Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Leak Merged Threadfest - Page 5 - Defender Source
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  #81  
Old September 14th, 2006, 03:32 PM
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Dennis Lynch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy salmon
for the cost its not worth rebuiling, get the complete cylinder. bit of a bastard to do tho. i did mine not long ago. if you need a hand you could always bring your truck over and i'll help ya
I appreciate the offer, but this is outside my realm of automotive expertise. You would be doing all the work and I would be passing you the tools and holding the light.
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  #82  
Old September 14th, 2006, 03:52 PM
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you still have time to overnight it with D.A.P. i could do it sunday morning for you. you pass the guinness
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  #83  
Old September 14th, 2006, 04:51 PM
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Bryan Tate
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I have had a mechanic adjust mine with pliers and it mars the rod that it seems to tear the seals premature. At least that's what I think, no leak.....adjusts it and tears it up, then it leaks
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  #84  
Old September 14th, 2006, 05:00 PM
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Ken Loy
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Rebuild it. It's easy.
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  #85  
Old September 14th, 2006, 05:04 PM
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Steve Maietta
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There is a place that will take your old master and bore it out, insert a brass sleeve and then get it to blueprint specs. For CHEAPER than a new OEM. This plus a new seal kit and youre good for a long time. I had mine sleeved two years ago or so and I've had no problems since. The stock masters are cast aluminum and this soft metal wears out pretty quick. With the brass sleeve you're set... I got the name of the place off the Yahoogroup D90 list, Im sure its still there in the archives, or you could probably google it..

Removing and replacing is a pain in the ass, but not impossible for the average LRO. Take the hood off, and away you go. The master housing is held to the bulkhead (firewall) with 6 or 8 bolts and the whole assembly comes out.. A good time to battle any corrosion. One thing I forgot to do is seal the assembly back to the bulkhead with silicone or some sort of sealer, now when it rains I get wet feet!

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  #86  
Old September 14th, 2006, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy salmon
you still have time to overnight it with D.A.P. i could do it sunday morning for you. you pass the guinness

Anyone who would replace a clutch master cylinder for you is a friend indeed!!!


Neil, I saw a tech note in a Rovers North catalog that said you should use Castrol LMA brake fluid instead of the usual stuff. I had been using synthetic high dollar something or another when I developed a leaky clutch m cylinder. When I took it apart it had some black stuff settled in the bottom of the resevoir. I can't say for sure but I think the synthetic fluid I used dissolved the seal. I have switched to the Castrol LMA and haven't had anymore trouble. I also use it in the brakes.
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  #87  
Old September 15th, 2006, 12:17 AM
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Jim Cheney
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The place that sleeves cylinders is called White Post Restorations, just do a google.
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  #88  
Old September 15th, 2006, 01:36 PM
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Neil McCauley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snuffer
Anyone who would replace a clutch master cylinder for you is a friend indeed!!!


Neil, I saw a tech note in a Rovers North catalog that said you should use Castrol LMA brake fluid instead of the usual stuff. I had been using synthetic high dollar something or another when I developed a leaky clutch m cylinder. When I took it apart it had some black stuff settled in the bottom of the resevoir. I can't say for sure but I think the synthetic fluid I used dissolved the seal. I have switched to the Castrol LMA and haven't had anymore trouble. I also use it in the brakes.
Hey thanks, Im gonna try that when I change it out, and I'm going to adjust the bolt according to the thread I saw here. I'm so glad I found this site. This forum actually changes lives! ::tear::

Neil
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  #89  
Old September 15th, 2006, 03:23 PM
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I had a place called Sierra Specialty Automotive (Quincy, CA 530-283-1886) sleeve my clutch cylinder a few years ago. They charged $65. I haven't used it as I was saving it for a spare.

After going through the pain of changing out the clutch master cylinder, I started routinely flushing out the lines (easy if you have a Power Bleeder). Figured it would clear out the debris and moisture, and hopefully prevent problems. I never had an issue after that.
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  #90  
Old December 22nd, 2006, 04:55 PM
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Chuck Hester
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Clutch master and/or slave cyl goes south

My clutch was so kind to give up the ghost some 15 miles from home the other day. Probably the slave cyl...but could be the master too. At any rate, I haven't had time to test out which it is yet. Chris from RN told me an easy way to tell is to clamp the flex line and push in the clutch. If the clutch feels normal, the master is fine...replace the slave. FYI - Chris also told me he's getting more requests for these parts than normal and we may be nearing an end-of-life cycle for these parts.

Santa - Could you please send me a master and slave cyl. for xmas? Thanks, Chuck. PS - I've been especially good this year and I wouldn't be upset if I found a new Badger soft top under the tree too. Thanks.
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  #91  
Old December 22nd, 2006, 05:05 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Let me know if you know where to buy an original
(lockheed) slave cylinder, i just changed master
cylinder and i want to match.
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  #92  
Old December 22nd, 2006, 07:43 PM
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chuck, if I was you, I would change both no matter what and the flex hose. If one goes, the next is not far behind and then you have to bleed and take stuff apart again. Do it all at once...
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  #93  
Old December 22nd, 2006, 08:02 PM
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nate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy
Do it all at once...

Like, for serious. I did them seperately. That sucked.
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  #94  
Old December 22nd, 2006, 10:56 PM
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Tom Rowe
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I third that on replacing both and the flex line all at the same time.
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  #95  
Old December 23rd, 2006, 05:08 AM
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Mike Hammond
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That's just what I was going to suggest.
All the Cr*p that gets pumped around as the seas fail does no good what so ever the the cylinder thats left which then fails, and you get to do all the bleeding twice. In my experience the master never self primes and I end up using the easy bleed with the cap that never quite fits, hydraulic fluid gets squirted everywhere tempers get frayed abd its a steady downhill spiral from then on
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  #96  
Old December 23rd, 2006, 08:16 AM
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Chuck Hester
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Sounds like doing both isn't such a bad idea...np. I have found both the master and slave...anybody know where I can get the flex line? I'm having a hard time finding it online. Part No. would be great.
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  #97  
Old December 23rd, 2006, 03:05 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvrchuck
...I have found both the master and slave...
Can you say where did you find slave cylinder ?

Thanks
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  #98  
Old December 24th, 2006, 10:20 AM
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Chuck Hester
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www.roversnorth.com

Slave part number RNE222
Master part number PLF289

~$130 for both.
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  #99  
Old January 1st, 2007, 12:17 PM
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Bob Hanson AKA Two-Socks
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I am kinda frustrated too. I got the MC and Slave from George at Rovers Down South but no matter how I DESCRIBED the flex line...I couldn't get the description to transfer to a part. Does anyone know the part # for the flex line?
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  #100  
Old January 1st, 2007, 03:07 PM
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Chuck Hester
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The flex line part# NRC2211 is in stock for $24.79 at Rovers North. Just rec'd mine this weekend. I should have everything done by tomorrow...now the fun part...how to get the rover to the shop...
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