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  #1  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 08:36 AM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Clunk - Die

Well, just can't get this thing back on the right track.

My oil light comes on at an idle.

Last night I got a couple clunks or what seemed to be fuel cut out when accellerating in 3rd and 4th gear, then total loss of power. Oil light came on.
I restarted, drove another 1/2 mile and the same thing. Now it will not start at all.

I am worried that my rookie attempt at water pump install over the weekend might be a factor but the fan turns freely, no water loss, etc.

I have never been able to see any codes come out of that black box. I opened it, and the numbers on the display are two red 8's. I don't see how they light up or anything.

Any help?
Thanks
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  #2  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 06:02 PM
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Well oil pressure and cooling don't have much to do with the ECU, but stalling could. Seems more like fuel starvation, so dumb question is there gas in the tank? Do you think the fuel pump is working? Have you check that the spark plugs are firing?
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Old September 23rd, 2005, 06:14 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Gas is good; Not sure about the fuel pump, but I had that problem a few weeks ago and replaced the relays and it was working fine; I don't know how to check for spark....
Everything has happened since I changed the oil and got it running after a long sit.

Follow-up Post:

The bank manager called and is was concerned because their ATM hits were down last night. They think I'm hiding in in the bushes because the rover is parked there. Sounds like a plan cause I think its time for a once-over from the PB Dealer. Oh, only $130 an hour.
How did you all learn about engines? WTF
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  #4  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 06:29 PM
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I learned quick when I had to replace mine. Do you have a friend that can give you a hand? It's easier with 2 people.

To check the fuel pump first have someone out back by the gas filler, then turn the key to the on position (just before it starts to crank) and you should hear the pump come on for 10 or so seconds. If not to be sure unbolt a hose from the fuel filter, I would undo the side closer to the engine. The fuels filter is the metal can along the frame under the passenger door. When you unscrew it fuel should flow out, then go into the on position with the key and fuel should shoot out (be sure to shut it off quick and point it away from anything).

To check for spark, pull the cap off of one of the plugs, stick a screwdriver in it and lay it on a metal part of the engine so that the metal part of the screwdriver is about 1/4" away from the engine but not touching. Then crank (try to start) the engine, a spark should jump from the screwdriver to the to the engine.

If you are not sure I'll post pics for ya
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  #5  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 06:36 PM
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OK. I'll give it a shot.
I tried the fuel pump disconnect last time but used the tank side of the line. When I replaced the relays it started. I will try again. I also grabbed the ECU documents off the faq. Thanks. Should I buy an OBD II?
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  #6  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 06:44 PM
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Nope, OBD2 only started in 96, so it won't work on a 95.
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  #7  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 06:54 PM
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OK.
I'm just gonna do it a favor and take it in.
The closest private guy that I know is worth a shit is in Orlando (referred by Dave Souza). Does anyone live near West Palm?

Thanks Mike
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  #8  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 07:24 PM
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I really doubt Milli that your water pump install had anything to do with the oil pressure light. That is my first thought. I would follow Mike's advice and check the plugs. What about your Dissy Cap/Rotor? That could cause a no start. It sort of sounds like the oil pump took a crap? Good Luck!
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  #9  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 09:25 PM
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No spark. A slight buzz (mmm beer), but no spark. Fuel pump is kickin.

Any questions???


PS Great pic
I wish you would have been the security guard that helped me out@!

Follow-up Post:

Dissy was safe and sound as far as twisting and contact. I have never pulled out though...oops.
and the oil pump, can I test that?
Thanks in a slump
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  #10  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 09:54 PM
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No spark! you may have found your problem! Check out the link

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=5559

some info on testing the ignition system, some nutjob posted though so be careful
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  #11  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 10:07 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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wowe, thanks

Follow-up Post:

what's a stepper motor and why do I need that!

(The iginition module and coil are new.)

Follow-up Post:

thermostat???
I've never seen that part).
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  #12  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 10:08 PM
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The stepper controls a valve that lets more air into the plenum. It is like a choke on an older car but it is controled by the ECU. When the engine is idleing it lets more or less air in depending on air temp and engine load (like when the AC kicks on it lets in more air).

Hmm, and no spark with new stuff. I would pull the center wire off the cap (it's the feed wire from the coil) and do the screwdriver test with it.
the thermostat controls the flow of coolant, it stops almost all flow until the engine reaches a certian temp then it opens and closes to maintain temp.

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  #13  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Also called the "Idle bypass valve" and "Idle air control motor". This motor is located on the upper plenum of your rover and allows idle air to flow around the throttle plate when its closed.

Its needed because when your foot is not on the gas the throttle plate is completely closed and shuts off air to the engine. If the engine has no air it obviously cannot idle. The "Stepper motor" controls a small pintle that fits into a passage, this passage channels air around the throttle plate. When the motor is retracted the engine idles up, when it extends it idles down. The motor also compensates for engine loads at idle speeds. You turn the A/C on and it drags the motor down, the "Stepper motor" brings the RPM back in range. The same happens when any load hits the engine at idle.

With that said, it should be pretty obvious what the symptoms of a bad or dirty motor are. Your engine will not want to idle. Or it will idle low and stall when a load such as A/C or Power steering.

To service you will have to remove the motor from the plenum and clean the end of the valve. You should also clean the passage that it fits into with carb cleaner. If the symptoms remain after cleaning the motor more then likely needs to be replaced.
I stole that from DWeb..Here is a pic as well HOWEVER it is from my 1998 Disco but it will give you an idea of what to look for.
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  #14  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 10:19 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Just wondering if it's overheating, the thermo is not picking it upa and something shuts it down later.

I will pull the center wire and check there for sparky.
That makes sense. Anything next?

No ac, and it idles perfectly (well, most of the time).

Follow-up Post:

Thanks RChic. I will do that.
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  #15  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 10:20 PM
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What did the temp gauge show when driving it before died? The ECU won't shut off the engine if it overheats.

As far as what to check that post I pointed to, well I really ment this part posted but the nut job

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...9&postcount=11

It has some tests to do to help figure out what is wrong.
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Old September 23rd, 2005, 10:32 PM
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I don't believe that gauge. It seems to only go up at the last minute. I dont remember seenig anything but the oil light and a clunk...scary and paranoid.

I have a rotor arm. No volt meter. I'll try and put that in.

I have never changed the plugs, but been meaning to!
been 40Kish w/110 now (wires were brand new when I got it so I'm assuming the plugs are too). IM is new.

Sucks having a note on your car.
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  #17  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 10:38 PM
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Wish I was closer, we'd have it running in no time! Get a cheap after market gauge if you don't belive it to be sure of what the temp is.

So did the oil light come on solid or did it flicker? And describe in better detail this clunk?

You can test the oil pump but you need to remove the distributer. you need a good drill, a 12 mm socket on a 10" extension attached to the drill and you can spinn the oil pump with this setup and watch to see if the oil pump light goes out.
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Old September 23rd, 2005, 10:39 PM
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Yes it sucks having a note on anything. But look on the bright side.... Spark plugs are cheap! $1.99 times 8, and the thermo runs about $12; Knowing your d-90 is running well = Priceless!


http://www.northeastbritishparts.com

I really like these guys. Very honest, cheap prices, and great shipping quotes! Try them if you need any parts. And it helps that he has a *dreamy* British accent! YUM!!
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  #19  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 10:41 PM
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Right oO
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  #20  
Old September 23rd, 2005, 10:45 PM
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LOL I live right down the oad from them, and unfortionetly he knows me by first name!

But you can buy plugs cheap anyplace I recomend NGK's part # BPR6EY
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