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  #1  
Old September 17th, 2014, 12:16 PM
ymc226
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Lawrence
1995 D90 SW NAS
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Location: Princeton, NJ, USA
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clutch question

Clutch on my 95 D90 doesn't have the "resistive" feel that it had when I bought it; in fact, it is much easier to press down until I meet resistance almost until it reaches the floor. I can still change gears and when I release it quickly, I don't get that jolt in the truck. It feels too smooth.

My truck came with all of the maintainence records. It has 88K miles and had it's clutch/master cylinder changed at 70K.

Is the way the clutch is behaving meaning that I need to get a new clutch (whatever that means). What parts are necessary?

Does the Defender need special clutch fluid? My mechanic who works on LR told me that it needs special fluid, otherwise the seals get eaten away by regular clutch fluid.

------ Follow up post added September 17th, 2014 12:20 PM ------

Another issue is that the LR specialist told me that changing the clutch is quite difficult in the Defender and may involve taking the left front fender off. He is in the process of moving to another location so won't be able to work on the truck for 2 weeks.

I'd like to get the truck fixed soon if possible. Can any reliable mechanic change the clutch or troubleshoot the problem or should I just wait for the LR specialist?
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  #2  
Old September 17th, 2014, 12:35 PM
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Davis
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Chris Davis
94 NAS D90 6.2LS
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First, if it doesn't engage/disengage until it reaches the floor, that isn't necessarily the clutch. More like the master/slave cylinder. You will see the fluid fill right on the firewall by the brake master cylinder. It takes brake fluid and most people run the Castrol LMA. Changing the clutch doesn't necessitate taking off the front fender, although some people access the master/slave by doing that although it is not necessary. I don't remove it to access mine.

Put your truck in gear, such as 3rd or 4th gear with the truck running and the parking brake on. Slowly release the clutch and see if the truck stalls. If it does, then your clutch should still be fine at least roughly.

To do a good job changing the clutch, you will want to either pull the engine or pull the transmission (some people prefer one over the other) and also turn your flywheel in addition to changing the clutch. And throwout bearing. And check your fork.

The first thing you should do is see if you are bleeding fluid from somewhere which you will be able to tell if you have low fluid. Secondly, bleed your slave master cylinder. See if that fixes it.
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  #3  
Old September 17th, 2014, 01:29 PM
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xjahx
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JAH
'93 NAS 110, '94 NAS ST, '85 90 PU
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I lost clutch pedal feel and resistance. Like Chris suggests, start with the obvious:

-Is the fluid in the MC reservoir low?
-Is clutch fluid dripping into your footwell? (MC problem)
-Is clutch fluid dripping at slave cylinder interface?

Having had your MC recently replaced, I would start by swapping the Slave Cylinder. The job takes about 30 minutes, and the part is readily available in Genuine and Proline / aftermarket. Just remember that the bleed valve goes on top.

To bleed, I used a 50cc syringe full of Castrol LMA, a 2 ft piece of flexible rubber hose ($1 at ACE), and I reverse bleed through SC up to MC. Simple.
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  #4  
Old September 17th, 2014, 06:09 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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Clutch swap:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...17&postcount=1

Master cylinder is very tricky when mounted on LHD. But you don't need to extract the fender!
Slave cylinder is very easy to check.

As shown at the cover of the master cylinder, use DOT3!
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  #5  
Old September 18th, 2014, 09:17 AM
ymc226
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Lawrence
1995 D90 SW NAS
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Location: Princeton, NJ, USA
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Thanks for all of your suggestions. Looking at the history of service the truck has had, it was the 3rd time the master cylinder was replaced at 70K. Does that sound right?
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  #6  
Old September 18th, 2014, 09:38 AM
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xjahx
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JAH
'93 NAS 110, '94 NAS ST, '85 90 PU
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No, not at all.
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  #7  
Old September 18th, 2014, 11:11 AM
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Davis
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Chris Davis
94 NAS D90 6.2LS
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No, and frankly, it is usually the slave that leaks although the master definitely will go bad sometime. I have replaced mine one time in about 140K miles or so.

Good vid on replacing the slave--might give you a good idea of what is going on:
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