Clutch bleeding woes - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 31st, 2011, 07:14 PM
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Clutch bleeding woes

I've bleed the clutch about 50 times, I finally got really good a couple times today, the problem is every time I shut the truck off it stops working and I have to bleed it again.

I even drove it 3-4 miles(stop and go traffic) and it worked great, as soon as I shut it off and started it again it wouldn't go into gear.

Everything is new except the hard lines which are about 2 years old.
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  #2  
Old August 31st, 2011, 07:25 PM
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Any loss of fluid?
It sounds like the slave might be leaking air from somewhere.
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  #3  
Old August 31st, 2011, 07:31 PM
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I always had trouble bleeding the clutch on my Series 3. This time on my Defender I parked the front end of the truck on a 4 foot bank and then bled the system. It worked like a dream, first time. The slave is on a downward angle otherwise and can be a royal pain.

Mike
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  #4  
Old August 31st, 2011, 07:33 PM
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No leaks that I can see.
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  #5  
Old August 31st, 2011, 07:54 PM
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how is the pedal free play?
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  #6  
Old August 31st, 2011, 08:16 PM
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Pedal feels good, not sure what you mean as far as free play?
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Old September 1st, 2011, 08:28 AM
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I use a big, 30CC syringe and some acuarium air hose to inject fluid into the slave cylinder's niple. When you see no more bubbles in the reservoir, you have a totaly bled system.
Total time, about 5 minutes.
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  #8  
Old September 1st, 2011, 09:32 AM
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Want to borrow my power bleeder? It is a pressure assisted bleeder, for really troublesome cars to bleed like my wifes Landcruiser with a variable rear proportioning valve I will roll the truck onot ramps int he front and rear while in the process of bleeding. This always works..makes it a one man job too
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Old September 1st, 2011, 11:39 AM
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Is the slave fitted the right way up (bleed nipple to the top)? If its upside down, it wont bleed properly. I only mention it as it seems a common mistake.
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  #10  
Old September 1st, 2011, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reb78 View Post
Is the slave fitted the right way up (bleed nipple to the top)? If its upside down, it wont bleed properly. I only mention it as it seems a common mistake.
x2 check this first
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  #11  
Old September 1st, 2011, 04:57 PM
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do you lose the pedal every now and again?

if you hold the clutch down dos it eventually start to bite?

My 90 use to do this, the seal must f flippped over when i chsnged the fliud and would go then be ok for months
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  #12  
Old September 1st, 2011, 05:07 PM
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The slave is in right.
Marcus, what seal was flipped?
I borrowed a jack from work, I'm going to raise the front end and try and bleed it again tonight.
thanks fro the ideas
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  #13  
Old September 1st, 2011, 06:03 PM
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Have you tried a pressure bleeder like the gunson eezi bleed? Reverse bleeding it is also a good idea - i've never needed to do it this way but have heard it described various ways - one was just using an oil can.

What bits have you replaced in the system? Could be a failing slave or master.
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  #14  
Old September 1st, 2011, 07:10 PM
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Everything but the hard lines are new, but I think I may of found the problem.

The soft line was pulled pretty tight and I an wondering if something wasn't pinched or pulled out of shape.
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  #15  
Old September 5th, 2011, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santiago Montenegr View Post
I use a big, 30CC syringe and some acuarium air hose to inject fluid into the slave cylinder's niple. When you see no more bubbles in the reservoir, you have a totaly bled system.
Total time, about 5 minutes.
I've used this on my 1984 Mercedes 190D and it worked like a charm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Want to borrow my power bleeder? It is a pressure assisted bleeder, for really troublesome cars to bleed like my wifes Landcruiser with a variable rear proportioning valve I will roll the truck onot ramps int he front and rear while in the process of bleeding. This always works..makes it a one man job too
I've had bad luck with power bleeders on Defenders because of the way the reservoir connects to the master cylinder... the rubber grommets don't provide a very tight seal and as soon as I put ~5psi on the reservoir with the power bleeder, brake fluid leaks out from around the grommets, even with new grommets. Power bleeders are great for other cars, and I love mine, I'm just saying to be careful if/when you use it on the D90

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
x2 check this first
x3 on checking the position of the slave, although it sounds like you've already checked that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomaco1 View Post
Everything but the hard lines are new, but I think I may of found the problem.

The soft line was pulled pretty tight and I an wondering if something wasn't pinched or pulled out of shape.
Sounds like that might be it, hopefully it'll bleed right after you unkink that hose. Good luck.
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  #16  
Old September 16th, 2011, 09:34 PM
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Well, the lack of clutch has been figured out. One on the springs on the pressure plate went, I was able to see pieces through the wading hole.
I can't figure out if this was the original problem or if the spring broke do to all the pumping I was doing on the clutch trying to bleed.
The one drive I took when it briefly bleed was fine, no grinding or noise.
Anyone have an idea why the spring would break after only 20k?
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  #17  
Old September 17th, 2011, 08:47 AM
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  #18  
Old September 17th, 2011, 10:48 AM
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I don't remember where I got it. Looking into it.
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