coolant can get into the valley gasket. You may be in for a new gasket if this is the case, though.

Travis
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 08:23 PM
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Okay found the leak. The coolant is leaking very slowly between the head and the block. Also looks like it is leaking out of the bolt a little but not much. A guy that works near by is a mechanic and he came over and put it under pressure. It barley lost any pressure over a 20 minute period but we were able to find where it was weeping.

He suggested that I first try a head gasket sealant since it is such a small leak. Seems like somewhere I have heard not to do this but not for sure. Any thoughts? If you think it is an okay thing to do what brand?

Drew a circle around the old picture where it is leaking.

Michael
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  #8  
Old March 22nd, 2011, 08:40 PM
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You must replace the head gasket. Rovers eat them with clocklike regularity. I suggest you get a complete upper gasket set and bolts. Also a good time for new water pump, belts, and hoses.
Long as you're in there, new cap rotor plugs and wires.
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  #9  
Old March 22nd, 2011, 10:35 PM
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Sounds like head gaskets. If you're hoping to get more than 5k miles, I'd do as Bill says and just replace the head gaskets. It's not too hard of a job.

The gasket /sealant stuff might work, but you're just buying time, IMO.
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  #10  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 07:42 AM
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Agree- HG sadly. I would avoid the cheap/risky fix as the reprocusions are not worth it. You have been learning and doing, and think you can pull this off as well- just keep the shop manual close at hand. Sadly, it will happen again, and probably to the Disco as well... hence the advise to do and learn. I also agree on doing the valley gasket, water pump, etc while apart, and be set for a very long while AND have peace of mind. Good experience for your son too :-)
sorry I missed your second call- message just showed up last evening- love Verizon.
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  #11  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 08:19 AM
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Okay How long should a novice like myself plan on this taking? WORST CASE. Because that is what I need to plan for. It took us three times as long just to lift my sons Disco this last weekend. Mostly because I had to fabricate some parts because of broken bolts and not having everything on hand. trips to the store and all. I need to be prepaired for this. I am suppose to go to SCARR in three weeks. Is is possible to get it done that fast?

I love Verizon also-can you hear me now. "no I dropped the call.......again"

Michael
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  #12  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunmaker View Post
Okay How long should a novice like myself plan on this taking? WORST CASE. Because that is what I need to plan for. It took us three times as long just to lift my sons Disco this last weekend. Mostly because I had to fabricate some parts because of broken bolts and not having everything on hand. trips to the store and all. I need to be prepaired for this. I am suppose to go to SCARR in three weeks. Is is possible to get it done that fast?

I love Verizon also-can you hear me now. "no I dropped the call.......again"

Michael
Can be done in a weekend.
I would have the heads pressure checked and skim cut.
Also while your in there, wouldn't hurt to do a valve job.
An engine machine shop could do this work to the heads in one day.
Give yourself plenty of time, you don't want to be rushed and cut corners.

Best of luck...

Cheers...
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  #13  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 12:42 PM
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The thing that will cost the most time will be frozen or stripped bolts and studs. Because you have to loosen and remove the exhaust manifolds, you may run into some difficulties with the fasteners there. I find I can just take out the manifold bolts and not do any more dis assembly to the exhaust system.
Also, the viscous coupling on the fan has wide flats and there's no room to get a tool in there. Most of the usual vendors sell a tool just for this purpose and I recommend getting one for this and all future engine related tinkering.
The rest of it is pretty straight up taking things apart.

Regarding the heads, if you decide to take them for reconditioning, do not let them take off any metal unless the heads are warped. I doubt they would be, so just have them cleaned up and new valve guides and seals installed.

Assuming all your ducks are in a row, you have all your tools and supplies, and nobody bothers you, a day. Due to one thing or another that could stretch out over many days depending on many external factors.
Looking at the pics again, add some time for cleaning parts.
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  #14  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 12:49 PM
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Are you 100% sure it is the head gasket and not the end seal?
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  #15  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Regarding the heads, if you decide to take them for reconditioning, do not let them take off any metal unless the heads are warped. I doubt they would be, so just have them cleaned up and new valve guides and seals installed.
Out of curiosity- why wouldn't you want them to take off any metal? Isn't this what they do when they resurface the heads?

- sorry to hijack
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  #16  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 02:56 PM
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If they are straight then a good cleaning is all the surface needs. Thing is that when ding dong puts them in the machine you have no idea how much he thinks he needs to take off. Could be a few thou or it could be ten. And if he messes up the set up and planes them wrong....
If the wife isn't looking, throw them in the dishwasher with some Cascade.
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  #17  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 05:10 PM
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Most of the rover heads (petrol) that I see from overheated engines are warped. Even a tiny bit is too much. Get the heads checked for flat and pressure tested by a COMPETENT machine shop and if they determine, skimmed. Chances are that if you are not overheating and do not have CO2 in the coolant this (skimming) may not be *required* but while your in there it would be silly not to put new seals in and grind the valves It's not worth doing half a job and it's not worth having a 'ding dong' do it. A competent shop will only take of what needs to be taken off the heads to do the job. I see way to many half done head gasket jobs that need to be redone and often the damage done ends up costing more than the original job.
I have all Rover V8 heads flattened. It's cheap and one less thing to worry about.
Side note; Just had to replace a short block that was full of some sort of aluminum paste *stop leak*. Caused chronic overheating. Warped heads. Big head aches.
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  #18  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 06:02 PM
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By looking at your photo that you circled...that is not your head or block for that matter. It's the valley pan gasket. If your leak is coming from what you pictured than all that is, is a valley pan with end seals and you're done. 1 hour tops to have it running again. Do your valve cover gaskets while you are in there. Why don't you try snugging all the intake bolts before you go tearing it apart.
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  #19  
Old March 23rd, 2011, 10:58 PM
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Well I was sure it was a head gasket until just a few minutes ago. I don't know how to tell the difference so no I am not sure anymore. The mechanic that looked at it told me head gasket. He is a Rover nut and has built a Series IIa up from a pile of parts but he also suggested I just use block sealer.... So take it for what it is worth. I will have to research Valley end seals and see what I can come up with. Sounds like it would be better if that was the case. It was weeping out right where the arrow is pointing at what I thought was the head and block joint. Plus it looked like the bolt that the line goes over that is behind a hose was a little wet but after we cleaned it we did not see any more moisture.

Thanks everyone for your help,
Michael
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  #20  
Old March 24th, 2011, 12:34 AM
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Just finished searching the sight. It is looking more and more like Valley gasket. grabbed this photo from Phillip when he did his valley gasket and now I can see better where everything is. Blue arrow is where I thought it might be leaking out the bolt. Red arrow is where I am sure it is leaking.

I should note also that I have no smoke coming out the exhaust, no cholocet milk on the oil cap and oil looks clean like there is no water. Have not pulled the plug to check. Suppose I should do that.

Michael
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