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  #41  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 04:44 PM
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fwiw I have NEVER seen a tdi timing belt that has "jumped a tooth". I have seen many here who offer that as a possibility whenever someone asks about a tdi that isn't running properly. These belts are quite tight if installed properly and the possibility of "jumping a tooth" doesn't exist, imo.

Gene, .5mm off will make the truck run like crap. The three bolt holes in the ip pulley are elongated and have appx 3mm of adjustment. As John says if you lock the flywheel and have those three loose you should be able to move the IP nut to get the drill bit to seat deeply @ the 11 o clock position. If you can't move the pump enough to get the pin to slip in you are a tooth off, as John said.
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  #42  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 04:59 PM
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When I say jump a tooth, I'm really suggesting it was installed a tooth off.

The pictures look like it is correct though and should be adjustable. IME they run best a little advanced. I do this by setting the flywheel notch a bit early.
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  #43  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 05:19 PM
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Could this possibly again be a case where the FIP was installed incorrectly, causing the timing pin method to look correct, but the FIP timing to not actually be correct?
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  #44  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 05:22 PM
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Gene has had his truck for years. I don't think his injection pump has been removed so that shouldn't be his problem
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  #45  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
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Gene has had his truck for years. I don't think his injection pump has been removed so that shouldn't be his problem
Affirmative
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  #46  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 08:42 PM
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Nope, Doug is correct, no FIP off under my "stewardship." Just found the diameter for the timing pin is actually 9.5mm or.374" (at least according to LRTBV) so if a 3/8 bit doesn't fit there is a .5mm problem.

What I don't understand is how it became off. Truck ran great till probably this Summer some time, a gradual, almost unnoticed decrease in power that just dawned on me one day. Nothing happened overnight. So if TB is installed incorrectly why did it run fine in the first place and if they don't jump why can't I adjust anymore?

Did take it for a drive, a tad more oomph but seemed a bit rougher running. Still starts and idles fine.

The 3 bolt holes don't appear to be elongated as the obviously elongated empty slots are in between. They're just oversized holes correct ? Could somebody have put that plate on wrong?

Changing the F filter tomorrow, maybe that'll be the magic bullet but I forsee a timing belt replacement coming very soon. It was supposedly done 38,000 miles ago by MRM, the yahoo I bought it from. I asked for photos of the process he sent me one of a TB in its packaging on top of the engine. Should change it for that reason alone.

Again, really appreciate all the input, it's been helpful.



Good TB change how-to, states timing pin diameter at 11:26 for whoever may care:
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  #47  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 08:53 PM
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Ummm. 9.5mm = 3/8". That is why I said 3/8".

The slots are in the timing belt pulley. The bolts bolt into the injection pump flange.

Big slot is timing pin. Small slots are for the three bolts. Two small holes are tapped for the pulley retention tool when changing the pump.
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  #48  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 08:58 PM
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Yeah you were right on Red but in BlackField's post where you were offering some good advice he was using a 9mm. And if it was indeed 9mm I may have been ok. Wishful thinking.

Ok gotcha on the holes.
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  #49  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 09:03 PM
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Anyway. From your photo, it looks adjusted correctly. I just checked my timing kit and the pin is 9.35 mm in it.
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  #50  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 09:43 PM
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I just re-read what I wrote in post 46 and It sounds as if I'd never learned from John the pin was 3/8 before. I got to wishful thinking back in post 39 cause 9mm woulda made my world a warm and fuzzy place. Post 46 was just re-confirming your much appreciated Rover Wisdom, John, in a not too clear fashion. Apologies for the seeming slight.
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  #51  
Old November 24th, 2015, 07:26 PM
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As Red90 said, no compression issues, new gauge showed up today and did a warm test for a baseline:
1 438
2 418
3 438
4 420

Replaced the heater core which had NO effect

Fuel filter, thanks Doug---Magic Bullet, she's running like a top, can even accelerate uphill!

Thanks again all, learned a lot.
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  #52  
Old November 24th, 2015, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM13 View Post
As Red90 said, no compression issues, new gauge showed up today and did a warm test for a baseline:
1 438
2 418
3 438
4 420

Replaced the heater core which had NO effect

Fuel filter, thanks Doug---Magic Bullet, she's running like a top, can even accelerate uphill!

Thanks again all, learned a lot.
Cool. I learned that one the hard way. Was 60 miles offshore trolling for tuna off NJ and lost an engine. Freaked us out so brought the gear in and headed West on one engine and 30 mins later the second died. Went below and pulled the hatch over the big racors and switched them both and she fired right up. Ran hard for 2hrs and both engines died again within sight of the inlet. Changed them again and all was good again. Sucks when you take on 240 gallons of bad diesel @ a time. I suggest always traveling with a spare fuel filter if your truck is a diesel.
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  #53  
Old November 25th, 2015, 07:57 AM
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I can see Gene standing at the head of the table on Thanksgiving Day giving grace. Right at the end he mentions Uncle Doug. Everyone looks up and over at Gene with that look- yes! How could we forget.
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  #54  
Old November 25th, 2015, 09:30 AM
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Yes, I will request a moment of silence from all assembled to give thanks to John, Doug and all along with the Rover gods for bestowing such free flowing wisdom upon them.
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