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  #1  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 08:54 PM
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Chassis Protection / Rust Proofing

Hello-

I am looking to protect the chassis on my 1988 110. Chassis is in good condition, only light surface rust. Is wax oil the best option still?

thanks
Ben

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  #2  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 08:56 PM
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HEY NOW!! I have not seen that truck on the road?? We have a few blokes in and around Aldie...

whats the story on it?
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  #3  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:07 PM
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it is almost fresh off the boat (after the 3 week CBP inpound!). She has been over here for a little over a month. My mother purchased her new back in 1988 in Gloucestershire UK and after keeping her in the garage and travelling 60,000 miles since 1988 i finally persuaded her to let me bring her to Virginia. Would be good to meet up with you and the other enthusiastic.
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  #4  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Dutton View Post
it is almost fresh off the boat (after the 3 week CBP inpound!). She has been over here for a little over a month. My mother purchased her new back in 1988 in Gloucestershire UK and after keeping her in the garage and travelling 60,000 miles since 1988 i finally persuaded her to let me bring her to Virginia. Would be good to meet up with you and the other enthusiastic.
Holy crap! That's awesome...bring her down for NoVa Happy Hour.
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  #5  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:21 PM
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Chip
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I'm going to enjoy this thread! Staying on top of the rot is imperative!

My paint guy uses something made by Dupont which is a waxy yellowish spray, he also uses a wand with it to get into cavities.

The boys across the pond swear by the Waxoil. Seems a bit pricey, but so is rust repair

Chip
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  #6  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:22 PM
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Problem with waxoil is everyone is suspicious of whats hidden underneath .... One owner family truck ... that's awesome!

You can prevent further corrosion by washing the underneath of the truck ... for some reason everyone expects a defender chassis to dissolve the first time it experiences a US winter ....
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #7  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:24 PM
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I was told that the waxoil just covers the rot - but does not really stop it?
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  #8  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Dutton View Post
Hello-

I am looking to protect the chassis on my 1988 110. Chassis is in good condition, only light surface rust. Is wax oil the best option still?

thanks
Ben

Attachment 108007
Best option is to heed to your mother and return that sweet 110 to the garage when the state starts spraying the salt. Then keep it parked until the third spring rain.
For rust maintenance, some have good results with WD-90. Just hose down the chassis 2 or 3 times per year. I use the big blast can. Takes 5 minutes.
Looking forward to meeting you at our HH. I am just up the road near Oatlands.
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  #9  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Dutton View Post
Hello-

I am looking to protect the chassis on my 1988 110. Chassis is in good condition, only light surface rust. Is wax oil the best option still?

thanks
Ben

Attachment 108007
Man, thats a nice looking rig!
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  #10  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:56 PM
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Great looking truck! GLWSR. (Good Luck With Stopping Rust)
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  #11  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 10:18 PM
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Beautiful truck and great story... welcome!
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  #12  
Old December 3rd, 2014, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Holy crap! That's awesome...bring her down for NoVa Happy Hour.
Hey now...
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  #13  
Old December 4th, 2014, 08:02 AM
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shayne young
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Winzer does a product called rust-con, or you can just use osphocote.. It is supposed to penetrate and convert rust to a black oxide...give your frame a really good internal cleaning to make sure there are no deposits of dirt etc in the low laying sections, run liberal amounts of water through the frame watching where it comes out until it no longer comes out dirty, you can give the frame a bit of a smack with a deadblow hammer or a bit of wood in the lower sections to make sure you dislodge as much puddled rust or dirt as you can..let that completely dry, park the car on the steepest incline you can forward and backwards to help draining out of the frame.. Go to your local paint store and buy the rust preventative spray hose...it's basically a long plastic hose with a spray nozzle on the end that sprays a 90 degree spray out the end of it...insert this into your frame as far as you can and spray as you pull it out..don't be afraid to use a couple of cans.. Let that stuff dry for a couple of days, weeks..don't let the underbody get wet, and then use waxoyl or some other liquid coating solution in the same way, and then let that dry without getting wet in the same fashion.. And don't be afraid to drill a small (1/4") hole in the frame in the low points of the frame, this will let you make sure that the insides of the frame aren't retaining water in these sections..in future when you wash the insides out all you have to do is make sure water is coming out of these holes and you know it's not accumulated with crud..retreat every couple of years and you should be good to go.. We used to use a rust preventative that had a lot of fish oil in it, stunk like high heaven for a couple of weeks but was some good stuff...
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  #14  
Old December 4th, 2014, 08:04 AM
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For a solid chassis, waxoyl is the best defense.
I degreased/hand washed the underside of my 90, removed the trans xmember and exhaust to get better access. Treated any rust with a converter, applied 3 coats of frame paint then 3 coats of hard waxoyl. I also applied clear waxoyl to the inside of the frame, door frames and bulkhead.
I did this 8 years ago and it has held up well. It's a dirty job, but well worth it in my humble opinion...

Cheers...
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  #15  
Old December 4th, 2014, 08:29 AM
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Ben, beautiful truck. I live near by and would be happy to show you what WD40 has done for me for 10+ years as a daily driver and 100k+ miles on Northern Virginia roads and East Coast trails as well. I personally use an air pressurized lawn fertilizer can and a $19 can of WD40 twice a year or so. The key is to start clean and keep it clean, which does not sound like a problem in your case. In full disclosure I have not used waxoyl. Reason being it seems like a huge commitment to keep up with IMO. WD40 allows me to always know what I'm dealing with. I've seen too many waxoyl applications That have not been kept up to peak performance which becomes a nightmare.

Clay
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  #16  
Old December 4th, 2014, 09:49 AM
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i was skeptical about waxoyl until i started doing the application process at my shop . if prepped and applied correctly it will make the chassis look like its just painted not globbed on tar and will be protected internally and externally . i can tell you that the waxoyl job i did on my 130 lasted approx 8yrs and needs to be touched up now . just to give you an idea the process is very labor intensive an i takes me 4-8 hours in prep and masking and approx 8hrs for hard wax (black) external and another 2-4 hr internal (clear) if you would like to see some results visit my page and if you have any other question please don't hesitate to contact me .
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rovertek/102768113153074
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  #17  
Old December 4th, 2014, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by rovertek View Post
i was skeptical about waxoyl until i started doing the application process at my shop . if prepped and applied correctly it will make the chassis look like its just painted not globbed on tar and will be protected internally and externally . i can tell you that the waxoyl job i did on my 130 lasted approx 8yrs and needs to be touched up now . just to give you an idea the process is very labor intensive an i takes me 4-8 hours in prep and masking and approx 8hrs for hard wax (black) external and another 2-4 hr internal (clear) if you would like to see some results visit my page and if you have any other question please don't hesitate to contact me .
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rovertek/102768113153074
I agree with Chris. It is a pain in the ass with the masking and prepwork. It is just like any job the prepwork is 90% of the job. It also makes a huge mess. When RN sold me the product they told me to buy a jug of veggie oil so you can clean up your mess, do not over look this part.


I highly recommend this process. I dived in and got the guns and have done a few trucks, if you are looking to do just one truck I would highly recommend going to a shop. This time of year you need the waxoyl to be warm to flow nice. I have used a warm bucket to pre-heat the can. I think prices from most guys depends on the amount of prepwork. I would also recommend seeing the prepwork finished (before spraying) and also take photos.
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  #18  
Old December 4th, 2014, 01:07 PM
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Make sure the chassis is clean AND dry before you start. You don't want to trap moisture / mud or other crud.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #19  
Old December 4th, 2014, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Make sure the chassis is clean AND dry before you start. You don't want to trap moisture / mud or other crud.
Yeah I've been dealing with the worst case of this, where the waxoyl was used to conceal issues and applied over a filthy earlier coating. Hours with a torch, scraper and mineral spirits....
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  #20  
Old December 4th, 2014, 02:19 PM
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David Short
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A wire brush and a good chassis paint like Eastwood's Chassis Black is another easy, low cost option.

Paint or waxoyl - if you keep a good coat of something over the steel then you are doing OK.

I expect to see that rig at the next ROAV outing in Wintergreen VA April 10-12, 2015. You have lots of time to prepare.
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