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  #41  
Old September 27th, 2005, 07:54 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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I checked the wires on the bottom of the coil before it went. I know what you are saying though. It could be something super simple or the amplifier (or coil) could be bad again (or something I have no idea about). I would expect them to tell me something like that and WHY the amp or coil have bit it in a year. They haven't put a new cap or rotor on yet and I am assuming they are talking about the arm only. Those two things took me about 15 minutes before I got it towed. WTF
He hasn't called back.

Follow-up Post:

Thanks Mike. I'm gonna go get me truck back tomorrow.
I guess this all serves me right for living in Florida!
If I see these guys on the ocean, they are done!
There have got to be some honest dealers......um, or not.
Can you write in blood on this thing????
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  #42  
Old September 30th, 2005, 05:14 PM
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So did you get it back? Does it run? Are there any stealership employs at the bottom of the ocean?
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  #43  
Old September 30th, 2005, 05:16 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Hey,
They replaced a connector to the coil. You were spot on.
Well, the bad news is that the thing is running rougher than ever, huge power loss. It feels like it's going to have a total body shutdown at anytime!
Since they told me my cap and rotor were bad, I put the old ones back on, and it's the same. I can see the engine tremble hard in there every once in a while.
Q: When I put the new rotor in, I may have spun the thing (trying to get it off) DUh. Could that cause some type of timing issue?
I am going to get new plugs and maybe wires tomorrow and a Napa cover. Hope that will help.
Any other advice???

HaHa
No, just happy to get my car back. I think. Holy F thats a nice dealership. I contributed $130 for the diagnostics work on that wire is all! I am pissed it is running badly now, but 275 for a cap and rotor and 140 for a brake switch...cummmon.
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  #44  
Old September 30th, 2005, 05:33 PM
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Robert Dassler
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With all the swapping of components, I'd double check the firing order at the cap 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2..make sure you don't have a couple swapped. I would stick with a Genuine cap & rotor...my experience is that the aftermarket stuff is bad news. You can damage the distributor if you are too aggressive in removing the rotor...there is a little plastic clip that holds the 2 halves of the distributor shaft together. If it breaks, you may dislodge the advance springs which will make your timimg all goofy.
Rob
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  #45  
Old September 30th, 2005, 06:30 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Is that the same as the Manual?
1LH [ - 8RH - 4RH - 3LH - 6RH [ - 5LH - 7LH - 2RH?
If this means Left and Right Hand side of the engine, mine are wrong.
How are they #d?
Where is #1 and #8, and does it have anything to do with the side?
I'm totally confused!

Assuming 1-8 are the spots on the cap starting one before the clip, mine goes:
2
4
3
8
From back to front on the [RH side (Looking from rear)]

6
5
7
1
From back to front on the LH side

Follow-up Post:

OK, I think I get it.

When looking at the engin from the front, does it go:
2 (far away)
4
6
8 (close)
on the left
and
1 (far away)
3
5
7 (close)
on the right?
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  #46  
Old October 1st, 2005, 10:15 AM
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  #47  
Old October 1st, 2005, 11:34 AM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Got it! I had like 3 or 4 wrong. I am supprised it even ran.
Running like a champ for now though.
Thanks Mike!
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  #48  
Old October 1st, 2005, 02:29 PM
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Sweet!
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  #49  
Old October 1st, 2005, 02:53 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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I betcha they flipped those around at the dealer.
There is no way I could have messed it up that bad when I changed it!
Paranoid
Anyway, I got the NGK plugs today and that will be a nice little project. What kind of wires should I get? I'm not really sure I need them, but it couldn't hurt. The ones on it now are blue and say something about supression on them. The "looms" or things they are guided thru are pretty bad, so I'd like to get those too. Hopefully, I can set it up just like the diagram.
Are the wires not supposed to touch each other?
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  #50  
Old October 1st, 2005, 03:10 PM
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Dam Dealers! They just want you to trade in the 90 for an LR3 or something! It's not a big deal that the wire touch each other as long as they are not sparking back and forth but then if they sparked o each other I bet they would spark to the block. As for wires, I think allot of the forum likes Magnacor 8.5s I haven't changed my wires as of yet so I don't have much experiance with them. You should be able to get new guides at the parts store.
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  #51  
Old October 3rd, 2005, 10:07 PM
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You know it's sad and funny, they wanted to charge you 275 for a cap and rotor when you could buy the hole dam thing from RDS for $200 http://www.roversdownsouth.com/trans.htm I want to
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  #52  
Old October 4th, 2005, 05:24 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Now, my radiator is dumping water like crazy from the bottom right corner. Sometimes it sprays a stream out thru my grill. I got shot in the face the other night!

Anyways, I found a guy who said if I pull it out and bring it in, he will measure, order, and install a new core. Is there anything else he needs to know? = except where's the $.

PS, does my oil run thru there?
This might be a nice time to do those lines huh?

Thanks
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  #53  
Old October 5th, 2005, 08:32 AM
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If you bring in the radiator he should be able to figure everything he needs to know. The oil lines do run to the radiator and there is an oil cooler in it, so it is a good time to replace them. Did you check to see that the lower rdiator hose sprung a leak? It's at the bottom right.
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  #54  
Old October 5th, 2005, 10:02 AM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Yea, the hose is good. I think the oil cooler hoses look good too. I am concerned that what I would get made would be inferior to these ones really.
He's got my radiator and was excited. Running around showing me all types. I'm thinking of soder dipping a new straight fin core (depending on cost) like the FAQ guys. He says it might not cool as well though which worries me. I might do electric fans instead of the clutch fan and the continuous air flow could help. I do a lot of sitting in traffic in 100+ degrees. Fun stuff. Still thinking about it.
HMMMM
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  #55  
Old October 5th, 2005, 12:40 PM
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Have him add a second core like in the FAQ to help cooling. I have electric fans and love them!
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  #56  
Old October 5th, 2005, 12:57 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Would that be a 4'th core? There is space for one in the back.
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  #57  
Old October 5th, 2005, 01:38 PM
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yep 4 th, and there's room
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  #58  
Old October 5th, 2005, 08:43 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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I want to go for it. I have always thought that Rovers North stainless grill looked cool and with a bulletproof radiator it makes sense
I did headlights w/relays and all the parts from Summit were pretty straight forward.
Is it a similar job as far as electrics go?
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  #59  
Old October 5th, 2005, 08:52 PM
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Yes it is, I even made up wiring diagrams to make it easier

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=4863

And I have made some different versions for people who wanted to add things or run things different. Some in this thread

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=5260

it's just as easy as headlights but slightly bigger wire.
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  #60  
Old October 7th, 2005, 05:00 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Mike,
Thanks!
I will have to call in my little brother to help read those things. He is the EE.
How do you keep track of all that stuff?!
The core will be a 5 core, flat fin (11 per inch) and that makes 2 and 7/8" total width.
He reccomended that I not soder dip the thing, but just to let him paint it. Supposidly, it will be strong enough and soder is not the best for cooling.
Does that sound good?
4 bills.
+ fans.
I should probably be using that $ towards an AC to cool myself instead!
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