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  #1  
Old January 21st, 2012, 07:28 PM
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Dylan Haas
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clutch changing?

hey guys, i have been having a problem with my clutch and engaging differently everyday. i brought it to my mechanic because i had to go on vacation. I left it over the weekend told him i thought there was air in the lines. I come back to pick it up he tells me the top bolt to hold the slave cylinder in was completely stripped. so he replaced the bolt. and the clutch was perfect.That was about 4 days ago. we had our first big snow today(long island NY) and i figured i would drive it around a bit. that clutch had sunk all the way down and engaged at the very very bottom. i let it sit for about an hour and it seemed worse. started it up in gear and it pulled the truck a bit when started up, i had the clutch all the way down. i had almost NO clutch at all i could only shift gears if i really pushed into the the clutch very quickly and hard. i drove home like this. i pull into my driveway and all throw it into reverse, all of the sudden the clutch went back to normal. what the hell happened?! i checked the fluid it is fine. i check the slave bolts again and they are fine. i dont know what it could be. i know almost nothing about this type of thing. please help.
Dylan
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  #2  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 09:21 AM
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Sounds to me that you have an air leak in your lines or the bolt is stripped being pushed to and fro. My friend was having problems getting his truck into reverse when it was cold. Just when it was cold mind you. It turned out that had had to bleed his lines again. Truck now shifts great. But I would imagine that it may happen again unless he found a leak that is ever so small and slow.
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  #3  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 09:34 AM
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yea i assumed it was air in the line. and i am going to bleed them today, but if there was air getting sucked in wouldnt fluid be coming out? and i havent notice the fluid drop at all. does the truck have to be on an angle when i bleed it? for all the air to go to the nipple?
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  #4  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 09:41 AM
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I think the truck was mad at you for forcing it to romp around in the salty slush that are Long Island roads after a storm. Definitely give it a thorough undercarriage wash. The clutch will work just fine after that, guaranteed.
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  #5  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 09:47 AM
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Don't try to jam the thing into gear. You can actually shift fairly well without the clutch with some practice.
The master cylinder is probably crudded up. If it has never been apart, this would be my first suspicion assuming that you are not seeing fluid leaks. If it were me, and I knew that the clutch disc and pressure plate are OK, I would replace the entire master/slave system. Fairly inexpensive and not too labor intensive.
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  #6  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 09:48 AM
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It is possible for air to get in when the seals start going bad, but not leak fluid out.
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  #7  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
.....I would replace the entire master/slave system. Fairly inexpensive and not too labor intensive.
Make sure you use OEM parts if you do this. The aftermarket parts have a really high failure rate on these particular items.
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  #8  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 04:12 PM
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I have seen some that didn't drip but gained air in the system. Could have been the slave or the master. It is easier to replace the slave first and see if the problem persists before replacing the master.
OE parts rule! The Britpart stuff is getting very bad.
At a certain RPM you will be able to ease the transmission in any gear with out using the clutch. It is not fun but can be done. You do have to start out in gear however.
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  #9  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 04:54 PM
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well i changed the slave and all clutch parts about 3 months ago. which is what confuses me. the master is less than a year old. it looks brand new. could it still have gone bad? i have 0 clutch now the pedal is very very light will not engage anymore. so it doesnt make sense to me? should i buy a new master and slave either way? because they are pretty cheap.
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  #10  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 06:24 PM
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Yes, new parts can be bad... Unfortunately it is very common to have bad new parts these days.
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  #11  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 08:25 PM
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ok i will order this two parts can't hurt. what kind should i get? i will be ordering from rovahfarms most likely how is AllMakes? or delphi?
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  #12  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 08:43 PM
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Purchase OE parts! Or OE grade parts. Before ordering new parts did you try to bleed the lines again?
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  #13  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 09:13 PM
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Buy genuine clutch and brake hydraulics, these along with the water pump and ignition bits are worth paying the premium for.
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  #14  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 09:18 PM
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i attempted but i was having a problem with loosening the bleeder nipple. and i didnt want to break it, plus it didnt help i was doing this while laying in snow and was rushing to get it done. so i will be bringing it to my mechanic tomorrow. he can deal with it, i dont have the time to work on it myself, work has been a pain. so what other place can i buy from? RN or maybe RDS?
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  #15  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 09:31 PM
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Buy your mechanic a pressure bleeder to bleed the system. Make sure he has the fitting that will make the job easy. Many new parts are damaged by trying to bleed the system mechanically while seals are "dry"

What you descrbe is a seal bypassing itself. Which happens when they are damaged as described above. OEM seal kits may solve this problem, if the bores are not damaged.

Good Luck
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  #16  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 09:34 PM
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thank you. how much does a pressure bleeder cost? if he doesnt have one? also do you happen to have a link to the new seal?
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  #17  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 10:09 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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x2 on the pressure bleeder for the clutch, great tool to have.

One note on the pressure bleeder with brakes on these trucks though... make sure not to put too much pressure when bleeding the brakes because the seals beneath the brake fluid reservoir will leak fluid under pressure if they're not in good shape. Again, that only applies to bleeding the brakes... bleeding the clutch with a pressure bleeder is a breeze.
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  #18  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 10:24 PM
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How do you guys manage to squeeze a pressure bleeder into a LHD Defender? There is not enough room in there for a toothpick....

I've found taking the slave off and letting it hang down so the there are no pockets to trap air works great. You can just open the nipple and let gravity do the work.
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  #19  
Old January 22nd, 2012, 11:55 PM
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The pressure bleeder really takes up no more room than the clutch master cylinder cap. The one I have has a tube connecting the cap of the bleeder to the tanks of the bleeder. So it's just like a standard master cylinder cap with a tube coming off it.

Your comment makes me remember that you've got to make sure the slave cylinder is oriented in the correct direction. IIRC, the bleed nipple needs to be on the top of the slave (double check the manual on that one though). Whichever way it is, it matters that it be correct.
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  #20  
Old January 23rd, 2012, 12:35 AM
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That motive brand bleeder that Rovers North used to sell can be had online pretty reasonable. The seal kits are easy to get from any of the LR parts vendors.

I agree with Red about dangling the clutch slave when bleeding. Another benefit this provides is it pushes fluid backwards when you install it to the bell housing and fork arm pushrod. Which usually pushes the air out of the loop just above the clutch master.

Tighten and tighten again all the fittings when it is up and running. This keeps it from sucking air from a fitting that did not seat with it's first attempt to tighten.
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