Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Leak Merged Threadfest - Page 12 - Defender Source
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Old April 8th, 2014, 06:52 PM
lordhelemt's Avatar
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1995 D90 #2620 & NAS 110
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 990
That's a good price.

RIP 1994 D90 #999 (engine fire 2002). We'll miss you.
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Old April 10th, 2014, 02:32 AM
RyanS's Avatar
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'93 NAS 110
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 426
Mark - If you run into any problem, let me know. I'm running a ZF so no longer use the clutch master cylinder. I probably have my sleeved one laying around somewhere.

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Old April 10th, 2014, 06:02 AM
Overlander's Avatar
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mark kellgren
93' NAS 110- #234
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,503
Thanks Ryan! shipped my old girling off yesterday. I'm fine for now. Was just a drop. been getting a drop here and there for a while. last drop just reminded me of getting ahead of this.
Mark Kellgren

ISIL and al qaeda can go F*ck themselves...
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Old August 31st, 2014, 11:00 AM
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Robert Lynch
1995 NAS
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 1,671
Originally Posted by RyanS View Post
I wrote this up when I did miine:

1. Remove the bonnet. I initially tried to bypass this step but it gets in
the way, and is so easy to take off that it doesn't make sense not to remove

2. Remove the brake master cylinder from the front of the brake servo
(don't forget the wires). If you can leave it loose without fully removing
it, then you won't have to worry about the plunger inside the servo. If you
want to make things really easy but add a little work, remove the brake
lines from the master cylinder and remove it completely. But then you'll
need to bleed your brakes so I didn't do that.

3. To get more movement from the brake lines (which are running over the
top of the clutch pedal box), remove the first plastic retainer that holds
them to the bulkhead.

4. Remove the vacuum line to the brake servo. I also removed the vacuum
accumulator sphere that's attached to the fenderwell. This gives a little
more room to work in there.

5. Inside the cab, remove the two springs on the brake pedal (pedal end
only) and the six bolts that attach the brake pedal box to the bulkhead (you
may have to remove some panels to access all the bolts). You should be able
to move the pedal box/servo towards the passenger side to give more
clearance for getting the clutch pedal box out. That's the objective
here -- to get just enough room to remove the clutch pedal box. So don't
move things excessively since the brake lines are still attached to the
brake master cylinder and you don't want to kink these.

6. Now to the clutch. Remove the line at the slave cylinder and drain as
much fluid as possible. I didn't do this and regretted it. Then remove the
line where it attaches to the master cylinder.

7. Inside the cab, remove the six bolts that attach the pedal box to the
bulkhead. The return spring will come off with one of these bolts. Remove
the rubber cover from the pedal. This reduces the size of the pedal which
needs to be withdrawn through the rectangular opening that is already too
small for it to be pulled straight out.

8. Back in the engine compartment, pull the clutch pedal box out by
lifting, rotating slightly (clockwise), and moving the pedal to about a
mid-position. This is the trickiest part. It will come out but you need to
orient it just right. The pedal is larger than the opening if you try to
pull it straight out which is why you need to rotate it. Also, I found that
moving the pedal arm to a more mid-position made it come out easier
(although I squirted myself with brake fluid since I didn't have all the
fluid removed). During this time you also need to keep the brake pedal
box/servo and brake lines pushed out of the way.

9. Once the clutch pedal box is removed from the vehicle, it is much easier
to work on. I can't imagine trying to replace the master cylinder in the

10. Remove the top cover on the pedal box (held on by six screws). If your
clutch was working properly before (i.e. it just started leaking fluid and
the pedal stroke was normal), note the position of the adjusting nuts so you
can replicate it during assembly. Remove the locknut at the end of the
master cylinder shaft (move the pedal to get it into a easier position to
access it). Remove the two bolts that secure the master cylinder to the
pedal box. These are loose fasteners and not studs which makes it a tedious
two person job if you try to work on it in the vehicle. Remove the master
cylinder from the pedal box. Remove the two locknuts and washers from
threaded shaft.

11. Install the two locknuts and washer on the new master cylinder.
Install the new master cylinder on the pedal box. Install the washer and
locknut. I made all of my adjustments at this stage because it's much more
difficult to do when the pedal box is in the vehicle.

12. Reverse the steps for disassembly and bleed the system.
great steps to do it Ryan..
some added notes...

-Order all the lines 2 hard lines and the flex line. Return what you don't use but if you kink a hard line your SOL until it comes it. (experienced that

-I unclipped all the brake keepers on the firewall - gives some more room

-Removal of the clutch box is an exercise in patience since it has to spin to come out (its hard to say exactly how it happens but once you figure it out it goes from a 2 hour head scratcher to 2 minutes to get it done.
Defenders don't wear out they just need more parts.

95' D90 - daily driver..
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Old September 1st, 2014, 12:49 AM
RyanS's Avatar
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'93 NAS 110
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Escondido, CA
Posts: 426
Wow, good to hear that this procedure is still helping people out!

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