Continuing clutch nightmare, release bearing seating - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 29th, 2012, 07:57 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
85 200tdi 110
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Continuing clutch nightmare, release bearing seating

I have replaced the master, slave, flex line, fork and release bearing and it is still not working. The bearing, fork and plate were new when I took it apart so I am thinking I must have put something back together wrong? I read in the book that some models require pressing the bearing on to the sleeve. Everything seems to have gone back together as far as I can tell. How much of the push rod should be protruding from the hole in the bell housing? Also, it makes a creaking noise when you depress the clutch pedal and almost wants to work but just wont engage the clutch all the way. Any thoughts, I am about to loose it

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  #2  
Old April 29th, 2012, 09:08 PM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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What were the initial symptoms before you replaced the clutch? Did you use the little plastic clip to connect the fork to the bearing housing? Did you test moving the arm/fork in the bell housing before mating the engine and transmission? Did you take any pictures?

What kind of transmission do you have? It might help someone answer your question about the push rod, but this shouldn't be something you can adjust or screw up afaik. I haven't looked at a 200tdi clutch but others here have for sure.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 10:26 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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It is an LT77. Original symptoms were that of a bad master or slave. Progressively less clutch until it was gone completely. replaced both slave and master put it all back together and when back together and the clutch just wouldn't engage. Talked to a few people and according to some the throw out bearing was bad or the fork was punched through. Took it all apart and the fork, bearing and plate looked new. I replaced the fork and bearing anyways and put it back together. Still nothing, I tried adjusting the pedal on the master cylinder but it just didn't feel right and the clutch just wouldn't engage until I got all the way to the end of the adjustment rod. At that point the clutch would engage but slipped like hell from second gear up. I drained the system and drove with no clutch and it drives perfect, besides having no clutch. I don't have pictures unfortunately. I did put the little keeper clip on but I am not sure it stayed where it was supposed to. I found it at the bottom of the bell housing the first time I took it apart.
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  #4  
Old April 30th, 2012, 08:20 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Ok, based on this, I think you need to revisit the free play at the master cylinder. I replaced the clutch including the full hydraulics on a NAS D90 and the clutch wouldn't engage until i had the correct free play at the master cylinder.

That and make sure it's bled properly.

Hopefully someone else will chime in, but that's where I'd focus my time.
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Old April 30th, 2012, 09:08 AM
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Jason Zolezzi
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Thanks, I will give that a shot
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  #6  
Old April 30th, 2012, 12:51 PM
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James
lightweight 200tdi conversion
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Bleed it backwards from slave to master using oil can, an air lock can stop full actuation of the piston in the cylinder that moves the rod to shift the clutch fork
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Old April 30th, 2012, 04:38 PM
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Matthew
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Also when you put on the clutch fork inside the bellhousing it has a clip on the backside that fits behind the pivot ball. Did you make sure that the clip was behind the ball and not in front?
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  #8  
Old April 30th, 2012, 09:08 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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I did make sure the fork was on the swivel ball correctly, in fact The first time I put the trans back in and it wasn't working I took it back apart to make sure it was all in there right and I could not see anything wrong. I am hoping I am just making some dumb mistake during the bleed process. I have a friend that is going to lend me his power bleeder. It seems like when i bleed it it just won't build pressure properly and no there are no leaks in the system
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