Clutch Master Cylinder - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 20th, 2004, 07:21 PM
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Kris
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Clutch Master Cylinder

Hey guys,
I need to replace my clutch master cylinder, so i have a few questions. First off, anyone know the cheapest place to buy one, im assuming atlantic british, or something like that, but if anyone knows of somewhere other than the obvious ones let me know. Also, can anyone give me a description of how to get access to the MC, its under the fender, and i think u have to disconnect basically the entire clutch mechanism. Ideas? Anything else that u guys know about that i might be forgetting. I have a friend that knows what hes doing more than i do, but i would still like to know myself.
Thanks as always
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  #2  
Old January 20th, 2004, 07:53 PM
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the easiest way to do it is to remove the fender. THen its easy. its only 2 bolts and the linkage.
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  #3  
Old January 20th, 2004, 10:16 PM
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Ken Loy
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Kris,
It's not that hard so long as you've got skinny arms and have double jointed wrists.

In all honesty, I didn't remove my hood or fender. It's a bit more difficult, but not too bad. Be patient. Be one-with-the-Rover.

Can you get away with just rebuilding the master cylinder? I think I got my rebuild kit from RN for something like $15. That compares to what, about $100 for a replacement master cylinder?? Rebuilding just means replacing the seals and piston. Super simple.

There are a few comments in the FAQ section. Also, the description in the workshop manual is sorta helpful. If you read it through a few times, make sure you've got the metric wrenches and sockets, gasket sealer, and parts, and have some patience, it'll go alright. I'm no great auto mech, and I was able to do it.
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  #4  
Old January 20th, 2004, 11:04 PM
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Alright, thanks guys, my friend said that i didnt have to remove the fender either, so i think ill try that, it sounds a little less involved. He also said it looks like it would be a lot easier to just replace it, but offered the rebuild kit as an option......
THanks for the help!!
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  #5  
Old January 21st, 2004, 08:54 AM
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Ken Loy
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Kris, I don't think it would be any easier to replace the master cylinder instead of rebuilding it. You have to remove it and reinstall either way....
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  #6  
Old January 21st, 2004, 10:21 AM
tbmcneill

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remove the hood, though. it takes (literally) 10 seconds & will save you some heartache. i didn't remove the fender, but can see why that would make it easier. if you have a workshop manuel, there's a pretty good breakdown in there.

its more time consuming than anything else. even after i had everything unbolted, it took me about an hour to figure out how to manuever the MCC/pedal assembly out so i could even swap out the cylinder.

its one of those typical cases where you multiply the time you THINK its going to take by 3 to get the actual time...
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  #7  
Old November 18th, 2011, 10:00 AM
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so in theory it is two bolts holding it in the pedal box, and the hard line running into it? mine has shit itself again since this seems to happen every 3-4 years I need to do it myself. any comments on adjusting the rod on the mc? I assume that I can adjust the new MC like the old to achieve similar results
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  #8  
Old November 18th, 2011, 12:39 PM
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Matt White
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Not to discourage you too much but replacing the clutch mc has to be one of the most annoying repair jobs on the 90.

If you have the patience and believe in less parts disturbed then the mc can be replaced as mentioned above. I've done it twice, but it's still a very slow process because its so awkward.

The third time I replaced the mc I got pissed and decided to make future repairs easier. If you unbolt the clutch pedal box and the brake pedal box you can remove the clutch pedal box by just pushing the brake pedal box a little out of the way. A lot of people replace the clutch mc this way, it lets you get to all of the bolts easier with the box removed from the car. I took it one step further, I drilled a .75" hole in the front of the clutch pedal box, this will let me stick a 1/2" socket into the pedal box so I can remove the jam nut on the clutch shaft. Also the two bolts that attach the mc to the pedal box, I tack welded the two nuts to the inside pedal box. In the future I should not have to remove the pedal box and should only be a 30 min. job to swap mcs, instead of 2-3 hours.

Matt
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  #9  
Old November 18th, 2011, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattwhite View Post
Not to discourage you too much but replacing the clutch mc has to be one of the most annoying repair jobs on the 90.
Ditto. I also modified mine for future festivities. In a stock one, do yourself a big favor and remove the fender. (Ominous tone): You will regret it if you don't.
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  #10  
Old November 18th, 2011, 02:04 PM
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I rather pluck out my eyeball than do the job again. It's "doable" just painful, mentally and physically (knuckles will be bleeding).

I did as suggested and loosened the brake box so everything can slide over. For me the hood was not the big issue. If the fender can be removed "easily" that is the ticket as this is what is in the way.

Also, if you're going to take the time to change it I would recommend getting the "new" part sent out and have it resleeved in brass otherwise you will be changing again. The aluminum bore pits over time and this ruins the seal and causes wear.

I bought a brand new master AND slave and had them both resleeved by http://www.brakecylinder.com/index.htm (ask for Joe). Also had the old ones done as spares.

I love the suggested mods to the clutch box for future work, ie welding the nuts, etc.

MAKE SURE!!!! the rod is adjusted properly as it can ruin your clutch without even knowing it. It's easy to think it is adjusted properly when it actually is NOT. Take time to do this part right.

Does anyone have a "blow by blow" on how to remove the fender??? Is it easy??
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  #11  
Old November 18th, 2011, 04:43 PM
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I remove the four bolts holing the brake booster to the mount and carefully pull it forward and then over toward the center of the truck. Makes getting the clutch pedal assembly out doable (barely).
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  #12  
Old November 20th, 2011, 05:55 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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First time I did this job, took me 14 hours
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  #13  
Old November 20th, 2011, 08:50 PM
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I have been analyzing this all weekend as it leaks I swear it doesn't look as bad as it sounds. 2 nuts and the linkage?
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  #14  
Old November 21st, 2011, 10:48 AM
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It's not as bad as it sounds... it gets over hyped. To be sure, it's not a fun/easy job. I think the worst part is getting it bleed and adjusted correctly.
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  #15  
Old November 24th, 2011, 11:05 PM
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Take the pin out of the brake booster/pedal and the bolts and move to the side without disconnecting the lines and then pull the clutch MC/box out and adjust it just like the one that came out of it. Mark it if you have to or count the threads...which ever is easier for you. "Saturday Night" process of bleeding...1st open bleeder screw on slave cylinder with a hose connected going to a beer bottle 1/4 filled with fresh brake fluid...2nd fill reservoir with fluid(not beer)...3rd push pedal to the floor and hold it there until fluid starts filling the bottle and then let off and close bleeder. Now fill the reservoir again and open the bleeder and pump the pedal 10 time counting to 5 between strokes and then close the bleeder. Make sure you don't run out of fluid during the process. If it still feels spongy after this...go find a hill or something to get the reservoir level and bleed again. Sorry about the long wind'd procedure.
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  #16  
Old November 28th, 2011, 10:39 AM
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I don't know why a bunch of people said that this is a horrible job, I replaced both the master and slave with no issues what so ever. Take the hood off, 10 second job, and then undo the bolts for the brake pedal box and shift it over. Then undo the bolts for the master and take the whole box and pedal out. Once out its a simple job replacing it.

It does take a little time because some of the bolts you have a small amount of room to get to them but none of this knuckle bleeding torture work that has been described. I actually thought that bleeding the clutch system was more of a pain in the butt then replacing all the crap. But I have an 84 defender so it may be different under the hood than the NAS.
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  #17  
Old November 28th, 2011, 10:46 AM
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RHD for the win...it's easy to do and nothing is in the way. Which is a good thing since last year's rebuild is failing again...
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  #18  
Old November 28th, 2011, 03:08 PM
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Isn't it the fluid that is the biggest contributor to premature failure? Mike at ECR has a recommendation of some Castrol type that he claims cures the premature failure problem. I'll have to dig that up. Does anyone know it off the top of their head?

I need to do this job soon.
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  #19  
Old November 29th, 2011, 01:07 AM
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http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-GT-LMA.../dp/B0002JMAKW

This is the good stuff: Castrol GT LMA
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  #20  
Old November 29th, 2011, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherpamike View Post
http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-GT-LMA.../dp/B0002JMAKW

This is the good stuff: Castrol GT LMA
They changed the formula and I am dubious that it still has the same advantages. I have only hoarded a couple liters so I am not sure what I will do when that is gone. I wonder if you can still get lucas girling red fluid?
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