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  #21  
Old November 30th, 2010, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
Laser cut out of Stainless would be a much cheaper manufacturing process, and I but a much cheaper price...My buddy has a laser machine that can cleanly cut .500 material..
You mean like 303 or 304? Then take it out and have it bump formed? You guys are nuts.
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  #22  
Old November 30th, 2010, 10:18 PM
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Back to the badges...could you do a separate piece (maybe that bolts through the hex holes) that is essentially a protruded mount? I.e. an oval mount that a badge could be mounted on, and then bolted through the hex holes (something like two protruding rods that would pass through the hex holes and be bolted from the back of the grill). Let me know if this makes sense...
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  #23  
Old November 30th, 2010, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Back to the badges...could you do a separate piece (maybe that bolts through the hex holes) that is essentially a protruded mount? I.e. an oval mount that a badge could be mounted on, and then bolted through the hex holes (something like two protruding rods that would pass through the hex holes and be bolted from the back of the grill). Let me know if this makes sense...
I think I am following you, but what happens if you accidently reverse the wires going into the flux capacitor?

Or, I could just leave an oval with no holes on it for the guys that want it. It would just be a program modification.
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  #24  
Old November 30th, 2010, 11:58 PM
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Good point. Since you're building these to order you can always have two patterns. One for badge and one for without. Although I still see a downside to not being able to place the badge wherever you like but perhaps that's just me. It's probably more hassle than it's worth but you could have a badge mounting plate with hex shaped posts on the back. The posts fit into the hex holes anywhere on the grill and you could have a nut or two to secure it from the rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s

Or, I could just leave an oval with no holes on it for the guys that want it. It would just be a program modification.
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  #25  
Old December 1st, 2010, 12:08 AM
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I vote for the badge mounting plate with hex posts!
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  #26  
Old December 1st, 2010, 07:35 AM
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David - my suggestion is to remain focused on the grill itself - hole size, test fit on several defenders, etc. Anybody who wants to mount an badge can be creative and figure out a solution on their own. Even if you have a separate program to accommodate mounting a badge, I doubt agreement on location will come easy. Kudos to you for taking on this effort. Mark
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  #27  
Old December 1st, 2010, 08:43 AM
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Badges...? Badges...?

We don't need no stinkin' badges!!!



Hahahahahaha!!!

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  #28  
Old December 1st, 2010, 11:30 PM
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Hi Guys,

The mock plastic piece is milled. So far I am stoked with it! The holes right now are 5/8. I am going to go to 3/4 or even bigger. The pattern is very cool. The cost looks like it will come in on budget with the process improvments. The calloring on the back is killer. We may have to tweak the radius when we test fit but it's very close. Have not countersunk the bolts yet. Trying to see how much play we really need. This is going to be one bad ass grill!
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  #29  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 12:38 AM
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You still think it will come in at $350 or under? Sign me up! There's an extra $50 in it for you if you can mill a badge mount . (man, this guy just won't let that go!).
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  #30  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 01:10 AM
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Badge mount is really not needed.
I took the badge and a piece of aluminum bar then samwitched the metal (aftermarket) grill between, Then drilled and riveted the aluminum bar.
Has not gotten loose after lots and lots of washboard.

Buck- I really really like the design but the cost would be prohibitive for me. I know you are not trying to make a ...Buck... but any chance of a lower cost?
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  #31  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 08:33 AM
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Rather than a powder coat finish, could you anodize the grill instead?
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  #32  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 10:15 AM
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I don't like badges myself. Just throwing out ideas. Someone other than Buck might want to make one for themselves.

I don't want to answer for Buck but I think it's going to be really difficult to lower cost on a large item with lots of detail like this unless you sell thousand of them. Custom machining is $$$ and even if you go to stamped alu (which is not an option) you still have upfront mold cost.

Plastic mock up looks great! How long did it take to machine? I would definitely buy that over the flimsy heritage grill.
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  #33  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
You still think it will come in at $350 or under? Sign me up! There's an extra $50 in it for you if you can mill a badge mount . (man, this guy just won't let that go!).
I can make a badge mount, but it's back burner untill the grill is all done and perfect!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevkon View Post
Rather than a powder coat finish, could you anodize the grill instead?
I have had really bad luck with anodize. The last time I did it the black turned into a pinkish/purple in sunlight. I have had no complaints about the powdercoat though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
I don't like badges myself. Just throwing out ideas. Someone other than Buck might want to make one for themselves.

I don't want to answer for Buck but I think it's going to be really difficult to lower cost on a large item with lots of detail like this unless you sell thousand of them. Custom machining is $$$ and even if you go to stamped alu (which is not an option) you still have upfront mold cost.

Plastic mock up looks great! How long did it take to machine? I would definitely buy that over the flimsy heritage grill.
You are mostly right. However, once the final design is completed, we will process improve the program with new endmills and drills. I know I can pull time out of it (thats what I do for a living). Right now, I am pretty confident that I can make the $350 price depending on PC cost. The raw material may have to be 3/8 so there is more in that cost than expected. It's all up in the air. I know right now I can't go below that!
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  #34  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 10:45 AM
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Awesome news about the mount, and definitely understandable to put the finished grill at the top of the list.

I also agree about the anodized...the color can vary so much with that so you're better off sticking to the powdercoat as long as it's done right (like the wingtops / tdi vent which came out perfect).

Thanks for your work on this, I forgone can't wait to get rid of my plastic grill!
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  #35  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 12:12 PM
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I want to get rid of my plastic too, but with all the over heating issues I read about on this forum (especially on the V8's), I can see that the total open area for air to pass through on this aluminum grill vs the plastic will be significantly reduced. I think some calculation is in order as to the total open area to allow air to pass though. There's also the issue of frictional drag of the air going through the holes, the larger the holes, the better. So it seems, the least amount of material left in the grill, the better for the best cooling.
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  #36  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 12:18 PM
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Are you making the holes larger for looks or air flow? Seems like the more you open them up the more chance something can damae the rad / intercooler.

Would it be less time / cost if you were to switch to an oval or round hole? An oval hole might look really nice in this application.
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  #37  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Are you making the holes larger for looks or air flow? Seems like the more you open them up the more chance something can damae the rad / intercooler.

Would it be less time / cost if you were to switch to an oval or round hole? An oval hole might look really nice in this application.

Look at the picture of the plastic grill, huge rocks can fly into the radiator through it.
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  #38  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
I want to get rid of my plastic too, but with all the over heating issues I read about on this forum (especially on the V8's), I can see that the total open area for air to pass through on this aluminum grill vs the plastic will be significantly reduced. I think some calculation is in order as to the total open area to allow air to pass though. There's also the issue of frictional drag of the air going through the holes, the larger the holes, the better. So it seems, the least amount of material left in the grill, the better for the best cooling.
By the time it is complete the new grill will have more flow than the stock one. The stock one has significant design flaws. This is not the finished hole size, it is a mockup. That said, there is a balance between airflow and protection.
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  #39  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 12:33 PM
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Buck, are you using Solidworks? Should be pretty easy to do a surface area calculation (percentage of open-ess). I would be careful opening it too much but would be cool to beat open-ess percentage of other similar designs.
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  #40  
Old December 2nd, 2010, 12:47 PM
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Buck, are you using Solidworks? Should be pretty easy to do a surface area calculation (percentage of open-ess). I would be careful opening it too much but would be cool to beat open-ess percentage of other similar designs.
Mastercam. But since nothing is available as far as numbers for the stock one, it may not really matter, but easy enough. There are three parts to this. Airflow, protection, and looks. I'm not willing to give up one for more of the other. Those are 5/8 holes. I'm going to kick up to 3/4 for sure. It is a little too small now. But much larger and the chance of a bigrock coming through is possible. That's not okay. I've had a thrown rock destroy my grill before. It gave me this idea in the first place!
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