Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Leak Merged Threadfest - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 30th, 2004, 01:30 PM
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How hard is it to replace the Clutch Master Cylinder?

I have clutch fluid dripping down my clutch pedal. I have heard this is a b*tch, I have also heard it is real easy. Just trying to plan my day, and any helpful advice is much appreciated!
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  #2  
Old March 30th, 2004, 01:59 PM
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Michael Slade
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Yeah, I have the same problem.

I got a MC from George at RDS and it's been sitting in a box for a week.

I think I'm going to take the fender off to do it.

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  #3  
Old March 30th, 2004, 02:13 PM
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I wrote this up when I did miine:

1. Remove the bonnet. I initially tried to bypass this step but it gets in
the way, and is so easy to take off that it doesn't make sense not to remove
it.

2. Remove the brake master cylinder from the front of the brake servo
(don't forget the wires). If you can leave it loose without fully removing
it, then you won't have to worry about the plunger inside the servo. If you
want to make things really easy but add a little work, remove the brake
lines from the master cylinder and remove it completely. But then you'll
need to bleed your brakes so I didn't do that.

3. To get more movement from the brake lines (which are running over the
top of the clutch pedal box), remove the first plastic retainer that holds
them to the bulkhead.

4. Remove the vacuum line to the brake servo. I also removed the vacuum
accumulator sphere that's attached to the fenderwell. This gives a little
more room to work in there.

5. Inside the cab, remove the two springs on the brake pedal (pedal end
only) and the six bolts that attach the brake pedal box to the bulkhead (you
may have to remove some panels to access all the bolts). You should be able
to move the pedal box/servo towards the passenger side to give more
clearance for getting the clutch pedal box out. That's the objective
here -- to get just enough room to remove the clutch pedal box. So don't
move things excessively since the brake lines are still attached to the
brake master cylinder and you don't want to kink these.

6. Now to the clutch. Remove the line at the slave cylinder and drain as
much fluid as possible. I didn't do this and regretted it. Then remove the
line where it attaches to the master cylinder.

7. Inside the cab, remove the six bolts that attach the pedal box to the
bulkhead. The return spring will come off with one of these bolts. Remove
the rubber cover from the pedal. This reduces the size of the pedal which
needs to be withdrawn through the rectangular opening that is already too
small for it to be pulled straight out.

8. Back in the engine compartment, pull the clutch pedal box out by
lifting, rotating slightly (clockwise), and moving the pedal to about a
mid-position. This is the trickiest part. It will come out but you need to
orient it just right. The pedal is larger than the opening if you try to
pull it straight out which is why you need to rotate it. Also, I found that
moving the pedal arm to a more mid-position made it come out easier
(although I squirted myself with brake fluid since I didn't have all the
fluid removed). During this time you also need to keep the brake pedal
box/servo and brake lines pushed out of the way.

9. Once the clutch pedal box is removed from the vehicle, it is much easier
to work on. I can't imagine trying to replace the master cylinder in the
vehicle.

10. Remove the top cover on the pedal box (held on by six screws). If your
clutch was working properly before (i.e. it just started leaking fluid and
the pedal stroke was normal), note the position of the adjusting nuts so you
can replicate it during assembly. Remove the locknut at the end of the
master cylinder shaft (move the pedal to get it into a easier position to
access it). Remove the two bolts that secure the master cylinder to the
pedal box. These are loose fasteners and not studs which makes it a tedious
two person job if you try to work on it in the vehicle. Remove the master
cylinder from the pedal box. Remove the two locknuts and washers from
threaded shaft.

11. Install the two locknuts and washer on the new master cylinder.
Install the new master cylinder on the pedal box. Install the washer and
locknut. I made all of my adjustments at this stage because it's much more
difficult to do when the pedal box is in the vehicle.

12. Reverse the steps for disassembly and bleed the system.
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  #4  
Old March 30th, 2004, 07:32 PM
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Jim Cheney
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I just did mine last week, and not to reiterate the good write-up from Ryan, I'll just highlight my major issues.

- like said above, open the bleeder on the slave and pump out as much fluid as you can before you start. I didnt and made a mess.

- I ordered the Master, Slave, and flex hose so I thought I was good to go. Unfortunately I ruined the hard line because the fitting was frozen in place. Order that part too, because it is only another 13.50.

- Maneuvering around the braker servo is a total pain, but easier if you remove the clutch spring before lifting out the pedal box. This give you the play you need to finesse it out. Otherwise the pedal snaps fore & aft.

- For replacing the flexi, it is easier to remove the bracket from the bellhousing and remove the slave, flexi, and short hard-line as a unit.

- May as well do all 4 parts at one time. They are cheap enough that it makes little sense to do it piecemeal.


FWIW
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  #5  
Old March 30th, 2004, 08:08 PM
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I just removed my brake servo when I did mine. It was time to flush the brake fluid anyway.
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  #6  
Old May 18th, 2004, 01:01 PM
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clutch pedal oil leak

I have an oil slick below my clutch pedal. The oil is dripping down and seems to be coming from above and right of the pedal as it also hits the upper right corner of the pedal rubber pad and then pools on the floor of the cab. It is a small amount, but by the end of the week, I have a good tablespoon or so to mop up. I assume I have a leaky gasket or something.
Any ideas on a solution to fix it?
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  #7  
Old May 18th, 2004, 01:32 PM
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Paul,
Same thing happend to my 110. Most likely it is the Clutch Master. Suggest replacing Master and Clutch Slave and Flushing all Brake fluid when you do it. It not an easy task, but there are some articles running around. I will try and find if I saved one. I wimped out and had the dealer do it. Cheers! COSteve
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  #8  
Old May 18th, 2004, 01:46 PM
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Ken Loy
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Rebuild kits are available from RN.
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  #9  
Old May 18th, 2004, 02:05 PM
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Give British Pacific a call. I rebuilt my slave cylinder a year ago and if I remember right the kit was very cheap.
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  #10  
Old May 18th, 2004, 02:15 PM
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Probably hardly worth rebuilding either unless the bores are perfect. They're not that expensiveand a real pain if the seals fail after a rebuild because you've got to do it all over again
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  #11  
Old May 18th, 2004, 02:37 PM
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Mike & Ryan I guess I should have done mine when I rebuilt my brake master! DA
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  #12  
Old May 18th, 2004, 02:58 PM
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I agree with Mike, it's not an easy task and if something else is wrong you have to do it all over again.
I attempted it after ruining I don't know how many pairs of leather shoes... then I just brought it down to a shop and they did it for $150 (I had the part in hand though).

After I bloodied my knuckles on it for 2 days... then blew the whole cylinder out... it was a real mess... It was the one job I've had to do on the truck that I failed miserably at...

(hiding my head in shame...)

LOL... Good luck Sir~!

Oh, and make sure it doesn't hit your 'painted' floorboard and soak in because then... just say goodbye to your paint... brake fluid ate right through the bed liner stuff I put on the floorpan like it was butter!

What a nightmare it was...

Nicholas
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  #13  
Old May 18th, 2004, 03:00 PM
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Reminder

If you do it yourself, be sure to ONLY use Castrol LMA brake fluid and a Motive Bleeder is a good 50.00 investment! COSteve
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  #14  
Old May 18th, 2004, 03:09 PM
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Yeah, like everyone said, it's best to by a new master cylinder since this a job you won't want to do twice. I kept my old cylinder, and was planning on having it sleeved by the place that Craig Reece recommended a while back.

Regarding the Motive Pressure Bleeder, here's a word of caution. Last weekend, I was going to flush my clutch circuit (something I'm doing to try to make the cylinder last longer). So I hook up the pressure bleeder, and start pumping it up. The pressure went up to about 10 psi, and then the bleeder started hissing. Next thing I know, I have a fountain of brake fluid shooting straight up. The bleeder pump had sprung a leak, and it was a major mess. Spoke to Motive, and they think it's a check valve at the bottom of the pump that failed. Anyway, morale of the story is, if you use one of these bleeders: 1) check to see if it holds pressure without brake fluid first, and 2) throw a rag or towel over it while you're using it so if it does spring a leak you minimize the mess.
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  #15  
Old May 18th, 2004, 03:37 PM
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Rovers Down South has a master cylinder for $150 on there site.
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  #16  
Old May 18th, 2004, 04:00 PM
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Thanks all.
I just posted a bit on a thread about ' putting a jeep part in a D-90'. This is one of those Zen things that gets the real deal here.

Again, appreciate all the input. Time to get dirty.
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  #17  
Old May 20th, 2004, 04:32 AM
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I just bought a new MC from thatchedroofgarage who had the best price on lucas girling.

I got the new MC in (WORST JOB EVER! I put it off for a year I was dreading it so much) but I need a new nut as the money before me rounded it off, VORed in through the dealer and it will in today.

Took me about an hour to get the old one off and the new one in, and I am usually pretty quick with repairs. gearwrench speed things up. 1/4in drive socket set and ideally a stubby 13mm, stubby 1/2in flare wrench (if they make such a thing!) would have been ideal. Oh, and long arms.
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Old May 20th, 2004, 04:32 AM
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i did it without touching the brake assembly.

Ron
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  #19  
Old September 1st, 2004, 08:57 AM
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Rich Campbell
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clutch question

Hi,
Recently I have felt an odd feeling when bringing the clutch pedal up. Every once and a while it just seems different feeling maybe it is slipping, but I'm not sure. Anyone have any suggestions.
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  #20  
Old September 1st, 2004, 09:20 AM
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Check the fluid level, when the Master Cylinder goes bad the pedal will return slowly.
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