Clutch repair: engine or gearbox removal? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 11:24 AM
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Clutch repair: engine or gearbox removal?

So my 300TDi wants a new clutch. OK, says I, I will give it to you. But the manual says go remove the gearbox et al. Working solo, I strongly dislike the idea- and lack the proper jack. Anyone of you esteemed colleagues have done this job from the top? Pros, cons? Should I stop complaining and follow the manual? Give away the darn thing and just drive the Mini? Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!
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  #2  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 12:09 PM
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phil
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Did it a few months ago when R380 went. Renewed clutch as it had to be exposed..... Basically me & forum member did it in my garage.... was definitely a pain. We had a basic tranny jack as lowered both gear box & transfer case as a unit. Its a big job but not impossible..... basically remove exhaust, remover drive shafts, remove cross member, release parking brake..... then start releasing gearbox & transfer from mounts..... lower as you wish..... be sure since have units out to renew seals..... as many as possible....
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  #3  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 12:11 PM
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Steps by Jeff:

1) Remove shirt
2) Remove transmission
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  #4  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 12:37 PM
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remove floors and trans tunnel, hang the trans off a come-along or engine crane, disconnect propshafts and handbrake, breathers, wiring etc, and slide the trans transfer back 6 inches or so. change clutch and then re-assemble. easier than totally removing either assembly
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  #5  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
remove floors and trans tunnel, ...easier than totally removing either assembly
Completely agreed...for the Series.

Haven't done it to the Defender though...wait, it's an auto!
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  #6  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 01:13 PM
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Santiago Montenegro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
remove floors and trans tunnel, hang the trans off a come-along or engine crane, disconnect propshafts and handbrake, breathers, wiring etc, and slide the trans transfer back 6 inches or so. change clutch and then re-assemble. easier than totally removing either assembly
Now, that's more like it. I've done it in the Series IIa. The manual had me persuaded that it was not doable in the Def. Darn manual.

Thanks all!
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  #7  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Series is a different animal with its welded in crossmember....
Not all of em'

MoD = removable crossmember.

Hang the trans from straps on 2x4s from the dash to the rear bulkhead (109 reg) and all is well with the world.
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  #8  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
remove floors and trans tunnel, hang the trans off a come-along or engine crane, disconnect propshafts and handbrake, breathers, wiring etc, and slide the trans transfer back 6 inches or so. change clutch and then re-assemble. easier than totally removing either assembly

If you can get away with it... make sense. Should not have to drop all of entrails to change clutch......

so you still have to release them from mounts? then best to have a tranny jack and hold back 6"?
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  #9  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
So are you pulling the seat box too?

-Jeff
Sorry...sorry...nope, didn't need to move the seatbox.

- - -

edit...

How the heck did I do that??? I'm sure I just supported the trans and transfer case from the straps...never dropped them out...

Crap, this age thing is killin me...
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  #10  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 02:44 PM
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i changed out my gearbox/clutch last summer by myself.... took off the doors, seats, cubby and the seat box cover below it, disconnected and dropped it to the floor on a piece of plywood and slid it out. it does help to take out the floor boards. one really good piece of advice i read on here, go find 4 bolts about 4" long that will thread into the block (same bolt holes for the bell housing) and cut off the heads, grind a slot in them for a screwdriver and put them in the block as "guide studs" to help guide the gear box on, worked very well. best of luck!
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  #11  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 03:25 PM
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I put the truck on 4 ramps, open both front doors wide and tie them that way, take out the floor & transmission tunnel, remove the centre cover on the seat box, then put my chain hoist on an 'A' frame through the front doors, whip off the prop shafts, remove the exhaust and transmission mounting brackets, lift the transmission slightly, put a block of wood under the flywheel housing, lower slightly, undo the nuts mating the transmission to the engine, slide the transmission back, remove old clutch, replace release bearing and clutch fork(with a heavy duty one)Put on new clutch. Reassemble. Job done.

So transmission out is best.

Reason for four ramps is to give clearance to wheel the transmission out on a low trolley.
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  #12  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
... whip off the prop shafts, remove the exhaust and transmission mounting brackets....


I'm sorry, it's my juvenile sense of humor acting up again...
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  #13  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 04:00 PM
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good call
Thoroughly off topic
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  #14  
Old January 22nd, 2013, 04:32 PM
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Personally I prefer taking the engine out. The work is about the same, but it is nicer to do if you do not have a lift. It also makes it easier to replace, setup and check out the clutch hydraulics and the clutch itself. 5 hours with a friend to help.
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  #15  
Old January 23rd, 2013, 09:17 AM
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Hmmm, thanks a lot to all. I am still undecided. Take out the engine? Take out the floor? Come this weekend (or the next) we'll see. Anyway, I am already happy that I won't be dropping the gearbox from below the car.
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  #16  
Old January 23rd, 2013, 10:18 AM
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I'd go with taking out the floor, especially if you have A/C.
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  #17  
Old January 23rd, 2013, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael67 View Post
I'd go with taking out the floor, especially if you have A/C.
That is the turning point. If it wasn't for the A/C, the engine would already be out.
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  #18  
Old January 23rd, 2013, 05:17 PM
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Transmission weighs less and you don't have to drain fluids.
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  #19  
Old January 23rd, 2013, 10:16 PM
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You can drop transmission with no special tools but it's a 3 mens work to hold it and place it on the floor, on top of a thick cardboard. Then you lift one side of the truck and pull it outside.
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  #20  
Old January 24th, 2013, 04:07 PM
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on the series truck I put a 2x4 across the roof inner rails with an eye hook in the middle. the trans gets hung off that with a come along. the trans slides back and stops when the bellhousing hits the front of the seatbox. you could put a regular trolley jack under it to help support it if need be. the list of things to remove in order to make this work will vary truck to truck but it is doable on any vehicle when you can remove enough of the floor to have access to the trans.

I see no reason why this is not doable on any defender. you'll need the center console out which could be a pain if you have alot of electrical shizz. YMMV
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