Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Leak Merged Threadfest - Page 8 - Defender Source
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  #141  
Old December 28th, 2007, 09:22 AM
texmoto
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david summers
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Sounds alot like the clutch master cylinder. Mine has the same leak. The leak is around the main seal and drips down the shaft that attaches to the pedal. Looking at the outside of the cylinder will show no signs of a drip. Need to change mine, but everyone tells me it is a real PITA.
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  #142  
Old December 28th, 2007, 09:29 AM
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It could easily be the master, leaking into the footwell and eating all the paint under your floormat, or the slave could actually be leaking into the bellhousing.
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  #143  
Old December 28th, 2007, 09:51 AM
JBOD77
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Jonathan
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So without removing the floor board it would be impossible to see??? because the interior floor board is in perfect shape, no oil, no rust, still painted. I should be able to see it from underneath the truck looking up in that general area no??
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  #144  
Old December 28th, 2007, 10:03 AM
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barry f
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Mine leaked. Not on the floor so I am assuming it was the slave. Had it replaced.
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  #145  
Old December 28th, 2007, 10:07 AM
JBOD77
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Jonathan
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barry how much did that run you if you don't mind? I now the master is like 100 and the slave is like 40-50 but what's the labor??
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  #146  
Old December 28th, 2007, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBOD77
So without removing the floor board it would be impossible to see??? because the interior floor board is in perfect shape, no oil, no rust, still painted. I should be able to see it from underneath the truck looking up in that general area no??
? Removing the floor board? If you lift the mat and there is no mess, then the master is not likely at fault (except on the off chance its leaking into the booster - which happens but is kinda odd).

The slave is about the easiest thing on the truck to replace aside from a wing top vent. It takes about 20 minutes.
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  #147  
Old December 28th, 2007, 10:18 AM
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barry f
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I actually had both replaced at the same time. The shop I brought it to said that most places do both because either way they have to rebleed the system. I would have to look for the receipt which I will when I get out of bed but I have a feeling the labor was pricey.
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  #148  
Old December 28th, 2007, 10:43 AM
JBOD77
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Jim - So there is no mess under the mat. Is there any way to tell if it's the slave or if it is the master is leaking into the booster?

Barry - Thanks for the info. I was thinking of doing both anyway cause the parts are reasonable but I've heard conflicting reviews of the labor needed to do the master. That could make all the difference. Since it's not leaking into the truck ruining my floor I could keep going like this and just keep feeding it fluid every couple of weeks but I would like the piece of mind of having it fixed.

Thanks again for the help and info guys. Sometimes I feel like this truck is trying to break me down.
I won't let it win!!!!
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  #149  
Old December 28th, 2007, 12:23 PM
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Oh it'll win...you'll see

Disco, Defender, Land Rover always wins, especially if you have the dealer replace parts because they have to bleed them. That's them bleeding you. Below is a post from another Land Rover Web page.

"Finally, let me give you some realistic advice about the oil pissing money pit you just bought. Although this is a hackneyed statement:

the day you bought that thing and the day you sell it will be your two favorite days.

Here's what's going to happen:

Since you bought it at a million miles, shit is going to break left and right. Even if some dbag who owned it before had some shit like 'one owner, dealer serviced' in the ad when he posted it for sale, it's still going to break. Even if the only off road it saw was when the asshole who owned it before you was when his wife backed it out of the garage and hit a rhododendron, it's going to break.

The idler for the serpentine belt is going to seize when the bearing heats up with no grease in it. If you're lucky, this will happen when you're driving into your driveway. I say lucky as when it goes, you no longer have power steering (probably doesn't work anyway, but I'll get to that later), and you also no longer have a working alternator. Oh, btw, the alternator is going to start squealing at some point, so you're going to have to replace that. Might as well get that while you're replacing the idler. OH! And grab a new belt while you're at it. Ok, back to the steering. The power steering pump is going to leak from every seal, pipe, cap, bolt, etc. Don't bother trying to fix it, just keep fluid with you and top it off when you get gas. You'll be doing that all the time since the pig gets like 12 mpg. Oh! and you're supposed to put hi octane in it, so be prepared to bend over once or twice a week when you fill it up. When you're ordering the parts above, might as well order the oil cooler pipes that pass by the radiator on the drivers side as they are going to rust through and piss oil everywhere on your way to work. Oh, another thing to add to the list. Replace all the wheel bearings unless you want them to suddenly fail on the highway and weld themselves to the spindle, while yanking the steering wheel out of your hand. It will be so sudden that you may think that you jerked the steering wheel while waking up after passing out while driving. It's great that you got the disco with two sunroofs since one or both is going to fail. Save up for some steel wheels because the alloy wheels on it are going to be useless after a few trips off road. Oh, more stuff to order - diff protectors since the paper ones that came with this beautiful truck are likely to piss like a scared little girl when the first stick pokes at them. Steering protection for the pencil thin tie rods. Oh! Almost forgot, the rattling you hear is the cats that have shit the bed. Order those. Oh! Might as well order some exhaust manifolds and gaskets since those are either cracked or about to crack. Do you have a dog? Do yourself a favor and order new hinges for the rear door. If not, it's going to break when you're on your way to get coffee at 5:30 in the morning while fido is in the way back. You'll hear a little squeak from the canine and look in your rear view mirror. For a second, you're brain is going to process what it's seeing. Yes, it's seeing your dog sitting in the back while the door is wide open, hanging on one hinge. BTW, the heavy duty hinges from Atlantic British are $150 bucks. I almost wrote 'probably worth it', but 150 bucks for fucking hinges! Are you kidding me! Since you're into the tune up and other crap up above for a couple k, might as well get the checkbook out for a few more things. Get a snorkle. It's like 400 of the best dollars you'll ever spend. (I'm kidding about that one, almost no one NEEDS a snorkle). Order the 100 dollar lift kit from ebay. You can put that on when you're fixing the hole in the diff because you decided to buy that snorkle instead of diff covers. Oh! back to your question. That hard shift is one of about 10 things. Get the checkbook out again and order a front driveshaft, that's probably gone, even if it's not the source of the hard shifting. Forgive me for forgetting what this piece is called, but there is some stupid flex disk somewhere in the rear driveshaft near the ujoints - that' s probably gone. Oh! Order u joints and put those on when you're under there putting the ebay 100 dollar lift in. Oh, one more thing for the checkbook while it's jacked up - order 4 new rotors and pads. Maybe you can make it a weekend and do the uj's, lift, wheel bearings, rotors, and pads. And steel wheels. OOh! You can spend an hour or so playing 'find the rust'. It's on the rear wheelwell inside the door, a lot hidden in the front fenders - not the fender part, the inner fenders. Doors probably have some rust too. Just get some por 15 in the color of your choice and spread it on. Don't forget to peel up the carpet as all that sound deadening material rover put on there to make you think the truck is 'quiet' actually trapped ever molecule of moisture that ever went in the truck since the day it came off the build line.

Just wanted you to know what you're in for. FWIW, I LOVED my disco, and unfortunately sold it to someone local so my kids have to tell me 'daddy, we saw your truck, someone else was driving it'."
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  #150  
Old December 28th, 2007, 01:03 PM
JBOD77
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That's fantastic....chock full o' bitterness....but fantastic. So like a boat owners 2 happiest days, so are the land rover owners! FWIW the truck has 30k original miles on it. Saw the beach some but, remarkably has little rust and it is in descent shape. Lucky for me I've already replaced most of the shit on that list. And it will never see a dealership unless I'm going there to buy a new LR3 or previously owned Disco 2.
All my life I always wanted a defender. It won't win, it's the love of my life.
Coincidentally I said the same thing about my wife and she wins all the time.
(never thought I would ever use those smilies!
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  #151  
Old December 28th, 2007, 01:23 PM
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barry f
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Just checked. 348 in labor for the work to replace both etc
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  #152  
Old December 28th, 2007, 01:23 PM
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yeah dude I'm the same way. I have 2 discos (95/97) and a D90 I'm building from the ground up. Just sold a series III that I did a frame off. Just love the hobby of working on them so they're good for that.
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  #153  
Old December 28th, 2007, 02:09 PM
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barry f
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As for low mileage never off road. Here is the list of things I have done to my defender since July. It has 48,000 miles on it.
New shocks
New cats
New slave and master clutch cylinders
Reweld passenger seat ala ECR method to stop rattle
Stainless screw kit
New hinge bolts for the rear door
New tires
New wipers
New mirrors (convex)
Oil filter magnet
Stainless oil cooler lines
Radiator leak repair
New badger top
Slickrock skid plate
New fuel pump, breather tube, filler tube, rollover valves and seals.

I had a leak on the top of my gas tank so I replaced everything. Fuel pump was fine but since it all had to come down anyway. That reminds me I have a good used pump for sale if anyone needs it or wants it.

Follow-up Post:

Oh and a new drivers side seat cushion
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  #154  
Old December 28th, 2007, 02:16 PM
JBOD77
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Jonathan
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But barry just look at your avatar. Your D90 is and off road machine!
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  #155  
Old December 28th, 2007, 02:22 PM
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just do all the parts at once. They're so cheap that its more of an inconvenience to order them and do the job twice than it is to just do it all at once.

you can pay a shop to do it if you want, but its only a half day, or a full day with plenty of rest for beer and BS.
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  #156  
Old December 28th, 2007, 02:35 PM
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John Crouse
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Clutch

I recommend replacing Master, slave and the flex huse above the slave together. I replaced a leaky slave only to have the master fail a week later. I have heard many owners describe the same turn of events.

The slave is simple to replace. Took me twenty minutes. Same with the flex hose. The master is a bit more involved, but not all that bad.
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  #157  
Old December 28th, 2007, 02:49 PM
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Only risk is frozen fittings, which is why I recommend doing all at once. I destroyed my original hardlines one time because they were all rusted up and the fittings wouldnt turn.
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  #158  
Old December 28th, 2007, 03:11 PM
JBOD77
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Can I do any damage by just feeding it fluid and waiting until all the parts come in?
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  #159  
Old December 28th, 2007, 03:34 PM
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Do damage? No, but I predict it goes south quickly, and could strand you somewhere with a dead pedal.
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  #160  
Old December 28th, 2007, 03:37 PM
JBOD77
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fair advice. So master cylinder, slave cylinder and, flex hose. No other lines or hoses?
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