Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Leak Merged Threadfest - Page 10 - Defender Source
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  #181  
Old January 23rd, 2008, 07:13 PM
justinaldi
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justin aldi
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Thanks Jim C- great idea, why didn't I think of that?

anyways- thank you for the other advice
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  #182  
Old January 23rd, 2008, 08:41 PM
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Sounds like you and I have/had the same problem. I just had mine fixed. What a difference. Followed other members suggestions and did the whole thing. Clutch master cylinder, slave cyl., hard line, soft line. All parts cost about $175 from Rovers Down South. Cause I'm a newbie "mechanic" I decided to have a shop do it only cause of the master cylinder horror/headache stories I've heard. Labor cost was approx. 150-200. It drives like a new car. Huge difference for my and my rig.
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  #183  
Old January 23rd, 2008, 11:13 PM
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Oh yeah, I forgot to put a smiley on there so people would know I wasnt being a prick
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  #184  
Old February 29th, 2008, 09:48 PM
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Mark Balenovic
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Well, my clutch master cylinder was leaking its fluid onto my campy driving shoes and mud mats, days after I bought my defender with 75,000 miles. i eventually bought a new clutch master cyllinder from Atlantic British, and, one fine cloudless day, I decided to do the dirty deed. Folks, first of all, the "Bonnet" or hood, comes off after you release the front latch and remove the cotter pin. I, your innocent enthusiast, proceeded to remove the bonnet hinge bolts. This is not necessary, as those in the know will tell you, as the bonnet slips off its hinges when you raise the bonnet up beyond its normal position, (after you've removed the front cotter pin at the latch). ! So, it's then true what they say that you must first free up and move aside the brake master cylinder. The reason for this is that we Westerners are operating an English right hand drive design, which was modified for left hand drive. So the brake master cylinder is really in the way. Once you get the old clutch master cylinder out, and note its failed rubber seals (why don't auto manufacturers use silicon rubber - oh, that's right, planned obsolescence), you will be determined to continue and put in the new master cylinder, don't mind the gathering clouds. 20 minutes? I don't think so. It took me 4 hours to complete the task, but I spent about 2 hours ogling at the other stuff my work unearthed - and the ambarrasing "bonnet" issue slowed me down a bit, too although i did replace those crappy steel hinge fasteners with 316 stainless from a previous yacht restoration.
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  #185  
Old March 1st, 2008, 07:44 AM
JBOD77
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Jonathan
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And that, folks, is why I went the way of the shop for the master cyl. replacement. Not that I'm not competent enough to complete the task but because for 150 bucks in labor, and 2 hours of his time, my mechanic did it while I was at the bar slowly sipping dirty olive kettle one martinis. I'll save my time for less frustrating, more rewarding tasks.
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  #186  
Old March 1st, 2008, 03:08 PM
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I drank plenty of Guinness while replacing mine...it made it less painless
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  #187  
Old May 2nd, 2008, 12:16 AM
andys
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Andrew Swieck
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Ok thanks RyanS, I followed your description and was able to get the evil master cylinder out without too much difficulty, trick is like you said to rotate so pedal will come out. My issue is when I put the replacement master in, and added Castrol w/bleeder valve open and hose into another Castrol can... ie to prime and bleed.. on the second pump I heard the hiss and saw fluid dripping down the backside of my firewall...heavy sigh... Any ideas? The Master i put in was new and I don't think was a rebuilt ? could be wrong there... Any ideas? Heck the D90 shifted with the old master just about dry on many occasion....its been dripping for a bit, dreading like most here this repair.... Any ideas, Also where should the throw on the threaded rod be? The original was threaded all the way down to almost the bottom, should that be where it should be?
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  #188  
Old May 2nd, 2008, 12:38 AM
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Usually, having the throw be all the way to the back will result in a clutch pedal that engages very close to the floor. If you've never done a hydraulic system like the brakes or clutch before, you need to be very certain that you got the line flare seated properly and fitting tightened all the way down. There will be hissing as you work the cylinder for the first time, but I'm not sure where the dripping fluid came from. Ideally, you should "bench bleed" the cylinder before installing it, but with the gyrations required to install the defender clutch master, that can easily result in a big mess as you putz with it during install.
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  #189  
Old May 4th, 2008, 10:24 AM
andys
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Thanks Jim, well I took Clutch Pedal Assembly out again that evening and called it quits! The next day with a fresh start and clearer head, i reassembled the new Master cylinder and sort of bench bleed it, to see if I blew a seal, and thankfully all was well no fluid leaked out of seal... I got it back in the truck..time to bleed. My only advice is that you need TWO people to bleed the system as the Master cylinder holds a small amount of fluid and to bleed if you use the bleeder valve, clear hose and another bottle (half full) of Castrol- you will run out of fliud by the time you pump, hence two people..one fills while one pumps... The old girl is shifting like new again (well as close to as new as possible) It is a PIA project to get everything out of the way but doable!
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  #190  
Old May 4th, 2008, 11:24 PM
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Andy - Glad you got it sorted out. To make bleeding a one man job, you should check out a pressure bleeder (get the Euro version with the 1100 adapter):

http://www.motiveproducts.com/index.html

It makes bleeding the clutch or the brakes so much easier - I do it myself all the time. Also, I use to flush the fluid in my clutch periodically to help it last a little longer, and hopefully prevent having to go through that whole process again. Can't say for sure how much that helped, but I never had a problem after that initial repair for many years. I'm running a ZF now so I have other things to worry about rather than the clutch
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  #191  
Old December 21st, 2008, 01:33 PM
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Kevin Houseal
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94 w/ 70K mi. Clutch pedal started engaging down near the floor. Bleeding didn't help. Fluid seemed full. Ordered master cylinder, slave, lines from George at RDS @175. (local BAP was 275.) Took it to my mech and let them do it (after reading all the threads here, not worth my time) and they swapped it for @250. I never realized how weak it was before, very smooth with constant pressure in and out now. Done deal.
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  #192  
Old February 15th, 2009, 11:21 AM
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Scott Y
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Problems using pressure to change out clutch fluid

I am spending the winter doing much PM on my 95 D-90. Yesterday I was using a Motive Power pressure bleeder to flush the brake and clutch fluid. When doing the clutch, all I got was clutch fluid coming from somewhere? running down the frame rails and cross member. Anybody else have problems using a pressure bleeder with the clutch?

BTW, clutch feel fine, no apparent leaks after removing the 10 psi of pressure.

Thanks

PS -- Does anybody carry stainless flex hose replacement like the available brake kits?
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  #193  
Old April 15th, 2009, 08:08 AM
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I just replaced my Master Cylinder after it was leaking for some time now, it was a straight forward shot to just undo the bolts and lines going into it. Why is everyone pulling the whole peddle box out?
After power bleeding everything & new Caster GT fluid running everywhere I can drive the truck for a few minutes and all of a sudden the rear disk stay engaged. At the rear calipers I turn the bleeder screw and puff brake fluid squirts out as if under pressure. I can get back in the truck and drive it once again untill it happens all over again. I have noticed that when I press on my brake there is a squiss sound I did not hear before as if air is somehow in the booster or is escaping out of or into the booster...could the booster be bad or check valve?
I have bleed the system 4 times already. The porportioning vave went south also a possibility but all of a sudden? the seals in the new master are bad?

Help...
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  #194  
Old April 15th, 2009, 08:11 AM
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Its the clutch master that can't practically be replaced in situ on a LHD truck. The brake master is somewhat easier to access.
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  #195  
Old August 21st, 2009, 01:37 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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My Clutch started leaking onto the pedal last week. I intend to replace it next week but for now I need to refill it. What type of Clutch Fluid should I use?
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  #196  
Old August 21st, 2009, 01:51 PM
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  #197  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 09:54 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Brining up this old thread as thought some pics might help people. I had the clutch, slave and rubber hosed changed within the first year of ownership but last fall I noticed some leaking. Would add fluid but driving it around one weekend with the shifting being shitty I got fustrated and dove in (had the parts sitting on the shelf since last fall)

Last time the job was done, the garage charge close to $400+ in labor so I was expecting a bitch of a job. It was but not as bad especially considering I cleaned everything up, wired brushed and grinded the snotty metal from the clutch fluid eating the paint and painted the clutch box and footwell. Not an A+ job but if it goes again I will take off the fender and really get the footwell done nicely. But I am happy with how clean it looks and the assembly feels much smoother - greased and lubed everything inside. I think the clutch fluid corroded it badly.

Glad I got it done - clutch works much better but will need some fine tuning and another bleed or 2.

Tips/things I found out:
- Slave cylinder is on the bottom of the truck and is access by 2 10mm bolts. Couldn't figure out how to get it out at first but when I did it makes sense.

- Turkey baste or use the slave bleed with a vinyl line to get the fluid out. I didn't and made a mess

- I didn't take too much of the brake assembly apart - the springs from the inside made a big difference.

- Put some masking tape on the fender lip - will help to slide the clutch box out.

- I took the flex line out with the lower hard line - cleaned and put back together on the bench. The upper one is pretty easy to get from the top especially with the hood off.

Anyway - here are a bunch of pics I took. Hope it helps clear stuff up for people looking to do.

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  #198  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 03:48 PM
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Sigh..I had to do this again recently. Had to undo the brake booster, than removed the clutch pedal box. After that it wasn't so bad, just messy. Be sure to adjust the nut correctly with the proper amount of slack.
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  #199  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 09:07 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley
Sigh..I had to do this again recently. Had to undo the brake booster, than removed the clutch pedal box. After that it wasn't so bad, just messy. Be sure to adjust the nut correctly with the proper amount of slack.
Yeah, forgot to mention something on the adjustment nuts - I had them all the way up to where the threads stopped (based on what the other master was at). When I got it in and had to adjust (grabbing too low) it was a mutha effer. Having one of those skinny plate wrenches that come with (furniture, household stuff, kids games, etc) would have been a dream.
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  #200  
Old May 23rd, 2012, 10:39 PM
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Jason Lavender
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I literally just did mine last week too. Quick question...why do the follow up bleeds? Just to get the air out or is there another reason related to flushing the fluid after a fresh install I should be aware of?

Job really wasn't that bad...I was dreading it after hearing the stories. Need to do it on the 110 now as well...
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