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  #21  
Old November 20th, 2015, 10:07 AM
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Gene
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Thanks Doug, will do.
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  #22  
Old November 20th, 2015, 06:06 PM
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Ok, apparently compression needs to be tested while engine is up to temperature, I tested cold. Rained all day today so no hot test till tomorrow. Do cold pressures mean anything?

Anyone know of a stateside source for the timing tools kit? I understand I could use whatever but I'm challenged enough, don't need to be fumbling with a cobbled affair. Plus it'll be helpful for doing the belt change. Should a kit not be readily available, what's the diameter of the timing pin?
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  #23  
Old November 20th, 2015, 06:23 PM
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Call Zack at Rovers North. He can set you up with the timing belt tool, belt and anything else that you would possibly want or need.
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  #24  
Old November 20th, 2015, 06:50 PM
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Hot should give you more compression. Your cold readings are great so there is no point. You don't have a compression problem.

3/8" for the pin. The kit does nothing useful. Set top dead centre by looking up the wading plug hole. Feel for the pump alignment with a drill bit. It is not rocket surgery. The pin method is not very accurate to begin with.
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  #25  
Old November 20th, 2015, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Hot should give you more compression. Your cold readings are great so there is no point. You don't have a compression problem.

3/8" for the pin. The kit does nothing useful. Set top dead centre by looking up the wading plug hole. Feel for the pump alignment with a drill bit. It is not rocket surgery. The pin method is not very accurate to begin with.

Ok, great, I'll give it a whirl. Thanks for that.
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  #26  
Old November 21st, 2015, 01:32 PM
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Timing checked out ok, 3/8" drill bit did the trick, it won't fit a 13/32 so a close fit. Thanks again Red90. I could see where one of the spring loaded flywheel timing pins could be useful, though I don't think my wife minded terribly hanging out under the truck for a bit eyeballing it.

The timing slot on the pump was at the 4 o'clock position. In vids I've watched it's at the 10-11 o'clock. The narrower flywheel slot was the one I lined up in the hole.


For giggles I tested the compression hot and found the gauge wouldn't hold the readings. A reading of 0 for cylinder 1 gave me a scare but when they all read consistently the same I realized the suspected problem.

I watched the gauge while it was turned over and though bouncy, all readings seemed to be around 350 for what that is worth coming from a pos gauge.

Going to pick up a fuel filter....
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  #27  
Old November 21st, 2015, 01:36 PM
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It is 11:00. You are a revolution out and the pin was not going in all the way. Feel with a small diameter like a screw driver to tell when you are close. The crank rotates two revolutions for every one revolution of the injection pump.
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  #28  
Old November 21st, 2015, 03:52 PM
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BTW I recommend testing the boost pressure using a gauge. There is almost no way for you to know the actual boost pressure of the turbo by the resting position of the actuator arm hole...

It doesn't have to be an expensive gauge...you just need to set it properly.
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  #29  
Old November 21st, 2015, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
It is 11:00. You are a revolution out and the pin was not going in all the way. Feel with a small diameter like a screw driver to tell when you are close. The crank rotates two revolutions for every one revolution of the injection pump.
It's a little off. Any way to adjust it without a flywheel locking pin? Loosened the three bolts but the whole kit turns w/o the lock.

------ Follow up post added November 21st, 2015 04:06 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
BTW I recommend testing the boost pressure using a gauge. There is almost no way for you to know the actual boost pressure of the turbo by the resting position of the actuator arm hole...

It doesn't have to be an expensive gauge...you just need to set it properly.
Have one on the way, but it IS an expensive gauge. I'm still under the illusion that if you spend more on something it MUST be better and therefore easier to accomplish the task at hand.


Should have bought the Hf compression kit for $40. No, had to spend 110 for a used "professional" kit,made in the states, in excellent condition, with a crappy china made gauge...
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  #30  
Old November 21st, 2015, 05:22 PM
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You loosen the thee bolts and then turn the middle bolt to adjust. You don't need to lock the flywheel.
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  #31  
Old November 21st, 2015, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
BTW I recommend testing the boost pressure using a gauge. There is almost no way for you to know the actual boost pressure of the turbo by the resting position of the actuator arm hole...

It doesn't have to be an expensive gauge...you just need to set it properly.
Set what properly? The wastegate? When did anyone talk about setting the wastegate?
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  #32  
Old November 21st, 2015, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You loosen the thee bolts and then turn the middle bolt to adjust. You don't need to lock the flywheel.

Tried that. Turning the middle bolt just turns the crank and throws things out of alignment. The three surrounding bolts are loose. It doesn't appear that difficult in the video but I'm putting some weight on it against a wrench I'm holding on the crank and it ain't goin. Anything else that locks the pump?
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  #33  
Old November 21st, 2015, 05:49 PM
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An aside, trying to figure why the larger slot in the flywheel when centered in drain hole sets the pump timing hole to (near) line up at 11 o'clock
Is it possible to re-install the flywheel 180 degrees off? It had to get machined 2 years ago when the clutch was done. Can't remember why, something about the flywheel studs maybe.
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  #34  
Old November 21st, 2015, 05:55 PM
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With the three bolts loose there should be some free movement. It is against some resistance in the pump but not much. If it causes the belt to move you are out of the range of movement and the belt is installed a tooth out.

Does it looks like you are at the limits of the slots in the timing pulley?
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  #35  
Old November 21st, 2015, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM13 View Post
An aside, trying to figure why the larger slot in the flywheel when centered in drain hole sets the pump timing hole to (near) line up at 11 o'clock
Is it possible to re-install the flywheel 180 degrees off? It had to get machined 2 years ago when the clutch was done. Can't remember why, something about the flywheel studs maybe.
There is a mark with a TDC label of the crank pulley. It should be facing straight up when the timing notch is visible.

There is a locating dowel on the flywheel, so it can only go in one way.
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  #36  
Old November 21st, 2015, 06:04 PM
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http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...adj-64383.html
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  #37  
Old November 21st, 2015, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Set what properly? The wastegate? When did anyone talk about setting the wastegate?
Read the OP's original post more carefully.
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  #38  
Old November 21st, 2015, 11:59 PM
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Gene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
There is a mark with a TDC label of the crank pulley. It should be facing straight up when the timing notch is visible.
Yes, saw the mark and lined it up to the same location as displayed in the linked video at 1:40 but it's not facing straight up, it too is about 11 o'clock with flywheel notch centered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Does it looks like you are at the limits of the slots in the timing pulley?
I'll check that tomorrow, if it has jumped a tooth a new timing belt kit is in order also I suppose.
Thanks for the link to BlackField's timing adventures. Slowly getting my noggin wrapped around the process.
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  #39  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 02:02 PM
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I've got it as close as it's going to get without getting behind the cover. A 3/8" drill bit goes in about 1.25" --not the full depth. but the hole looks pretty darn close to being on. I see in BlackField's thread he used a 9mm which is .35433" compared to 3/8 at .375" I wouldn't be surprised if that's all the difference it needs to slide in fully.

My question: is that close enough? Could it be that close and still be affecting the power levels? It starts fine, idles fine. Haven't taken it for a drive but can't imagine the little I've tweaked it would do much.

I made up a flywheel locking pin pro-hobo style which worked well and did make it easier to adjust without worrying about misalignment. For any newbie struggling without the tool it's an easy, locally available cobble, a Watts bushing-- 1/4"MIP X 1/8" FIP, also known as an 8mm X 3mm, the center of which was re-tapped to take the bolt 3/8-16. A 2.5" 3/8 X16tpi carriage bolt with the head cut off, slot cut in for screwdriver at one end, chuck into drill press, hit the other end with grinder to a suitable angle that will center itself in flywheel slot
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  #40  
Old November 22nd, 2015, 02:23 PM
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Here are pics of the situation as it stands (pic 1 should be rotated 90 deg cc):


More info possibly helpful to someone: the glow plug compression fitting is a 10 X 1.0 TU-15-1A for ford navistar 6.9L and 7.3L (up to 1994)

Available in these kits:
http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-346...ompression+kit

http://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-TU-...ompression+kit
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