Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Leak Merged Threadfest - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old November 12th, 2004, 06:32 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Sure you can, there is a lot of wiggle room depending on how far the pedal is threaded onto the actuating rod. The big fat manual has some specs, but the jist of it is this:

-Take top plate off of clutch pedal housing (engine bay side).
-Slacken both front and rear nuts on the operating rod to yield play in the pedal.
-Adjust pedal stop bolt (on the front of the housing) so that the pedal is 5.5 inches off the floor in the released position.
-Move the actuating rod or out to acheive more or less travel and put the point of engagement where you want it.
-Tighten everything back up and make sure there is at least 1/4" of travel before the engaging.

Repeat the procedures until you are happy.
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  #42  
Old November 13th, 2004, 12:08 AM
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Sounds like you may not have all the air bled out of the system. There is another thing that could be going on though. The throwout bearing has a plastic housing. I have seen the engagement points on the housing become worn. And then it makes the clutch engage in the manner you describe.
The pushrod at the clutch pedal can do this also. But if it is adjusted correctly then the throwout bearing housing is the culprit.
You can replace the throwout bearing to correct this. But I have also made a longer pushrod at the clutch slave cylinder to prevent replacing the bearing housing. It involves some estimating.

JP
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  #43  
Old June 18th, 2005, 06:14 PM
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Jesse McCoy
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Clutch fluid reservoir

I recently noticed this is located directly under my clutch pedal.

Where should I start? Anybody know what part(s) I'll have to replace now?

Thanks
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  #44  
Old June 18th, 2005, 07:04 PM
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all the clutch hydraulics are pretty cheap - do them all at once and save tearing it up several times. Order a master cylinder, slave cylinder, flex hose, and both hard lines. The hard lines arent strictly necessary, but they are easy to damage and you wont know if they're gonna break until they do.
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  #45  
Old June 18th, 2005, 10:50 PM
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consider also the rebuild kit. much cheaper. there are lots of discussions in the forum and in the FAQ that you need to read and re-read. It's kinda pain in the ass because it's such a confined space and tough to work in, but totally do-able. Jim has probably done this twenty times to my one time so I won't second-guess him on the hyd lines, but I found that by being VERY careful, I was able to avoid that problem.

g'luck
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  #46  
Old June 18th, 2005, 11:11 PM
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Ken's right, you can save a few bucks by using the rebuild kit, and the lines _can_ come out OK, but mine had either corroded or been overtorqued previously, so they self-destructed when I pulled them out. After having to fabricate a line to get the truck back on the road, I was very amused to find the lines were 15 dollars for the long one and like 12 for the short. I'm just once-bitten/twice shy on the issue on the issue of the hard lines because they'll make a 2 hour job take all day and/or have your Rover laid up for a week while you await a new shipment.
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  #47  
Old June 18th, 2005, 11:22 PM
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haha, Jim. My "2 hour project" took about a week of evenings. That area is just a SOB to work in...

(I won't tell you how long my 1 year house remodeling job is taking me)
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  #48  
Old June 19th, 2005, 11:57 AM
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Jesse McCoy
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Thanks guys, looks like that RN gift card is gonna come in handy...
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  #49  
Old June 20th, 2005, 01:33 AM
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These will help too.
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...referrerid=433
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...=clutch+master

I pull the break/servo unit than lay into the clutch MS. I did this the second time I had to replace it. Saved me from doing my impression of a sailer
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  #50  
Old June 20th, 2005, 04:15 PM
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sweet! that should save me some time. Thanks again
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  #51  
Old June 29th, 2005, 08:43 AM
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i have around 60K on my d90 i just bought and am getting the same issue.
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  #52  
Old June 29th, 2005, 12:59 PM
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Be sure to use Castrol LMA when you re-assemble. I am convinced that the dealer used something else the first time I had my clutch replaced after it started to leak after 18 months, and there was black sludge in the reservoir when I replaced it again last month. My 2c!
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  #53  
Old August 4th, 2005, 01:23 PM
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slave cylendar?

So i just replaced the clutch master cylinder, and i was wondering, how crucial is it to replace the slave now? Does replacing it mean tearing everything out again like was necessary with the clutch master cyinder? Also, what exactly does the slave do? any help would be greatly appreciated.
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  #54  
Old August 4th, 2005, 01:34 PM
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the slave is actually easier to replace than the master because there is better working space, doesnt require removal of the hood, and doesnt make a mess of your fire wall when all the fluid leaks out. its cheap enough that you may as well replace it at the same time as the master.

as far as what it does, you press on the clutch pedal which actuates the master cylinder (containing a lot of fluid). when you do this, the fluid pipe (containing a comparitively small volume) transfers fluid to the slave clylinder (larger volume than pipe) which disengages the clutch. When you release the clutch pedal, the clutch springs back, the fluid is displaced in reverse, and the pedal comes back out. its a simple hydraulic system that works great if it isnt leaking.
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  #55  
Old December 1st, 2005, 09:12 PM
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This Darn Clutch!!

I have searched and read all the threads I could locate on clutch hydraulic issues and not one (that I could find) accurately depicts this particular issue...

I have worked on many clutches and have never encountered this situation. The clutch is not losing fluid in any percievable amount, but it will lose hydraulic pressure and allow the clutch to engage if I hold the pedal down for any time. Again, as quickly as it bleeds down. given the very small reservior, I would expect to see some loss in fluid. If I pump it several times, it will work for a bit. Then later I will press in the clutch, it will disengage, and slowly re-engage the clutch. All the while, not losing fluid. It started doing this all of the sudden. I have repeatedly checked the fluid and still, no loss of fluid and no sign of fluid leakage. I have bled the system several times. Up until today, it was working normally, then ker-pow. Is there something I am missing? I though the intake for fluid out of the reservior was shut off after the piston passes it by, preventing leakage on the back side of the piston? Is it possible the valve is in front of the piston all the time and allowing fluid to constantly bleed back into the reservior? Any suggestions would be great, however, I broke down today and bought a new master and slave cause this is driving me nuts.

Oh, I know this is slack, but I did not want to bump-up my lame "does not run when warm" thread any more cause we NEVER figured out the cause! It (the Disco) is still sitting in my firends back yard and we have checked everything, including swapping every part possible (except the ECU - that is next.) Sorry I did not follow-up, but we nevery had anything worth following up with.

Thanks again guys aand gals!

Jeff
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  #56  
Old December 1st, 2005, 09:16 PM
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Do you mean its not losing fluid on the ground or that the resevoir hasnt depleted perceptably when you check it. I've heard about (you know, friend of a friend) who have had cylinders leak into the bell housing, disguising the leak. And it might be running down the inside of the bulkhead and collecting under your floor mat. Since the hard lines are pretty much static, the last (and wierdest) explanation I could think of would be a weak flex hose that was bulging for some reason.

How's that for a complete swag?
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  #57  
Old December 1st, 2005, 09:44 PM
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Could also be an internal piston leak in either the master or the slave. Instead of leaking fluid out of the system, it may be leaking back up into the reservoir. I believe that a problem like that could only occur in the master, and not the slave.

-Hans
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  #58  
Old December 1st, 2005, 10:36 PM
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Thanks guys! Hans, I think you hit it, I just got off the phone with a friend of mine who does alot of cars and he said many master have a check valve that releases when the piston returns, he believes my check valve is not sealing allowing fluid to basically pump back into the reservior. Yes Jim, actually both, or er neither. THe fluid int he reservior has not changed one iota and there is no fluid evidence anywhere around, under mats, around bellhousing, on firewall engine or passenger side. No where. This is what was so perplexing. So, a new MC it is. I am going to replace the slave also though just cause I am done messing with it. Thanks again guys!
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  #59  
Old December 4th, 2005, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
Could also be an internal piston leak in either the master or the slave. Instead of leaking fluid out of the system, it may be leaking back up into the reservoir. I believe that a problem like that could only occur in the master, and not the slave.

-Hans
It sounds like a bad seal/ bore in the master cylinder letting fluid past and back into the reservoir as Hans said. If you go for a rebuild kit make sure that the bore if perfect - no scratches or pits that could tear up the seal.
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  #60  
Old December 4th, 2005, 06:25 PM
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Thanks Mike, and all. I have new slave and master on the way. Thanks again!

Jeff
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