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  #21  
Old June 19th, 2011, 09:27 PM
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Rover clutches are good for at least 100k if you do not abuse them.
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  #22  
Old June 20th, 2011, 02:31 PM
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Mike Hammond
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I would, 20K is maybe 1/5 or more worn. Depends if you plan on keeping the truck for another 100,000 miles
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  #23  
Old June 20th, 2011, 04:41 PM
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Its a no brainer to me - you have all the hassle of either removing the engine or the box, seems false economy not to change the clutch pack and release bearing while you are in there............my fitter replaces the clutch by removing the tunnel and gear stick/transfer lever, undoing all the bell housing bolts and the gearbox rubber mountings then supports the gearbox on cradle/trolley and slides the whole lot back, having just enough room to change the clutch etc...........Ive only seen it done on tdi's though........

Paul
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  #24  
Old June 20th, 2011, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
I would, 20K is maybe 1/5 or more worn. Depends if you plan on keeping the truck for another 100,000 miles
I suppose that depends on the user.... Some people get 500 k out of a clutch, some 50 k.
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  #25  
Old June 20th, 2011, 06:53 PM
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Is it terrible to tow the 65 miles home using a front wheel dolly? I have one, and it would save me about $200 from the towing.
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  #26  
Old June 20th, 2011, 07:38 PM
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Can you rent a Uhaul flatbed for cheaper?
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  #27  
Old June 20th, 2011, 08:08 PM
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Is it terrible to tow the 65 miles home using a front wheel dolly? I have one, and it would save me about $200 from the towing.
Just take off the rear driveshaft.
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  #28  
Old June 27th, 2011, 08:51 PM
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Good call Mike! Clutch fork was shot!
Got the engine out in a couple hours, I took the Rad out but probably could of done it without. I haven't gotten it back together because I decided to have the clutch fork reinforced, I'll try and reassemble tomorrow.
The ball that the fork pivots on was a bit rough, so I just sanded it a bit and it seems good.
Thoughts?


My new Starter, very shiny. Burnt out the old one bumping the truck on the trailer.

I also got the rebuilt injection pump in

The manual calls for molybdenum disulfide grease for the pivot and other things in the fork area, I got some but it says its for the brakes? What should I use?
Thanks
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  #29  
Old June 28th, 2011, 07:22 PM
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Mike Hammond
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I'd probably put in a new push rod too, if it's rough it's going to cause friction and wear. I'd recommend copper based grease on the push rod end, the forks sometimes come with a blob of the stuff on them.
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