Compression Test, 200Tdi - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 14th, 2015, 10:17 PM
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Compression Test, 200Tdi

Having never done a compression test, what's the surest method? I've a kit on the way. Easiest to go through the glow plug holes it seems.

My question is how to keep it from starting, disconnect the fuel line to injector pump or crack all the injectors? Do I then need to turn it over a few times to clear any fuel before pulling plugs? Remove all the plugs prior to starting or one at a time?

I'm almost certain there is blow-by as evidenced by the genii escaping the oil filler hole while running at temperature. That, along with a loss of low end power, it'll still do 70 but up hill it's getting noticeable.

I've just replaced the head with a Turner gasflowed performance version (all they had in stock)
and a new Garrett T25(ETC7461) turbo, which is slightly pre-loaded so the hole of the actuator arm rests just shy of the pin by half it's diameter.

Looks like a new bottom end is in my future but not till Spring at least. Restore Engine Treatment as a stop gap???

Thanks for any input.
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  #2  
Old November 14th, 2015, 10:21 PM
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Disconnect the wire that is attached to the back of the injector pump (fuel cutoff solenoid) and it won't start.
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Old November 14th, 2015, 10:24 PM
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Easy enough, thanks for that.
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  #4  
Old November 16th, 2015, 12:26 PM
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For gas engines, you can squirt some oil into the bore to compare ring blow-by. On diesels I have read that this must never be done as there is a possibility of ignition which would wreck the compression tester. Never tried it to see.
Anyway, chances are if you have a new head and readings are down time for a short block rebuild.
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Old November 19th, 2015, 04:16 PM
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Ok, the results are in and I'm a bit stumped.

Cylinder readings:
#1-450 psi
#2-440
#3-440
#4-445

I pulled each glow plug as I moved along replacing them as I went, so nothing else was open at test time. Is that the way to do it?

I've read the pressure should be 348 psi.

I guess the Chinese gauge from my "made in the USA" kit could be off 150+/- psi which would explain the power loss problems. But if the gauge isn't faulty why the high pressure and low power?
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Old November 19th, 2015, 04:45 PM
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You really only need to be concerned if they are different from each other or very low. It is impossible to get more than perfect compression.

If you have low power, it is something else. what have you looked at?
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Old November 19th, 2015, 05:07 PM
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man those numbers are nice and close
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Old November 19th, 2015, 05:17 PM
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Other than the new re-man head, valve seals etc /turbo, nothing yet. I'm out of my diagnostic league here. But I've got to deal with it. Where to go from here is the question. Injectors? IP timing? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

I'm not convinced there isn't a blow-by issue, how could there not be with pressure out of the oil fill? that is a real question, I don't know.

------ Follow up post added November 19th, 2015 05:18 PM ------

Quote:
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man those numbers are nice and close

Yeah, I was really surprised, but 450??
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  #9  
Old November 19th, 2015, 05:35 PM
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you could be over-boosting
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Old November 19th, 2015, 06:08 PM
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Look at timing first then injector pattern.

Do you have a boost gauge? Make sure you at making proper boost.

Last would be that the pump is giving enough fuel. Any smoke?

It is not possible to over boost with the stock turbo. You can throw out the wastegate and it won't ever do over 20 psi.
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Old November 19th, 2015, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You can throw out the wastewater and it won't ever do over 20 psi.
Good luck seeing 20. 15 is the most I ever saw on a 200 with the waste gate disconnected.
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Old November 19th, 2015, 06:29 PM
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When you turn up the fueling you get more boost. When you get up to 20 you are at about the max for EGTs. In my experience.
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Old November 19th, 2015, 06:32 PM
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Perhaps it was my vdo gauges but I couldn't get the little garret to make anything over 15 and was easily getting to 1300 degree's.
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Old November 19th, 2015, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM13 View Post
I'm not convinced there isn't a blow-by issue, how could there not be with pressure out of the oil fill? that is a real question, I don't know.
Are you saying there is or is not pressure at the oil filler?
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Old November 19th, 2015, 09:58 PM
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Yes, pressure at the oil fill, a noticeable air flow felt above the opening. Not tested with a gauge, though I do have a spare cap with an adapter somewhere. I assume that pressure would be coming through the front side breather tube since the valve seals are new??

A belch of black smoke on start up, then a bit of blue, not much as it gets to temp ie, I don't see noticeable clouds behind me while driving.

No boost gauge, that would be helpful. I assume a gauge to measure egt is necessary too if I need to get into adjustment of fueling? How does one check the injector pattern?

I only have the manual in pdf form, the versions readily available on the web. The 200Tdi is covered in the "supplement." Is the official paper manual more comprehensive?

Thanks for the input, appreciated.
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Old November 19th, 2015, 11:05 PM
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Put your hand over the filler and cover it completely. Does it suck or blow? Is the crankcase vent system hooked up and working?

Get the boost gauge first before fueling.

Are you sure the timing is good?

The supplement is the official manual.
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Old November 19th, 2015, 11:36 PM
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Filler hole blows. I checked the cyclone breather with a vacuum pump and as far as I could tell by the sound, it opened/closed per the manual. It's hooked up correctly, that hose is clear. I should check the front side breather hose as well.

No, I'm not sure timing is good. What would cause it to go out?

I'll pick up and install a boost gauge.

I suppose the special tools to check timing are needed also?

I'll read through the procedure tomorrow.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Put your hand over the filler and cover it completely. Does it suck or blow? Is the crankcase vent system hooked up and working?

Get the boost gauge first before fueling.

Are you sure the timing is good?

The supplement is the official manual.
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  #18  
Old November 20th, 2015, 12:03 AM
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There are no special tools needed for checking the timing. You can use a drill bit or whatever.

The adjustment bolts could come loose or the belt could jump a tooth.

Do you know if the fuel filter is good and that the loft pump is working? Restricted fuel flow will kill power.
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Old November 20th, 2015, 12:12 AM
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Couldn't hurt to change the fuel filter, a Racor 2 micron with about 25,000mi of fuel through it.
Lift pump seems fine relative to when the last one wasn't. Can they fade or is it only a work/doesn't option?

Thanks again for your input.
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Old November 20th, 2015, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM13 View Post
Couldn't hurt to change the fuel filter, a Racor 2 micron with about 25,000mi of fuel through it.
Lift pump seems fine relative to when the last one wasn't. Can they fade or is it only a work/doesn't option?

Thanks again for your input.
Definitely change your fuel filter. Most hard start/power issues with diesels are fuel related.
Its the first and cheapest thing to rule out.
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