Condensation in gas tank - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old February 5th, 2006, 08:52 AM
Antonios
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Antonios Hadjigeorgalis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
Actually, it will NEVER restart without shutting it off due to the switch design, it's made to do that so you can't kick in the starter if the engine is already running, mine won't even let me turn the key unless I turn it all the way off. Can be embarrasing if you stall at a red light and forget that little fact. Kinda like how you can't lock a door on a SW if it's open, I don't think it's possible to lock your keys in the truck.

-hans
Mine is not setup like that. Even with the engine running you can crank the starter. (of course I'VE NEVER done that )

I actually wrote that wrong, when mine stalls if I try to immediately restart the engine will crank and IF starts it usually dies without giving it gas immediately. If I just wait for the relay to kick out, then it usually starts up with no problems. And if that doesn't work, then I actually have to turn the ignition all the way off and remove the key; and then it will restart without any problems.

I just removed the stepper again and it was not in very tight. It didn't look very dirty but I cleaned it anyway. The shop manual calls for loctite on the threads, which I don't have right now. I don't know if that's enough for an air leak, or if that would even possibly cause the problem.
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  #22  
Old February 5th, 2006, 07:53 PM
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Trevor Griffiths
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With a fuel pressure gauge in line, if the pressure drops rapidly after turning the engine off (or stalling), I'd want to narrow down the problem. ( A rapid loss of pressure could be a faulty ck valve in the fuel pump or leaking injector(s)) With the engine off but the key on, and the fuel system primed, I would clamp off the return line at the engine. If the pressure doesn't drop, than I'd look more at the fuelpump module.
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  #23  
Old March 9th, 2006, 10:28 PM
Antonios
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Antonios Hadjigeorgalis
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Well I think I've tracked it down to the vehicle speed sensor. I unplugged it three days ago and the truck immediately drove better and stalled less. I had the low idle thing (not as bad) happen once today as I came to a stop but no stalling. Before disconnecting I was stalling multiple times during my 1.5 mile commute. usually once in the morning and 3-5 times in the afternoon.

Some other suspects are the injectors, as I tested them with a multi-meter and got almost 5 ohms when the test procedure says 4-4.5 is correct. I'm going to check on getting them serviced.

Also the fuel temp sensor had read equivalent to 104-140 degrees F. But I had driven the truck so it was hot/warm. I'm going to test both the fuel temp and coolant temp sensors one morning; I assume they should read the same if everything is at ambient temperature and if not something is wrong with one/both.

BTW, I already replaced the stepper with the AC Delco 217-437 (25527077) but that didn't do anything.
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  #24  
Old March 9th, 2006, 11:08 PM
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Hans
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Hans Haase
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Have you put a new VSS on yet? Sounds like it might have been the culprit if the problem has gone away.

The VSS is what is supposed to tell the computer to keep the idle speed up when you are rolling, then drop it down to normal when stopped. If it was reading wrong, such as always thought the truck was stopped, then it would have been forcing the stepper motor closed and artificially closing the stepper motor too early and possibly even telling the computer to reduce fuel flow. How did the old VSS look? Any obvious damage or corrosion to it? Never taken one apart myself, I'd be interested to see what it looks like inside and if it is serviceable.

Good idea to test the fuel/temp sensors to compare when cold. Though those temperatures don't sound too out of whack if the truck has been running for a while, as the underhood and underbody heat would soak into the fuel lines. Especially when the truck is hot and you aren't moving.

-Hans
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  #25  
Old March 10th, 2006, 06:56 PM
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Antonios Hadjigeorgalis
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I haven't purchased a new VSS yet, right now I just unplugged the sensor cable but it's still attached to the speedometer cable. Another day with no stalls so I might try to take it out and take it apart if I can figure out how to keep the speedo connected with it removed.

My VSS is kind of hidden by the bracket holding it to the rear drivers side engine mount. It looks a little different than the workshop manual because the speedometer cable sticks out one side and another cable sticks out the oposite side an attaches to the LT230. From what I can see it covered in some mud but doesn't appear to be greasy. I'd have to remove to get a good look.
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  #26  
Old March 25th, 2006, 09:38 PM
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I replaced the VSS Today and the truck is driving great.

Here's a picture of the old VSS. It's held together with rivets so I doubt that it would be possible to repair. There was a little oil in both of the cable ends but nothing too bad. I guess it just died. I think theres a magnet inside so maybe it lost its strength and corrupted the signal.
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