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  #41  
Old March 5th, 2016, 12:38 PM
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Mike Barnett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverman2010 View Post
The pivit bolt is in the cab, I have done many times. Push the seat all the way back , lay on the seat with your head in the foot well and you should be bob's your uncle.
Yep, it's in the cab. Sounds like some rover gymnastics are in my future... There's some trim that that's not easily removable that is not helping the situation.
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  #42  
Old March 5th, 2016, 04:28 PM
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Got the pivot pin out but now I have no idea how to get to the second mounting bolt.. Grrr
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  #43  
Old March 5th, 2016, 09:34 PM
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Well that tested every ounce of my love for Rovers, lol.. Had to unbolt the brake booster so I could get a spanner on the mounting bolt. Got the mc installed but still need to bleed it.
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  #44  
Old March 7th, 2016, 01:49 PM
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So I bled everything and the symptoms are the exactly the same as at the beginning. Pedal goes most of the way to the floor and then stops. I can hear the fork moving back and forth but it doesn't move far enough to engage the clutch. Also, if the pedal is pushed until it stops and then I open the bleed screw on the slave, the pedal goes to the floor (as you would expect). Sooooo... I'm back to assuming it's the fork that has failed and I'm pulling the engine. Unless anyone has any other ideas?
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  #45  
Old March 7th, 2016, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
At this point it wouldn't hurt to sacrifice a live chicken.

-Jeff
Thanks Jeff, I know I can always count on you for sound technical advice...
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  #46  
Old December 3rd, 2016, 10:20 AM
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Following up on this for posterity. FINALLY got to pull the engine yesterday and confirmed that it's the fork that failed. Ironically it's the "heavy duty" fork...
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  #47  
Old December 3rd, 2016, 11:07 AM
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That is one torn up clutch fork.
I would adjust so your release is putting less pressure on the clutch pressure plate.
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  #48  
Old December 3rd, 2016, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
That is one torn up clutch fork.
I would adjust so your release is putting less pressure on the clutch pressure plate.
Mike, do your shoes look like these?
Maybe your left leg is too strong?



.
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  #49  
Old December 3rd, 2016, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
That is one torn up clutch fork. I would adjust so your release is putting less pressure on the clutch pressure plate.
Are you talking about a pedal adjustment? I only had the truck about two months before the failure. Nothing felt unusual in the time I was driving it.
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  #50  
Old December 3rd, 2016, 11:34 PM
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It was probably just a crap aftermarket fork. The broken metal looks poor quality.
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  #51  
Old December 4th, 2016, 08:51 AM
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looks like carbide cracking at the weld HAZ. i wonder if these things are normalized...

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  #52  
Old December 4th, 2016, 09:58 AM
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Clutch fork / lever failure

I purchased one of Land Rover Import's 300 TDI / R380 "conversion kits" and included was a new clutch fork / lever that had an extra, thicker, and wider (in addition to the one shown in the above photo) piece of flat steel welded on. It seemed a bit over kill, but maybe not.

I had this happen on a Triumph TR7 years ago (which uses an almost identical fork / lever) after I installed a heavy duty clutch and foolishly did not install a new fork / lever.
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  #53  
Old December 4th, 2016, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
looks like carbide cracking at the weld HAZ. i wonder if these things are normalized... Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
The OEM forks are made from a very hard steel. The weld will never be good. You would not want to normalize as you would end up with a soft fork that wears quickly. Get a proper OEM fork and reinforce it carefully. A remote grease line is a good plan. There is also the guy in Canada that make ones with replaceable nylon bushes.
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  #54  
Old December 4th, 2016, 11:15 AM
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Whatever you do for the fork, do not skip the step of repalcing the ball that the fork pivots on. Lots of people just seem to change the fork only. But, the balls always wear and once you have a ball that is no longer round, the pressure on the fork is not evenly spread out, and cause the fork to wear thin and punch through. You can see the wear on the ball in your photo. Also, lots of folks seem to skip the step of putting some nice sticky grease on that ball and on the back of the fork during assembly.

I would just get another reinforced fork and make sure you change the ball, and everything else in there too.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #55  
Old December 5th, 2016, 10:17 AM
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Good call. Hopefully Trevor has one in stock..
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  #56  
Old December 5th, 2016, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The OEM forks are made from a very hard steel. The weld will never be good. You would not want to normalize as you would end up with a soft fork that wears quickly.
Yes John, but are you absolutely, positively sure?

Normalization after welding is part of ASME Section I, which removes the HAZ. Getting the fork hard again is merely another hardening step - easy to do!

It just looks to me like they weld the reinforcing plate after they heat treat the stamped fork, then do no further heat treatment. Which is weird to me.
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  #57  
Old December 5th, 2016, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Yes John, but are you absolutely, positively sure?

Normalization after welding is part of ASME Section I, which removes the HAZ. Getting the fork hard again is merely another hardening step - easy to do!

It just looks to me like they weld the reinforcing plate after they heat treat the stamped fork, then do no further heat treatment. Which is weird to me.
Ed,

The part that failed was the strap on the fork, not the hardened steel of the fork itself.

It looks like it was a bad weld with not enough penetration. The ball probably pushed through because it was worn and not properly lubed. The force of the ball pushing through broke the crappy weld.

The heat from welding is also nowhere near the area where all the loading occurs- i.e in the pivot ball socket.

That's my theory and I'm sticking to it.

Have others here had failures of the reinforced forks? That's the first one I've seen.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #58  
Old December 10th, 2016, 01:41 PM
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Anyone have any advice for removing a flywheel that is stuck to the crankshaft? I've hit it a few times with a rubber mallet and it's loose but I can't get it to wiggle off. Thoughts appreciated.
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  #59  
Old December 10th, 2016, 02:07 PM
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  #60  
Old December 13th, 2016, 09:25 AM
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bolts in the flywheel and fish it off...youtube video of it somewhere

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