Chassis swap questions - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old January 6th, 2013, 02:53 PM
Paul K's Avatar
Paul K
Status: Offline
Paul Kennington
'85 Ninety V8 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: La Grande, Oregon
Posts: 1,698
Registry
Chassis swap questions

All:

Is there a difference between a LHD & RHD 90 chassis? I plan to import a 200 or 300 Tdi SW in a few years, and want to swap the chassis out for a fully galvanized (& possibly powder coated on top of that) one before taking the rig down to the USVI. I see galvanized units available here in the US but am not sure if they are the same.

Should I have the bulkhead galvanized or powder coated whilst I'm at it?

Also, what is a ballpark cost on having the chassis swapped out?

I figure any 25 year old rig is going to be due for a new chassis & bulkhead, and want to make sure it's as salt proof as I can get it before it is exposed to the tropical weather.

Any answers/thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul.
__________________
Current fleet: '85 Ninety 3.9 V8i Auto SW, two Discovery 1's (one for my Nephew, one for my Niece),'07 BMW 335Xi.
Past Land Rovers: '96 Discovery SD, '00 Range Rover HSE, '04 Discovery SE7, '07 Range Rover HSE, '08 LR3 SE7.
Past fleet: '89 Classic Mini, '83 Porsche 911 SC Coupe, '89 911 Carrera targa, '96 911 Carrera 4, '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser, several Minis.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old January 6th, 2013, 03:01 PM
airbornrover's Avatar
airbornrover
Status: Offline
William Skidmore
SIII 109 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Land by parkway and 33
Posts: 1,882
There are some on here who live in the islands who can give you a heads up on what to expect in that type of environment. Some years ago ECR did a truck up that was heading to the islands, might want to look that up and see what they did to prep it.

There are a few differences for RH and LH. Yes on galv'ing the bulkhead while your at it. Just gavly everything that is steel while your at it since your going to have it in the islands.
__________________
Quote:
Just to be clear, i was not bragging. i was calling you a pussy. Ren Ching
There is nothing as permanent as a temporary fix. JSBriggs
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old January 6th, 2013, 03:04 PM
Paul K's Avatar
Paul K
Status: Offline
Paul Kennington
'85 Ninety V8 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: La Grande, Oregon
Posts: 1,698
Registry
Thanks! I also plan on installing stainless brake lines. Anything else?
__________________
Current fleet: '85 Ninety 3.9 V8i Auto SW, two Discovery 1's (one for my Nephew, one for my Niece),'07 BMW 335Xi.
Past Land Rovers: '96 Discovery SD, '00 Range Rover HSE, '04 Discovery SE7, '07 Range Rover HSE, '08 LR3 SE7.
Past fleet: '89 Classic Mini, '83 Porsche 911 SC Coupe, '89 911 Carrera targa, '96 911 Carrera 4, '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser, several Minis.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old January 6th, 2013, 03:18 PM
dave_lucas's Avatar
dave_lucas
Status: Online
Dave Lucas
None
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: CO USA
Posts: 3,126
RHD and LHD chassis are the same
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old January 6th, 2013, 03:20 PM
Jonesy's Avatar
Jonesy
Status: Offline
Craig
87 D110 (Ruby)
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 4,446
Registry
Stainless on every nut, washer and bolt too...may want to check out Bill's(o2batsea) build...he is a galvanizing "hero"
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old January 6th, 2013, 04:14 PM
Paul K's Avatar
Paul K
Status: Offline
Paul Kennington
'85 Ninety V8 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: La Grande, Oregon
Posts: 1,698
Registry
Thanks guys. I'll call ECR tomorrow.
__________________
Current fleet: '85 Ninety 3.9 V8i Auto SW, two Discovery 1's (one for my Nephew, one for my Niece),'07 BMW 335Xi.
Past Land Rovers: '96 Discovery SD, '00 Range Rover HSE, '04 Discovery SE7, '07 Range Rover HSE, '08 LR3 SE7.
Past fleet: '89 Classic Mini, '83 Porsche 911 SC Coupe, '89 911 Carrera targa, '96 911 Carrera 4, '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser, several Minis.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old January 6th, 2013, 04:27 PM
airbornrover's Avatar
airbornrover
Status: Offline
William Skidmore
SIII 109 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Land by parkway and 33
Posts: 1,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul K View Post
Thanks guys. I'll call ECR tomorrow.
Should be able to find it on their website. www.ecr.com
__________________
Quote:
Just to be clear, i was not bragging. i was calling you a pussy. Ren Ching
There is nothing as permanent as a temporary fix. JSBriggs
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old January 6th, 2013, 05:53 PM
Spanner110
Status: Offline
I
1993 Defender Pick up
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 66
I would certainly Advocate galvanising the bulkhead.
As for the Chassis (not sure what the current US import restrictions are) but you could look into getting 'Richard Chassis' in the UK, to build one to your spec; then when you are ready to ship your 90, the chassis could be added to the shipment for a little extra cost.
I just bought one from them and it is very high quality and heavy duty to boot.(ok I did get them to use 2.5mm steel plate - but I do have a reputation for abusing my trucks)
I would however, caution against stainless bolts and fixings. They might look the dogs wotsits but they are going to react like hell with anything alloy or regular steel over time. Stick with standard fixings and protect with grease or paint.
I'm in the middle of swapping out my 90's chassis...well I started in August 2012 and it is still sat in the shed while I fix every other worn out part on the truck. It's turned out to be one of those epic jobs, but I'd rather do it now than afterwards.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old January 6th, 2013, 06:41 PM
airbornrover's Avatar
airbornrover
Status: Offline
William Skidmore
SIII 109 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Land by parkway and 33
Posts: 1,882
Yeah with the stainless, what people have done is use a plastic washer in conjunction with the arrangement or rubber washer to keep the items separate.
__________________
Quote:
Just to be clear, i was not bragging. i was calling you a pussy. Ren Ching
There is nothing as permanent as a temporary fix. JSBriggs
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old January 6th, 2013, 07:50 PM
Paul K's Avatar
Paul K
Status: Offline
Paul Kennington
'85 Ninety V8 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: La Grande, Oregon
Posts: 1,698
Registry
All:

Thanks for the info! The reason I want to have the work done here in the US is because I plan to import the 90 myself, and I don't want any issues with importation (I have heard they're tightening up). That may be complicated by having extra parts (engine, chassis etc.) in the back. In addition, depending on cost I may use the rig as my DD for a few years, then get the work done before we move to the Caribbean.
__________________
Current fleet: '85 Ninety 3.9 V8i Auto SW, two Discovery 1's (one for my Nephew, one for my Niece),'07 BMW 335Xi.
Past Land Rovers: '96 Discovery SD, '00 Range Rover HSE, '04 Discovery SE7, '07 Range Rover HSE, '08 LR3 SE7.
Past fleet: '89 Classic Mini, '83 Porsche 911 SC Coupe, '89 911 Carrera targa, '96 911 Carrera 4, '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser, several Minis.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old January 6th, 2013, 08:36 PM
DGH
Status: Offline
David Howe
None
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jamestown, RI
Posts: 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul K View Post
...is because I plan to import the 90 myself, and I don't want any issues with importation...
Here are some of the rules regarding importing into the U.S. http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/import/

One of the rules is you are required to utilize the services of a Registered Importer. Here's the current list. http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/impo...st12282012.pdf

Oddly enough one of the RIs that specializes in LRs isn't on the list. But you can find him around here if you look.
__________________
2011 LR4 Metropolis (white)
2003 DII Santorini Black (I think)
1981 FJ 40 Beige
Defender - in the market
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old January 7th, 2013, 03:45 PM
Paul K's Avatar
Paul K
Status: Offline
Paul Kennington
'85 Ninety V8 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: La Grande, Oregon
Posts: 1,698
Registry
All:

I tried calling ECR a couple of times today, but nobody answered & they don't appear to have an answering service. Are they still in business?

DGH:

Thanks for the info. I will use a registered importer.

Paul.
__________________
Current fleet: '85 Ninety 3.9 V8i Auto SW, two Discovery 1's (one for my Nephew, one for my Niece),'07 BMW 335Xi.
Past Land Rovers: '96 Discovery SD, '00 Range Rover HSE, '04 Discovery SE7, '07 Range Rover HSE, '08 LR3 SE7.
Past fleet: '89 Classic Mini, '83 Porsche 911 SC Coupe, '89 911 Carrera targa, '96 911 Carrera 4, '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser, several Minis.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old January 7th, 2013, 04:04 PM
rijosho's Avatar
rijosho
Status: Offline
Joshua
1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
Research Assistant/Eagle Eyes
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 16,557
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul K View Post
Are they still in business?
You may have to become friends with them on Facebook to get a response from them.
__________________
Quote:
I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old January 7th, 2013, 04:42 PM
Roverlab
Status: Offline
Trevor Griffiths
85 110, 92 110, 92 RR, 06 LR3
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Elizabethotwn, PA
Posts: 1,647
We're about to start our 2nd frame replacement in 12 months. The 2 NAS 90's are on complete opposite ends of the spectrum other than they both need frames. The first is a 125k mile farmer's friend, usually packed in with cow poop and when raised on the lift began to crumble! The other is a very straight, very shiny, low mileage example that has rust through on the rear crossmember, RH frame rail and behind the bolt in crossmember also the SW door is in advanced stages of rust.)
Both are getting stainless fuel pipes, brake pipes, brake hoses, hardware and applications of rust preventatives on an area that can't be easily addressed down the road. The farmer's 90 needed to be completely rebushed, came from a state that doesn't perform inspections so we also discovered it needed calipers, rotors, and much more. No 2 "frame replacements" are the same as purpose, use, and environment all have bearing on the outcome. But, as a reference, the farmer's 90, the worse of these 2, will finish up around 145 hours.
My opinion: plan (budget) for the worst and add some more.
__________________
Roverlab is now British 4x4 Specialists.
Email is
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Same place, new dogs.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old January 7th, 2013, 05:22 PM
Mybluett's Avatar
Mybluett
Status: Offline
Defenders Northwest
110SW
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 2,009
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul K View Post
All:

Is there a difference between a LHD & RHD 90 chassis? I plan to import a 200 or 300 Tdi SW in a few years, and want to swap the chassis out for a fully galvanized (& possibly powder coated on top of that) one before taking the rig down to the USVI. I see galvanized units available here in the US but am not sure if they are the same.

Should I have the bulkhead galvanized or powder coated whilst I'm at it?

Also, what is a ballpark cost on having the chassis swapped out?

I figure any 25 year old rig is going to be due for a new chassis & bulkhead, and want to make sure it's as salt proof as I can get it before it is exposed to the tropical weather.

Any answers/thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul.

Lots of thoughts and answers on chassis.

New replacement chassis are not sided (RHD/LHD) and are universal. Chassis in the US that are NEW most likely came from LR, Marsland, or Richards. All are good platforms for a rebuild.

On the vehicle itself; Import as is, restore. Slightly higher cost, less risk, better personal connection with the final product.

You can save some $$ with a RORO into Tacoma for the truck when you find one. Chassis we have and use Richards Chassis - plus if you can come get it (truck and trailer) you can save a good bit of cost on shipping. Also have a good powdercoat supplier with a big enough oven to do a 130 chassis locally - though the only benefit to powdercoat would be if they can get the inside of the frame coated as that is the bit that is the most difficult to maintain.

Bulkhead, i'd skip the galv and go with a good epoxy dip, the high heat doesn't mix well with sheet metal and unless you have a jig to straighten it could end up twisting a bit. (not definite, just a risk)

Chassis swap on a clean good condition truck should only run a few thousand for parts and labor (more rust means more time or more parts - and both mean more money)

If you are inclined to take a road trip up to the Tacoma area you are welcomed to come to the shop as I'm finally starting into assembly on my rebuild - with a new chassis and bulkhead.

Brian
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old January 7th, 2013, 09:30 PM
Capt Milks's Avatar
Capt Milks
Status: Offline
Mike
Defender V-8, Defender 2.25
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 1,801
I am on my second frame swap. A galvanized frame is the bomb. Personally I would not powdercoat but do a good chassis coat or leave it. The most important thing, I think, about galvanizing is getting it inside of the frame. That is where the frame is going to rust first. I also galvanized the bulkhead and would do it again. I have head horror stories about doing it but mine turned out pretty good. The only negative is the finish on the painted surfaces may need a little more work to get nice. The main positive is the galvanization gets inside the bulkhead in all the nook and crannies.
There are different grades of stainless. I use the better grade and use it almost everywhere you do not have to use Grade 8 or better. I paint all surfaces before install to create a barrier for the dis-similar metals. If they are on the outside they get painted again when the final paint takes place. If you stop the environmental elements from contacting the bolts you will do a lot to prevent galvanic action. The problematic areas are going to be where the metals have a good ground.
__________________
Land Rover 110
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old January 7th, 2013, 11:35 PM
Paul K's Avatar
Paul K
Status: Offline
Paul Kennington
'85 Ninety V8 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: La Grande, Oregon
Posts: 1,698
Registry
You guys are awesome!

I think my best bet will be to wait until after 2015, so I can get a 90 that had the 200Tdi standard. The main reason for this is to make sure it hasn't had a burned out 200 jury-rigged in there. Plus I hear they are tightening up on LRs coming in without their original engine/chassis. I'll go buy one in the UK & have it shipped here (can you ship to the West coast or is it cheaper to ship to the East coast & have it trailered here?) then drive it for a couple of years before getting the chassis & bulkhead replaced & the transmission swapped over to an auto. Maybe by then they'll have the epoxy coating down to a fine art without warping issues. Hopefully the rig will be in good enough shape that I can sell the old frame & bulkhead for restoration to recoup some of my costs, but I am not expecting much after 25 years in the UK!

Brian- if we make it up to your neck of the woods (likely, as my wife has family in Bellevue) we'll stop by & say hello!

Thanks again,

Paul.
__________________
Current fleet: '85 Ninety 3.9 V8i Auto SW, two Discovery 1's (one for my Nephew, one for my Niece),'07 BMW 335Xi.
Past Land Rovers: '96 Discovery SD, '00 Range Rover HSE, '04 Discovery SE7, '07 Range Rover HSE, '08 LR3 SE7.
Past fleet: '89 Classic Mini, '83 Porsche 911 SC Coupe, '89 911 Carrera targa, '96 911 Carrera 4, '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser, several Minis.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old January 8th, 2013, 08:51 AM
NPT90's Avatar
NPT90
Status: Offline
JT
D90 óriginalé
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: DC/MD
Posts: 2,772
Registry
its a crapshoot really, an original 200 tdi will need a lot of work just like any 25 year old defender, but agree the job is smaller working with an 200 tdi.

a few things to remember,

1. You are always competing with many countries in Europe that don't pay tax on vehicles over 25 years old and grab up many desirable D90s, finding one that won't need extensive repairs both to the bulkhead and the frame will demand a pretty penny

2. an original 25 year old 200 tdi will likely need a full rebuild (not always, but again competition).

3. Importation varies port to port and method to method. I imagine getting a 25 year old defender into the country with a 300 tdi wouldn't be all that difficult, provided the vehicle didn't have a full puma interior

concerning the RI you don't need one if the vehicle is 25 years old, really the only thing you need is a freight broker across the pond (I would avoid using US agents to book this as their markup is asinine in my experience) and a customs agent in the US to file the declarations (actually pretty reasonable).

if the vehicle is less than 25 years old you need a RI blah blah blah; I poured over the documents and finally did it myself, buying sight unseen is really a bigger problem than getting it on a boat (I did RORO and the customs agents merely checked the vin plate under the hood, could have cared less about what engine was under the hood).
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old January 8th, 2013, 09:03 AM
Paul K's Avatar
Paul K
Status: Offline
Paul Kennington
'85 Ninety V8 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: La Grande, Oregon
Posts: 1,698
Registry
Jtomchik:

Thanks for the info! I have looked at some defenders that are in the 7-9 thousand pond range and they really don't look that bad, but I understand that 25 years is a long time in the UK weather & driving conditions. I'd buy one here, but as I mentioned, paying $20k for one that someone just spent $8k on & shipped over just doesn't make sense.

One thing I am considering is buying on that's 23 years old & storing it over in the UK for a few years, to avoid the '25-year old rush'.

So how difficult is it to bring in a <25 year old one? Ideally I'd like to find a late 90's, especially if I could find a 50-year anniversary model with the V8.

Thanks again,

Paul.
__________________
Current fleet: '85 Ninety 3.9 V8i Auto SW, two Discovery 1's (one for my Nephew, one for my Niece),'07 BMW 335Xi.
Past Land Rovers: '96 Discovery SD, '00 Range Rover HSE, '04 Discovery SE7, '07 Range Rover HSE, '08 LR3 SE7.
Past fleet: '89 Classic Mini, '83 Porsche 911 SC Coupe, '89 911 Carrera targa, '96 911 Carrera 4, '07 Toyota FJ Cruiser, several Minis.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old January 8th, 2013, 09:44 AM
NPT90's Avatar
NPT90
Status: Offline
JT
D90 óriginalé
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: DC/MD
Posts: 2,772
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul K View Post
Jtomchik:

Thanks for the info! I have looked at some defenders that are in the 7-9 thousand pond range and they really don't look that bad, but I understand that 25 years is a long time in the UK weather & driving conditions. I'd buy one here, but as I mentioned, paying $20k for one that someone just spent $8k on & shipped over just doesn't make sense.

One thing I am considering is buying on that's 23 years old & storing it over in the UK for a few years, to avoid the '25-year old rush'.

So how difficult is it to bring in a <25 year old one? Ideally I'd like to find a late 90's, especially if I could find a 50-year anniversary model with the V8.

Thanks again,

Paul.
Less than 25 years old is really borderline impossible. First of all it needs to be converted to LHD and meet the saftey specs of a NAS truck, its never going to be worth the expense and the work has to be done by a RI, meaning you have no real options and are really at the mercy of the RI.
Storing a vehicle before shipment is difficult as well, you really need a resident of the UK to keep the vehicle registered and pay the tax for the vehicle. If a vehicle doesn't have current MOT or is SORN it cannot be exported. I imagine a dealer could hold onto it for you but that's not free and the dealers in the UK aren't idiots, they know what they can get for a truck that is exportable.

figure a RORO delivery will cost anywhere between $2500-$4500, container rates about the same unless you can piggyback or share space in one, but there is always the possibility that the EPA folks will make your life hell (hence my preference for RORO). If someone purchased a truck for $8000 and paid $3000-$5000 to ship it you can see how you arrive at $15-20K pretty quickly.

------ Follow up post added January 8th, 2013 09:49 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul K View Post
Jtomchik:
especially if I could find a 50-year anniversary model with the V8.
If you want a v8 then why not buy a NAS truck? they are certainly approaching the reasonable price range (especially if you are looking at replacing a frame ect).

I mean, I reached across the pond for the diesel :D
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
S IIa Transmission Swap Questions rlynch356 Series Technical Discussions 7 April 8th, 2012 08:48 PM
good site for chassis swap. Skeena river rover Defender Technical Discussions 0 December 14th, 2011 01:28 AM
GALV. Chassis Swap - Resale? Flagg Defender Technical Discussions 2 April 23rd, 2007 05:00 PM
Some notes on head gasket swap issues Hans Misc. Chit-Chat 0 January 17th, 2005 06:40 PM
Should I sell my chassis? JimC For Sale - Parts 14 May 11th, 2004 02:59 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:00 AM.


Copyright