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  #1  
Old April 3rd, 2011, 02:58 PM
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John Crouse
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Cleaning engine parts

What's the best way to remove the brownish laquer-like finish on engine parts? That's the best solvent?

I'm assuming I don't want anything abrasive. I thought about getting one of those cloth wheels for my bench grinder.
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  #2  
Old April 3rd, 2011, 04:15 PM
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William Skidmore
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Take to a machine shop to get a chem bath or sonic bath.
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  #3  
Old April 3rd, 2011, 06:27 PM
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Tom Rowe
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I've had good luck with Purple Power.
Which engine parts specifically?
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  #4  
Old April 3rd, 2011, 07:47 PM
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Bill Adams
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Dishwasher. Seriously.
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  #5  
Old April 4th, 2011, 02:52 AM
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Tony Sims
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Dishwasher. Seriously.

Only if you are single. Or want to be. Seriously.


It's pretty hard to beat good ol' gasoline. Just put out your cigarette first. Or was that for non-dairy creamer?
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  #6  
Old April 4th, 2011, 08:28 AM
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kevin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
Take to a machine shop to get a chem bath or sonic bath.
X2.
I'm not sure what parts you are talking about but while you may get the surfaces with a solvent, you will not get the cavities and oil passages. In fact, you may end up with debris in these areas by surface cleaning.
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Old April 4th, 2011, 11:31 AM
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Jake K.
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I use oven cleaner on my blocks. I then pressure wash them and spray them with a light coat of oil to keep them from tarnishing before storage. It makes them super shiny but it does strip EVERY bit of lubricant off so make sure you coat them with something to stop any rust from forming.
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  #8  
Old April 4th, 2011, 12:57 PM
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Matthew
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Purple power works really well. I usually spray on a warm engine, work it in with a brush and let it sit for a while. Then rinse with a hose.


Off engine I usually use purple power or oil eater, brush then blast with beads
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  #9  
Old April 4th, 2011, 11:02 PM
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Bill Adams
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Anything aluminum you can clean with detergent. Do not use caustics like lye or oven cleaner. I don't like using solvents, they're nasty.
Cast iron and steel use lye. My "Jeffrey Dahmer" bucket is a mixture of one can Red Devil lye per two gallons COLD water and 1/2 cup Simple Green. Mix slowly in a plastic tub deep enough to submerge your parts. Soak parts at least over night and rinse with lots of hot water. If the parts are rusty too then you can convert the rust using a 2 amp battery charger. Wire the grotty parts to the negative side and to the positive side attach a chunk of clean steel. Let that sit over night and rinse the slimy rusty ( now converted ) goo off with hot water. Be sure to use a fat wire so that it does not get hot from resistance and don't let the pos and neg parts touch. Stubborn rust may take longer and require turning. You will have bare clean cast or steel parts that will flash rust. A quick spray of Metal Ready quenches the flash rust and preps the surface for POR-15 or primer.
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  #10  
Old April 5th, 2011, 08:06 AM
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Dave C
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The best stuff I've ever come across is Dynatex Gasket remover. This stuff is essential to have for softening rock-hard gaskets to avoid scraping alloy housings or engine blocks.
I did a test on a set of discovery 4.6 pistons that had done 120K and were covered in shiny, hard-baked on carbon.

I tried using Mopar combustion chamber cleaner, two brands of oven cleaner and the dynatex. The best by far was the gasket remover. It just pickles away the goop on the surface and allows it to be wiped or brushed off. Unlike the over cleaners - it is also reccomended for use on aluminum.

It is nasty on your skin, and you don't want to inhale it though, so use latex gloves - and double-up. If you use one set of latex gloves and it gets on the outside, your skin gets hot - even though the latex remains intact! Two gloves seems to work perfect. Safety glasses are also ESSENTIAL

If you have a block, heads, pistons, rods, etc, it might be easier just to pay $50 and have the machine shop do it. But the laquer finish on the inside of blocks and heads is no-match for the dynatex, just spray it on, wait 5 mins, and scrub it with a brush. The best brush I've found for small stuff is a denture cleaning brush as these have small, but very stiff bristles. DollarGeneral sells the best ones (just a dollar would you believe") I buy a few whenever I am passing by the place.

oh - don't try the junk gasket remover by permatex from pepboys, oreilys, autozone in the toothpast tube - the dynatex is in a spray can and the best of all brands. Cheapest place to get it is from ryderfleetproducts.com - as an indication of how good this stuff is - it cannot be sold in california!
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  #11  
Old April 6th, 2011, 11:31 AM
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John Crouse
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Thanks everyone. Several things for me to try.
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