Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Leak Merged Threadfest - Page 11 - Defender Source
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  #201  
Old August 2nd, 2012, 08:01 PM
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Has anyone tried this lately?
How did it work out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by revtor View Post
There is a place that will take your old master and bore it out, insert a brass sleeve and then get it to blueprint specs. For CHEAPER than a new OEM. This plus a new seal kit and youre good for a long time. I had mine sleeved two years ago or so and I've had no problems since. The stock masters are cast aluminum and this soft metal wears out pretty quick. With the brass sleeve you're set... I got the name of the place off the Yahoogroup D90 list, Im sure its still there in the archives, or you could probably google it..

Removing and replacing is a pain in the ass, but not impossible for the average LRO. Take the hood off, and away you go. The master housing is held to the bulkhead (firewall) with 6 or 8 bolts and the whole assembly comes out.. A good time to battle any corrosion. One thing I forgot to do is seal the assembly back to the bulkhead with silicone or some sort of sealer, now when it rains I get wet feet!

~Steve M
red rover #791
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  #202  
Old February 5th, 2013, 09:04 PM
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I figured it had been a while since we had the clutch discussion so why not bring back a demon from the past.

Today I had the fine opportunity, under less than ideal circumstances, to replace my master cylinder on my truck. I had a good friend and fearless "shade tree" mechanic helping me out. With no resourses on how to bleed this thing we went after it. We filled it up. He opened the bleed valve, and I pumped like crazy on the pedal until all the air came out(I think), and fluid came out. Anyway this is my new issue. I was driving it, and it feels consistant but the clutch is releasing way deep into the range of the clutch (the oposite of pushing the pedal in). Then after some driving, after engine temps heat up, the clutch will sometimes feel as it it is not fully letting go in gear. I can pull upwards on the clutch pedal with my toes and it feels better. I am wondering if I did not bleed the system right, or is the rod with two bolts attached to the actual pedal needing adjustment?
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  #203  
Old February 6th, 2013, 10:01 AM
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I have not blead anything before and I was in a rural area with no internet when I finally got the master back into the truck. We did the best we could.
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  #204  
Old February 6th, 2013, 02:54 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Two guys, two beers. One sitting in the truck, the other under it with a 11 mm spanner, piece of transparent plastic hose and a 20 ounces empty soda or water bottle.

Stick one end of tube inside bottle down to bottom, tape it so it won't go out, stick the other side on the bleeding screw of slave cylinder. The game is to open the screw when the pedal is coming down and have it closed while the pedal is coming up, until you get clean and fresh fluid with no bubbles. Top up reservoir constantly during process.

There are other methods.

Don't remember ID of tubing but it's either 1/8 or 3/16.
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  #205  
Old February 6th, 2013, 03:02 PM
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Make sure there is adequate free play in the master. I believe the procedure is mentioned elsewhere in this thread.
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  #206  
Old February 6th, 2013, 03:17 PM
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Awesome guys. I am going to assume we are supposed to drink the beers and not toss them down the MC!!
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  #207  
Old February 6th, 2013, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Make sure there is adequate free play in the master. I believe the procedure is mentioned elsewhere in this thread.
I noticed last time I did this job that the shaft on top of clutch pedal has a lot of free play, so I guess even if you tight both nuts on master cylinder rod, you will have specs free play .
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  #208  
Old February 6th, 2013, 04:27 PM
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I just tweeked the bolts on the MC a touch and also did the bleed the way you all suggested. The clutch feels good different now.

Thanks all.

As far as the free play. What I noticed on my old MC when it was out, is that the threaded shaft is held in place by a ring. There is a touch of play between that bolt/shaft and the head of the MC. O kindof wanted the bolt to be resting up gently against the retainer ring, and the clutch pedal.
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  #209  
Old February 6th, 2013, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD View Post
I noticed last time I did this job that the shaft on top of clutch pedal has a lot of free play, so I guess even if you tight both nuts on master cylinder rod, you will have specs free play .
It is possible to put the nuts on in such a way to put pressure on the shaft which causes the issue.
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  #210  
Old July 15th, 2013, 04:15 PM
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Which way do I need to adjust the rod on the MC, the shop that installed it failed to road test. When the clutch fluid heats up the clutch fails to engage properly. What does the bolt on the outside of the pedal box do?
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  #211  
Old July 15th, 2013, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
Which way do I need to adjust the rod on the MC, the shop that installed it failed to road test. When the clutch fluid heats up the clutch fails to engage properly. What does the bolt on the outside of the pedal box do?
The bolt on the outside of the pedal box...well...I'm not sure what you're referring to. If it's the one on the side of the pedal box, then that is related to the bushing/pivot.

If I understand your question correctly, you should be adjusting the pedal further out away from the master cylinder, on the threaded shaft.
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  #212  
Old July 15th, 2013, 07:02 PM
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I think the bolt you are talking about is a stop, it will limit the travel of the pedal.
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  #213  
Old July 16th, 2013, 07:06 AM
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Awesome, thanks. I hope my clutch isnt fried from driving it with a improperly adjusted MC. I dont know what it is with shops and me, seems like any and everytime it goes in I always ALWAYS end up having to fix it.
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  #214  
Old January 13th, 2014, 11:21 AM
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soft clutch

my clutch is totally soft and touching the floor board.
I'm new to doing repairs and dont know what to do.
can someone please help me?
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  #215  
Old April 8th, 2014, 12:22 PM
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has anybody figured out which shop does the brass sleeve on the clutch master cylinder? I want to get this done.
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  #216  
Old April 8th, 2014, 02:20 PM
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Hi Mark. Long time since we've talked. Hopefully the 2.8 is still doing well.

When I got my clutch MC re-sleeved years back, it was done by Sierra Specialty Automotive. But I see that the guy has retired. He lists some alternate sources on his site, but does not necessarily endorse them.

http://sierraspecialtyautomotive.com/
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  #217  
Old April 8th, 2014, 02:28 PM
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Hey Ryan. I found this shop in NY that does it. I shot them an email to see if they can do our clutch MC's. gave them part no and everything. Look like for clutch MC's they will do brass sleeve and rebuild for around $100. If so, I'm in. I have my old one sitting on the shelf at home. I started to get a little intermitten drop here and there in the peddle box, so want to stay ahead of this. witih a brass sleeve, it should be the last time I ever deal with that problem

http://www.applehydraulics.com/brakes.htm
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  #218  
Old April 8th, 2014, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
Hey Ryan. I found this shop in NY that does it. I shot them an email to see if they can do our clutch MC's. gave them part no and everything. Look like for clutch MC's they will do brass sleeve and rebuild for around $100. If so, I'm in. I have my old one sitting on the shelf at home. I started to get a little intermitten drop here and there in the peddle box, so want to stay ahead of this. witih a brass sleeve, it should be the last time I ever deal with that problem

http://www.applehydraulics.com/brakes.htm
good guys to deal
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  #219  
Old April 8th, 2014, 02:50 PM
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mark kellgren
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I just spoke with a tech at apple hydraulics. ship them your old MC and they will do a full rebuild with brass sleeve for $125. turn around is 2 weeks with shipping. boom. I'm sending my old one out to them tomorrow. The tech was russian. I asked him, "can you do rover MC's?", he asked back "Does eet look like ceegar?", I said "yes", he said "gurlink. no problem"
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  #220  
Old April 8th, 2014, 07:52 PM
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That's a good price.
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