Coolant Heater - 300 TDi Block drain thread size - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 12th, 2012, 08:55 AM
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Coolant Heater - 300 TDi Block drain thread size

I'm installing an inline coolant heater and have read through the threads and chatted with some board members about placement and figured out that the best place to tap into the coolant system is the coolant drain plug on the left side of the block just ahead of the turbo (if you're looking at it from the side). The heater is 3/4" or 5/8" for the heater hoses, otherwise if it were a 2" diameter model I'd simply put it on the lower radiator hose.

Anyway, before I get into this and start pissing coolant everywhere, looking for a proper fitting, does anybody know what type of nipple/fitting should be used if you were tapping into the block drain? Is it a tapered thread? what's the thread size?

I'll probably end up using some type of hard pipe with elbows until it clears the turbo just in case the rubber tubing doesn't come anywhere near the turbo or manifold on route to the heater itself.

I plan in mounting the heater on the frame rail (LH) and the outlet tube of the heater will splice into the heater core supply via a "T" fitting.

Anyone see any flaws in this plan? and again if anyone knows the thread size of the drain plug on the side of the block, that would be helpful.
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  #2  
Old December 14th, 2012, 06:18 PM
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Alright, since Overlander was the only one with any input and I coudn't rationalize messing around with drain plugs, I took a different approach.

Temro heater is mounted with outflow facing upward (as instructed), fitted between the heater box return and the top of engine block.

The mount is temporary, but that is the placement I'm sticking with. Above the frame rail for protection, but low enough where it will it will most likely always be below any air pockets when the engine is not running.

The input hose to to the Temro is routed above the wheel well (behind the washer reservoir) to keep it well away from manifold and decrease any risks of kinking (gradual bends). The output/return to block is insulated not so much to keep heat, but because i was worried about chafing on the heater box and hood (when it's closed).

Does this make sense? Anyone see a better way?
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  #3  
Old December 14th, 2012, 07:19 PM
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That looks like it'll work to me! plug it in and report back!
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Old December 14th, 2012, 07:34 PM
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Do a lower rad hose heater. There is no "good" way to install an inline heater.... Been there, done that, seen it not work.
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Old December 16th, 2012, 11:00 PM
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I see what you mean Red90
Not working.
Temro gets hot, the hose to the block gets warm, but that's it.
Left it plugged in for 12 hours and still nothing. The block simply does not get warm.
Heater is open
Maybe pulling the supply from output of heater box means air pockets? I thought the unit being low enough (on frame rail) would be enough for a supply of coolant

Should it have a circulator?

Any thoughts?
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Old December 17th, 2012, 06:51 AM
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As mentioned, these are popular and reported as effective in other TDI forums, so this may be a matter of tinkering and positioning.
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Old December 17th, 2012, 07:52 AM
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The input needs to be lower if it's not circulating. I recommend revisiting the idea of a line coming from the engine drain bolt. That seems to be the universally accepted and most effective method. When done that way, owners have reported it to be very effective.

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=35233
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...-heater-26110/
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Old December 17th, 2012, 08:18 AM
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Thanks Mark, that's. helpful.
Clearly, the input to the zero start needs to be lower.
So back to the block drain block idea then.

I noticed that the drain plug appears to have a crush washer. I need to find an elbow/nipple with some type of shoulder to fit a crush washer. The last thing I need is to install a taper NPT fitting or something and screw up my block in the process.

I like the idea of ordering a spare plug, but I'll still need to find the proper fitting. Not an Autozone/NAPA part.
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Old December 17th, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Why go to all this trouble when a freeze plug/block heater works just fine ??

KAT'S FROST PLUG #11441
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Old December 17th, 2012, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
Why go to all this trouble when a freeze plug/block heater works just fine ??

KAT'S FROST PLUG #11441
fair point.
I heard 1 story about stress cracks on a block from a freezplug heater and I went in another direction. I realize people have been using freezplug heaters forever and I should probably do just that.

Now I'm a little bit pregnant with this project and will probably stubbornly stick with this plan (even if there is something simpler)
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Old December 17th, 2012, 12:48 PM
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Lower rad heater is the easiest. Frost plug the best. There is no good way to do a circulating one o a Defender. Whatever you do, even if it works, will mess up the heater circuit.

Lower rad, frost plug or Webasto.
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Old December 17th, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackie Treehorn View Post
I heard 1 story about stress cracks on a block from a freezplug heater and I went in another direction.
curious...where did you hear this from? i've been contemplating the freezeplug heater and had not heard of this.
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