Chassis Protection / Rust Proofing - Page 4 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #61  
Old December 9th, 2015, 05:40 PM
rijosho's Avatar
rijosho
Status: Offline
Joshua
1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
Research Assistant/Eagle Eyes
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 16,557
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnsD90 View Post
or buy one, they are like $3-4k IIRC.
Yeah just buy one if they're only $3-4k!
__________________
Quote:
I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #62  
Old December 9th, 2015, 05:41 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,523
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN38 View Post
I can't stress enough how important it is to keep the underside of a vehicle clean and free of clumps of dirt.
So true. Even galvanizing gets affected by dirt/mud - even to the point of staining.
Reply With Quote
  #63  
Old December 9th, 2015, 05:48 PM
CDN38's Avatar
CDN38
Status: Offline
Scott Pelly
2000 110 TD5
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 950
Registry
Yes, definitely flush out the frame, it's chock full of dirt, slurry and silt. After a while the water will run clear, and then you should be good. Then if you have compressed air available to you and a long wand, blow through the frame completely to help lose anything else in there. Then rinse again. Give it another blow out to help it dry.

It's tough to get fully clean, as most of what is in there is lie a fine dust, it gets wet and then dries, it's like a hard clay. Plus there are internal structures in the frame that the silt piles up against.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #64  
Old December 9th, 2015, 05:55 PM
JohnsD90's Avatar
JohnsD90
Status: Offline
John
74 SIII 88", 88 110, 91 110
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 2,282
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN38 View Post
Yes, definitely flush out the frame, it's chock full of dirt, slurry and silt. After a while the water will run clear, and then you should be good. Then if you have compressed air available to you and a long wand, blow through the frame completely to help lose anything else in there. Then rinse again. Give it another blow out to help it dry.

It's tough to get fully clean, as most of what is in there is lie a fine dust, it gets wet and then dries, it's like a hard clay. Plus there are internal structures in the frame that the silt piles up against.
Yeah, this is why i do not like box frames, I wish everything had galvinized C frames.

And Josh, a new frame for a 110 is like $3500, the steam cleaner pays for itself!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
roof

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Chassis rust removal and protection Hache Smaller Projects 31 April 20th, 2014 12:12 PM
Bulkheads rust proofing measures... IPSC_GUY Misc. Chit-Chat 1 January 27th, 2010 10:02 AM
waxoyl Rust Proofing Service whtd90 Misc. Chit-Chat 0 January 21st, 2009 04:01 PM
Electronic Rust Protection Michael Defender Technical Discussions 31 August 15th, 2007 07:23 AM
Rust, damn rust, and rust jaherring Defender Technical Discussions 14 September 2nd, 2004 07:27 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:15 AM.


Copyright