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  #1  
Old October 22nd, 2006, 01:05 PM
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Marc
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class 3 receiver

I have the dixon bates tow jaw in the rear, and have the EE tank guard. I want to install the D90 class 3 receiver
with a 3.5 T Dixon on top. 1- will the receiver fit with the EE tank guard? or do I have to cut a hole.

What set up do you guys use for trailer/recovery jaw set ups?
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  #2  
Old October 22nd, 2006, 05:51 PM
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why not just use your rear reciever as a recovery point? the EE guard is slickrock and it works with the reciever
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  #3  
Old October 22nd, 2006, 09:34 PM
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Thanks, If the receiver works with the slickrock, then I will probably go with the receiver only, and use the superwinch receiver shackle.
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  #4  
Old November 5th, 2006, 02:45 PM
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Well , I got the class3 reciver tow assembly from RN, and it did not fit with the EE tank guard. The tow receiver assembly also does not line up well with the bottom member attachment points, but does with the face bolt holes of the cross member. Most problematic is the receiver tube itself is about 1.5 to 2" too long and hits the tank. After struggling with the tank and the guard and the damn hitch receiver, I decided to alter the hitch a bit to make it fit.

1. cut 2" off the receiver tube. Should be OK, as the ball hitch assembly is almost 2" shorter when inserted.

2. cut off the bottom braces flush with the main body of the receiver. The extended brace mounts don't line up well.

3 drill new center mounting (underneath)holes to match the cross member. (similar to series set up)

4. re-paint everything

5. Bitch and have a beer after spending $200 for the hitch.


Hope this helps you guys (without the rear step bumper) thinking of getting the tow assembly.
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  #5  
Old November 5th, 2006, 04:34 PM
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Is the EE tank guard the one that Dave Lucas makes? If so it should have fit no problems.
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  #6  
Old November 5th, 2006, 06:17 PM
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its the same
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  #7  
Old November 5th, 2006, 06:36 PM
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I was at it for over 6 hrs!. Dropped the tank with the plate on, supported by the jack. Couldn't get behind the plate for the bolts. Dropped the plate, held the tank up, and positioned the hitch. The hitch pushes on the tank. Tried moving the tank around, the hitch is flush with the tank. Tried positioning the plate back on, the hitch prevents the plate to leverage up. Measured accross the tank plate frame support, the hitch is in the way.

So , I 'm not sure how you guys got the hitch on, what sequence did you use, and how did it fit?
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  #8  
Old November 5th, 2006, 10:01 PM
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Can't help any the truck came with it on.
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Can't you feel 'em circlin' (closin'in) honey?
Can't you feel 'em swimmin' around?
You got fins to the left, fins to the right,
and you're the only bait in town.
You got fins to the left, fins to the right,
and you're the only girl in town.

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  #9  
Old November 6th, 2006, 08:40 AM
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post up a photo? Is it a nas rear step bumper reciever? Maybe its a euro thing that wont work with the NAS tank?

Follow-up Post:

you look for this effect? https://www.expeditionexchange.com/straps/DCP_1248.jpg
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  #10  
Old November 6th, 2006, 10:19 AM
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It's the Rovers North Hitch RNH110/90, here are some pics.
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  #11  
Old November 6th, 2006, 10:25 AM
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maybe checkout the one rover accessories offers. Safari Gard used to make one but i dont think they offer it anymore.
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  #12  
Old November 6th, 2006, 10:31 AM
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Never seen that one. But having put my SG one on a few times, I know what you mean. There is not enough room for the rear box section of that hitch against the tank guard. Were you planning to tow with that or strictly for recovery?

If you want to keep it, I think you'll need to make a relief hole in the tank guard.
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  #13  
Old November 6th, 2006, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
maybe checkout the one rover accessories offers. Safari Gard used to make one but i dont think they offer it anymore.
Going to use it for trailer towing & recovery. But I do not want to compromise clearance.

I won't deal with SG anymore. you have to cut into the tank guard to fit their hitch anyway. I already spent the $200, so I might as well adapt it.

I planning to cut the ends offand drill center mount holes to match the center crossmember bumper mounting points. Then I will cut off 1.5 to 2"of the hitch tube to clear the tank. The tube is 2" longer than all adapters that I have anyway, so strength should not becompromised. Going to reinforce with backing plate (which BTW RN does not provide).

EE has a hitch set up, but I do not recognize their hitch. Looks like an adapted or custom job...
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  #14  
Old November 6th, 2006, 12:47 PM
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its Rover Accesories
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  #15  
Old November 6th, 2006, 06:02 PM
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Well I checked with EE. The slickrock did not fit with their hitch, so they went with a stock skid in their photo.
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  #16  
Old November 6th, 2006, 07:05 PM
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Mark M
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I'm curious why the Slicrock didn't fit with the hitch. As far as I can tell from the photos, it follows the original design, just made of better material. I installed the RN hitch with my stock skid pan without modification. It was a pain, like your experience. FYI - the sequence was remove the pan, clean up threads and drill out any broken bolts (which I did), support the tank with jack, install hitch (very tight getting the nuts on the bolts between the rear cross member and tank), then put lip of pan in first and rotate it into place. I ran the truck low on gas to minimize weight, but I wish I would have ran it almost dry. I also wish I would have sprayed the bolts 2 weeks earlier, vice 2 days prior. I think I messed with mine for 6 hours or so over two days - got fed up on the first day. HTH. Mark
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  #17  
Old November 6th, 2006, 07:28 PM
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basically using the same sequence. The EE guard is thicker, and the plate would not rotate. The hitch is pushing against
the plate and tank, with the hitch seperating (when loose) 2" out from the cross member.

After I cut 2" off the receiver, I'm going to try this sequence; bolt hitch in, strap tank in, mount tank plate.
If that doesn't work, I will have to cut out the receiver section in the EE tank guard.
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  #18  
Old November 6th, 2006, 09:18 PM
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Thanks for the data. On that note, I'll be applynig some waxoyl to my stock plate this weekend - make this one last as long as possible. Mark
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  #19  
Old November 15th, 2006, 10:42 PM
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Well I sorted out the hitch install, and finished the installation today. (1 week later..) Had the tank on stand for a week while I waited for add'l parts. I opted to combine the RN hitch with the Dixon 5T jaw. The install was a little tricky,so I figured that I best post my installation process, in the hope that it will save others aggrevation, especially those who have the SlickRock tank guard. Finally, I like the RN Hitch Receiver, and like the simplicity of it's design. However a little trimming is involved and because of the differing tolerances of Rovers, the Hitch receiver mounting points may have to be drilled/adapted. My goal was to incorporate a recovery jaw, and a tow hitch, with limited impact to take off angle and clearance. I think I have achieved this, and the set up looks good to me. The total cost was not cheap, especially with the 5T dixon in the mix. I will start off with the list I ended up buying-or had already;

Parts
RN hitch receiver $200
5T dix bates $175
EE backing plate $15
For Hitch: 4 Hex bolts, Standard bolts, Steel grade 8, 1/2-20 x 4-1/2 Each
nuts, wash, lockwash $25 shipped. (4"-4.5" long for receiver/dixon/EE backing plate combo)
4" drop hitch, pin, converter plug, 2" X1" ball $110 (4" drop= 22" from ground to center of ball)
Hitch receiver lock $20
Hitch cover $7
For tank guard: 4 Hex bolts, Standard bolts, Steel grade 8, 5/16-24 x 1-1/4 Each-
nuts, wash, lockwash $20

Tools
Makita 4.5" grinder/steel cutting wheel
Makita Cordless drill/ti-bits
Jack & 2X4
Open end metric wrenches
Vise grip
Rubber hammer
Ratchet strap 2"
Graphite grease, anti-seize, and PB
Krylon semi flat fusion paint
Corrosion X-or similar

We all know that it can be a PIA to drop the tank, depending on the amount of rust and condition of the bolts.
I maintain the bolts, so removal was easy, while I supported the tank guard and tank with the jack and 2X4.
Removing the guard is necessary to get enough room to work behind the cross member.
Removing the tank guard (slickrock) alone can be tricky, because letting it all hang loose can rip the pump connections. So I cut a length of 2X4 long enough in vertical position to support the tank and guard from the ground,
and had it standing by. I left the fuel filler hose on for support on the right side of the tank. I crawled underneath
on the left side, unbolted the tank and guard while the whole assembly is supported by the jack. Then I let the jack
and guard down while supporting the tank by hand, and then slipped the stand-by 2X4 ,for left side support of the plastic tank.The guard was now on top of me, and I could slide it out of the way. I then re-positioned the jack to the center of the plastic tank, and jacked it back up. I then disconnected the fuel filler hoses, and the small fuel line behind it, and dropped the tank enough to work behind it.

As previously mentioned, the RN receiver is too long for the slickrock guard, and I cut off about 1.5" from the inside.
This still left more than enough length for hitches, as the length exactly matched the ball hitch length when inserted.
The mounting portion of the hitch (lower support bar) was now flush against the cross member, but the mounting holes did not line up with the cross member mounting points, by about 1/8". Using my drill, I lengthened the hole by over 1/8". I cleaned up the cut end, and mounting bar, rust treated them, and then painted it.

The Dixon Bates 5T does not give enough room to use the 1/2 bolt washers, so I used the 1/2 lock washers front and back. I coated the bolts and all the mounting surfaces of the hitch and Dixon with graphite grease, mounted the combo assembly, and pushed the bolts thru. Limited space behind the cross member makes it tricky to position the backing plate. The inside of the cross member has a lip, so I had to pull out the bolts so that only 1" of the ends stuck out
on the inside for the plate to fit over the bolts. Once on, I pushed the bolts all the way thru while holding the backing plate. Realizing that the two lower bolts were in the way now to install the nuts on the upper bolts, I removed the lower bolts. After a half an hour of putzin around trying to finger the lock washers and nuts thru the confined space, I got smart and used a closed end wrench with duct tape over the back. I stuck the washers and bolts to this, positioned the nuts over the bolt ends, while spinning the bolt from the outside with the other hand. Just enough to get the nuts started. The Dixon will not allow a socket or box wrench on it's face, as there is no room. So I used vice grips to clamp down on the bolt heads on the outside, while I box wrenched them from the inside. My ratchets of course would not fit. I tightened the whole assembly tight, maybe 100lbs +. I then bolted the lower support bar with a little persuation from my foot, pushing it into position as it was still off by 1/16th. The assembly was now bolted on.

The moment of truth for me was to see if the slickrock would now fit, without having to do a cut out for the hitch.
First I jacked the tank up, and strapped it with a ratchet strap. I then removed the jack. Crawling underneath with the slickrock on top of me, I positioned the lip end over the hitch end and pushed it as far as I could. I then rotated the guard up successfully. The mounting holes were now 1/8" off. Using a rubber hammer, I pounded the guard so it fit flush against the cross member mounting hole bases. 1/16" off center. Again using a drill, I slight lengthened the
holes on the guard, and the bolts fit. The other mounting points were a real tight fit, but they went in. Before bolting tight, I removed the ratchet strap and let the guard support the tank. I bolted up the tank and guard, and then reconnected the fuel filler hoses and line. Job done...

How many hours? forget about it. It was a PIA. A helping hand goes a long way, but if you do it alone, thats the way I did it. Next time I won't do it with a 1/2 tank of gas .

It was dark when I was done, so I couldn't take pics. Will post them tomorrow. Sorry for the lengthy post, but I really needed to vent, and hope this helps someone.
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  #20  
Old November 16th, 2006, 02:28 PM
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pics of hitch receiver mounted, with hitch off, and on, and the piece I had to cut off. Magnetic reflectors on base, camera flash shows what it would look like at night.
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