Completely lost all control of steering today - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old January 4th, 2011, 12:40 PM
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next time use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint, if said tool does not hold the ball joint you can use a ball joint separator, looks like two fingers and a thumb with a bolt in the middle. lastly a good whap with aball peen hammer on the ouside of the loop allways works. good collection of front end tools.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...EJKYSouO10PyuA
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  #22  
Old January 4th, 2011, 01:04 PM
The Dro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlosz View Post
next time use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint, if said tool does not hold the ball joint you can use a ball joint separator, looks like two fingers and a thumb with a bolt in the middle. lastly a good whap with aball peen hammer on the ouside of the loop allways works. good collection of front end tools.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...EJKYSouO10PyuA
I used one of these from Auto Zone and they are a POS... I broke two of them. I ended borrowing a HD one and got the job done. (I guess the penetrating oil, heat, hammering, cursing... helped too).
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  #23  
Old January 4th, 2011, 07:07 PM
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Pedro you are such an amateur. lol...



Quote:
Originally Posted by rrc.swb View Post
I used one of these from Auto Zone and they are a POS... I broke two of them. I ended borrowing a HD one and got the job done. (I guess the penetrating oil, heat, hammering, cursing... helped too).
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  #24  
Old January 4th, 2011, 07:40 PM
The Dro
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Originally Posted by carlosz View Post
Pedro you are such an amateur. lol...
Hey... They rent for FREE... who can beat that...

And the job got done...
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  #25  
Old January 5th, 2011, 12:38 AM
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I think this is poorly designed. Don't see any advantages to it. Also think the steering damper attachment sucks.

I took the pitman arm for a D1 (fits on the D90 steering box). This then allows you to use a proper TRE. This is much easier to service, replace, and fix. You must also change the way the steering damper is attached. But I think this is an upgrade too.

See the pic below.
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  #26  
Old January 5th, 2011, 10:35 PM
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I have one of those and it works great. Never had any problems. Also ever had any problems just knocking them out with a hammer and the nut run up to the end of the thread either, even though everyone says you should never do that.

I have broken the large threaded end of a tie rod end where it threads into the rod itself. That was a surprise. Have had better success since.

Quote:
Originally Posted by carlosz View Post
Pedro you are such an amateur. lol...
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  #27  
Old January 6th, 2011, 10:39 AM
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Use two hammers and sandwich the part you are trying to free. They just pop out.

Ron

------ Follow up post added January 6th, 2011 10:40 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rrc.swb View Post
I tried heat, penetrating oil, voodoo... you name it.
3ft pipe wrench?
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  #28  
Old January 6th, 2011, 11:29 AM
The Dro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
I have one of those and it works great. Never had any problems. Also ever had any problems just knocking them out with a hammer and the nut run up to the end of the thread either, even though everyone says you should never do that.

I have broken the large threaded end of a tie rod end where it threads into the rod itself. That was a surprise. Have had better success since.
I've always used them and had no issues.

The RRC I had, came from upstate NY and EVERYTHING... was rusted shot....

hell, even the aluminum panels had rust (just kidding for the ones that cannot read between the lines )

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Use two hammers and sandwich the part you are trying to free. They just pop out.

Ron

------ Follow up post added January 6th, 2011 10:40 AM ------



3ft pipe wrench?
I used a 24" breaker bar and ended up braking the removal tool... but that was a while back on the RRC... now a have the DI.
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