Clutch master - brake servo or fender wing removal ? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 20th, 2012, 09:58 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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Clutch master - brake servo or fender wing removal ?

I have to change my clutch master cylinder and I really don't want to go thru the space nightmare of this job, I'll make some room.

Which one is easier to remove, brake pedal/servo/cylinder assembly, or fender wing ?
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  #2  
Old November 20th, 2012, 10:52 AM
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Remove the six bolts holding the brake pedal tower on and move it over without disconnecting anything if you need a bit more room. Personally, I never needed the extra space. If you are going to remove one, I would remove the fender unless I wanted to bleed my brakes.
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Old November 20th, 2012, 10:56 AM
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It's not too bad to change it out without removing anything.....make sure you have every size (10,11,12,13,14mm, 3/8,7/16,1/2,9/16) wrench known to man, long, short, stubby, ratcheting, etc....but most of all, lots of patience.....but it can be done.

If I had to remove anything, on a newer truck,it would be the brake tower......older truck without a lot of sh*t bolted on the inner fender, I'd remove the wing.
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  #4  
Old November 20th, 2012, 11:29 AM
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Agreed with above. It will suck the first time but will be about a thousand times faster the second time. So you have that going for you.

B
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Old November 20th, 2012, 12:30 PM
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I removed the fender panel to replace my clutch ms.
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  #6  
Old November 20th, 2012, 01:15 PM
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I stand flabbergasted at the responses. Having done many difficult jobs in some very hard-to-work-on cars, I distinctly recoil at the thought of changing my Defender clutch MC. Not that it is difficult per se, but it is extremely frustrating: everything is right there in your hands, but it won't come out by a nanomilimeter's lack of clearance. Do it right:

1) Get a OEM MC, not a pattern part that will last two years. Believe me, if you don't remove the fender, you don't want to do this often. So,

2) Remove that fender panel.
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Old November 20th, 2012, 01:49 PM
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This is reason 1 to not convert RHD to LHD.
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Old November 20th, 2012, 03:31 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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I did that job almost 4 years ago, it's not even about the time but like Santiago said it's the frustration plus you'll finish with hands all trashed.
I'll take fender off, have a couple of cold Presidentes, then I'll hit the MC
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Old November 20th, 2012, 03:58 PM
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I spent more time farting around with trying to get the clutch box out than just removing the panel.
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Old November 20th, 2012, 04:02 PM
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even with the roll cage?
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  #11  
Old November 20th, 2012, 04:17 PM
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Did this on the NAS 90 a few months ago. Just unbolt the brake booster (6 bolts or whatever from the footwell inside the car) and move it out of the way, then you can get the entire clutch assembly out no problem and do it all on the bench. Trust me, removing the entire wing is a pain in the arse and totally unecessary.
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Old November 20th, 2012, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
even with the roll cage?
Yes. Its easy.
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Old November 20th, 2012, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Yes. Its easy.
I would never get the cage and fender alignment correct. I am staring this project directly in the face. I need to drive my truck this afternoon and I am not sure the MC will be operable. I will likely remove the clutch pedal box and give it a try on the bench.


This thread rivals a "which mud tire is best" type of thread
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Old November 20th, 2012, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
I would never get the cage and fender alignment correct. I am staring this project directly in the face. I need to drive my truck this afternoon and I am not sure the MC will be operable. I will likely remove the clutch pedal box and give it a try on the bench.


This thread rivals a "which mud tire is best" type of thread
Phillip:

If you need any or want to bounce anything by me or ask questions, shoot me a pm and I'd be happy to give you my number. I just did it not long ago with the remove clutch assembly method.
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Old November 20th, 2012, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
I would never get the cage and fender alignment correct. I am staring this project directly in the face. I need to drive my truck this afternoon and I am not sure the MC will be operable. I will likely remove the clutch pedal box and give it a try on the bench.


This thread rivals a "which mud tire is best" type of thread
Just remove the side panel, not the whole wing.
- Unbolt all 8 bolts (4 each side) that attach the cage to the wings
- wrap a piece of wood in a t-shirt and place it between the cage and bulkhead, this will lift the cage just enough to put the fender side panel
- Tape/mark the panel to help with alignment
- Unbolt the panel
- Remove the clutch box

Plenty of room to work and you can tackle any rust issues

I don't like to remove anything more than needed for a repair, but it's just too damn cramped in there.
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