Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Leak Merged Threadfest - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old September 1st, 2004, 09:27 AM
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Rich Campbell
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Thanks....mike.
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  #22  
Old September 1st, 2004, 12:02 PM
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Jim Cheney
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My slave cylinder crapped out here a while back and here is the summary:

- Initially I experienced a strage pedal feel like you describe, which was remedied short-term by more fluid. Things went south quickly and I soon had to put my foot behind the pedal to get it to fully return. Driveability was degrading the whole time. It took a total of 10 days to go from normal to non-functional.

- I ordered a new Master Cylinder, Slave Cylinder, and Flex Line from George at RDS (total about 110 bucks) I ruined the Hard Line too and had to replace it also. While a PITA to do the job because of clearances and stuff, I was able to fix the problem in 6-8 hour Saturday's worth of work.

If you need more detail, let me know. I can give you a write up that will help you more than the manuals.
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  #23  
Old September 1st, 2004, 12:19 PM
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Phillip
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what kinda milage did yall have on your trucks when this stuff started to die/needtobereplace?
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  #24  
Old September 1st, 2004, 01:07 PM
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100k for me when my MC died.
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  #25  
Old September 1st, 2004, 01:14 PM
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Rich Campbell
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I have 84k. Mike if I check the level and it needs some fluid do you think that means the MC is ok? If it is full is it on the way out?
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  #26  
Old September 1st, 2004, 04:31 PM
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Jim Cheney
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I had 133k when mine went TU.

My fluid level looked normal also, but having any leak at all in the system makes it spongy or makes the reurn sticky.

Also, the slave can leak into the bell housing and you'll never notice it.
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  #27  
Old September 7th, 2004, 02:30 PM
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Rich Campbell
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Replaced fluid solved the problem. I think I got some air/ water in the line somehow.
Thanks
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  #28  
Old September 7th, 2004, 05:40 PM
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Andrew Tokarz
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Mine died at 35k. I was not happy
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  #29  
Old September 15th, 2004, 01:28 PM
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Matt Wunderle
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Unhappy Clutch Pedal Problem

I am having a small drip on the inside of my 90 right above the clutch pedal. It appears that the seals above the pedal are leaking. It has leaked about a teaspoon over the last week. The has been no change in the clutch operation of shifting though. Can I just replace the seal, replace the whole unit or let it go and just keep adding fluid? Help, MAR is just two weeks away.

Matt...
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  #30  
Old September 15th, 2004, 02:20 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Ours had a leak for a little while, and we just kept adding fluid. then it started to get worse. At one point, I was driving, and the clutch lost all functionality. I ended up getting it home by shifting CAREFULLY without the clutch, and luckily I made all the stop lights without having to stop. We ended up having to replace the master cylinder. It sounds like yours is leaking from a different place though. Maybe the slave cylinder? I'm sure someone else on here will know better.
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  #31  
Old September 15th, 2004, 02:44 PM
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Matt Wunderle
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I have searched high and low on the bulkhead ond outside of the truck. The leak is definatly coming from the rubber area just above the clutch pedal. It is actually leaking on the two tension springs.
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  #32  
Old September 15th, 2004, 02:46 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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I guess it could be coming from the same place as the Master cylinder is located right above the clutch pedal. However, when mine was leaking, it dripped off the front of the bulkhead, and never went inside. I would pop the hood and reach your hand under the master cylinder to see if you can find any sort of a leak. I'll see If I can do some checking on my Rave CD to better locate the seals you are talking about.
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  #33  
Old September 15th, 2004, 04:55 PM
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I can tell you for certain that it is your master cylinder - but this piece is not expensive - just replace it entirely.

Just FYI (I dont know how much you know about your clutch - sorry if this is beneath you) - there are 6 main components to your clutch:
1) pedal assembly
2) master clyinder
3) hard fluid line
4) short flexi hose
5) short hard line
6) slave cylinder mounted to bellhousing

my master and slave went bad around the same time. Just replace the whole set-up (not including the pedal obviously). Its about 175 bucks in parts for everything if you dont go directly to a Land Rover dealer. I got all my stuff from George at RDS, but I dont know how he's doing with the hurricane right now. Just let me know if you need more info.
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  #34  
Old September 20th, 2004, 09:24 AM
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Drip on the clutch pedal is the classic sign your clutch master cylinder on its way out. Personally, I wouldn't bother replacing the seals, just replace the whole unit with an OE 'Lucas Girling' replacement if possible.
Don't try to swap the unit in situ. Remove the complete pedal assembly from the truck and replace the master cylinder on the floor/workbench.

Kev
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  #35  
Old September 20th, 2004, 10:31 AM
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Dave Souza
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As Kev and Jim say, it's definitely your clutch master cylinder. I also second replacing the slave cylinder at the same time... Mine both went within 3 months of each other (master first). I didn't change any hoses though, perhaps I should have.
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  #36  
Old September 20th, 2004, 12:07 PM
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Ken Loy
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Matt, If you search the forum, I think you'll see some posts about this replacement/repair. I rebuilt my master cylinder with new seals that I ordered from RN (I think). The rebuild is super simple. The bitch is getting to all the nuts and bolts in this very inaccessible area. Small hands and double-joints are a big help.

Guys have mentioned that it's better to replace the whole master cylinder rather than rebuild. Can y'all explain why a new one is that much better? The bore was smooth in mine and after rebuilding, I haven't had any problems at all.

When you replace the pedal box, I'd be sure to use some good gasket/sealer to be sure that no water can drip back into the cab. I thought I had mine right, but every now and again, the toes get damp.

Mechanical skills needed are fairly low. Time to do it is moderate. Maybe 2-3 nights of work.
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  #37  
Old September 20th, 2004, 03:41 PM
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Jim Cheney
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I wasnt specifically advocating replacing versus rebuildng, but I had never rebuilt one before and wanted to get my truck on the road with minimum fuss. If I was doing it right now I might rebuild since the truck is disassembled anyway. Its just such a hassle that I only wanted to do it once with a known good part.
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  #38  
Old September 20th, 2004, 05:51 PM
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Ken Loy
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Jim, the kit is pretty straightforward. As I recall, it had a new plunger and a bunch of o-rings and it took about an hour or so to do. The cost difference is what made it for me.
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  #39  
Old November 12th, 2004, 04:30 PM
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Mike Doligalski
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Clutch Pedal Adjustment

I just had my clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and all of the bs associated with it replaced. The system works a lot better now (I don't have brake fluid all over the inside and I dont have to fill the system with brake fluid everytime I need to go somewhere). But now the friction point is up too high for my liking when I let the pedal out. The clutch doesn't engage until the pedal is almost all the way up. I just did a search on it and found a section in the FAQ:

http://www.defendersource.com/faq/Tr...ansClutch.html

I was wondering if anyone could give me a little more direction on how to adjust it. Thanks,
-Mike
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  #40  
Old November 12th, 2004, 05:34 PM
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Hmm, I don't think you can adjust a Hydraulic clutch.
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