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  #41  
Old October 23rd, 2015, 07:04 PM
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Anybody use this stuff?
Boeshield
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  #42  
Old October 23rd, 2015, 09:27 PM
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Sounds similar to ACF 50

Lear Chemical Research Corporation

Spray this under body capping, hingesetc...

Lear Chemical Research Corporation
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  #43  
Old October 30th, 2015, 02:59 PM
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Another Fluid Film fan, for all the reasons previously stated. It works really well and one can see what is going on. Good on paint and plastics too, brings sun faded black plastic trim back to like new, for about 3 months anyway. I use a HRS waxoyl gun with a custom pressure washer tip to apply.
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  #44  
Old October 30th, 2015, 03:19 PM
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What's a good product to go over a galvy frame? Not worried about rust, but this red Hawaiian dirt will stain the frame red. Obviously needs to be clear. I've been told to just spray with WD-40.
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  #45  
Old October 30th, 2015, 03:26 PM
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Here's the DInitrol application I completed last week.

First is after the application of the internal rust inhibitor, then applying the cavity wax inside the frame. 3rd photo is the ML on the frame. It goes on liquid, and dries back to a soft finish. If you touch it, it leaves a thumb print, but doesn't come off, just an oily sheen. Then on top of that is the underbody wax, again, it dries back soft and doesn't harden. It's described as "self healing" being that it remains soft and if scratched will re-form. The upper inside fenders are sprayed with a harder stone chip product.

Last photo is pretty cool. Forward facing mud shields. Stops all the crap from flinging up inside the wheel well on the anchor for the seatbelt, against the up-stand, seat anchor brackets and seat crossmember. Have a similar set up for the rear to stop the rear crossmember filling with crap. (can't seem to find the picture though)
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  #46  
Old October 30th, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
What's a good product to go over a galvy frame? Not worried about rust, but this red Hawaiian dirt will stain the frame red. Obviously needs to be clear. I've been told to just spray with WD-40.
A good spraying of pineapple juice to include internal frame, followed by a healthy dose of Banana Boat oil. Then sacrifice a bottle of rum to Pele.

BTW, if we haven't met before, my real name is Pele.

------ Follow up post added October 30th, 2015 03:54 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN38 View Post
Here's the DInitrol application I completed last week.

First is after the application of the internal rust inhibitor, then applying the cavity wax inside the frame. 3rd photo is the ML on the frame. It goes on liquid, and dries back to a soft finish. If you touch it, it leaves a thumb print, but doesn't come off, just an oily sheen. Then on top of that is the underbody wax, again, it dries back soft and doesn't harden. It's described as "self healing" being that it remains soft and if scratched will re-form. The upper inside fenders are sprayed with a harder stone chip product.

Last photo is pretty cool. Forward facing mud shields. Stops all the crap from flinging up inside the wheel well on the anchor for the seatbelt, against the up-stand, seat anchor brackets and seat crossmember. Have a similar set up for the rear to stop the rear crossmember filling with crap. (can't seem to find the picture though)


Nice! So you can get Dinitrol in Canada? Do you resell it?
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  #47  
Old October 30th, 2015, 05:02 PM
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Although the chassis on my 90 is galvanised I also use dinitrol, sprayed into the door channels and into the bulkhead via the door hinges.
you can also use the clear coatings in waxoil and dinitrol if your worried about being accused of covering things up.
Make sure the inside of the chassis it well coated, in my experience the chassis and crossmember rot from the inside out and the outriggers suffer grit/spray damage.
To help cut down on spray damage from the salt laden uk roads if fitted these to the front and a set covering the rear crossmember.
Land Rover Defender 90 110 130 Mud Shield Mudflaps Inner Wing Front Outrigger | eBay

A friend has fed a pipe from the crankcase breather into the chassis rails, 17years later the chassis is still perfect offroad damage aside.

Nice 110 btw

regards all
Gren
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  #48  
Old October 30th, 2015, 05:17 PM
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Love the recycling of crankcase oil idea.
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  #49  
Old October 30th, 2015, 05:17 PM
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I fitted the Gwyn Lewis mud shields for the outriggers, front of rear wheel shield, quick release removable mud flaps with the inner shields. The mud shields are an amazing product. Simple and effective. How LR never came up with it is beyond me.

I bought mine from Gwyn Lewis, but now Rovalution in North Van is stocking them.
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  #50  
Old October 30th, 2015, 05:28 PM
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Actually you can't get Dinitrol in North America. There is a distributor here, but they only deal in the big industrial distribution of bulk product.

I am bringing smaller quantities in (the specific Land Rover kit). Damn near impossible to air shi[ as it's a solvent based, therefor flammable, therefore it's considered dangerous goods. Can't airship by standard methods so it's tough (and freakin' expensive) to get here. I brought in 4 kits by air in August and they have all sold locally. I am looking at bringing in a larger volume over the winter to sell. I have studied up on it for almost a year now and talked to lots of guys in the UK that have it, and even professionals that apply the products. It's as good as it gets.
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  #51  
Old October 31st, 2015, 04:08 AM
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http://m.summitracing.com/parts/poi-...FUiQHwodzoQEvg

This is pretty good stuff. Can be applied by brush or sprayed. I believe it may come in a rattle can now as well and matches the chassis black color well.
I apologize if there is a similar post , computer froze about the time I tried to post this a few minutes ago.
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  #52  
Old October 31st, 2015, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN38 View Post
Here's the DInitrol application I completed last week.
That looks great! I wish there was someone in Maine offering that service. I wonder what this would cost. I had the frame interior sprayed but I really need to get on top of the undercarriage.
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  #53  
Old October 31st, 2015, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
What's a good product to go over a galvy frame? Not worried about rust, but this red Hawaiian dirt will stain the frame red. Obviously needs to be clear. I've been told to just spray with WD-40.

My RRHunter lived on the Marine Corps base in HI for a year or so but it doesnt look like it ever ventured off-road!
I would definitely go over the frame on your truck. I've seen galvy frames with rust in less time than you'd expect. Mostly from sea salt air exposure and/or snow-salt driving.



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  #54  
Old December 9th, 2015, 04:46 PM
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I used Chassis Saver and topcoated it with a flat black chassis paint on my Tacoma a few weeks ago. I had some severe rust issues that required a lot of repairing.

It came out nice but it is not that pretty. The Chassis Saver is very goop-ey and forms a plastic like shell over everything. It seems to be better suited for utility purposes where you are really not that concerned with the aesthetics. I can post pictures of the frame if anyone is interested. I plan out coating it with fluid film when done.

From what I have seen Dinitrol 900 looks like the way to go if you can find it.
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  #55  
Old December 9th, 2015, 04:51 PM
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I'm struggling with the first step on this-cleaning the undercarriage and frame for prep. Where does one go about finding a steam cleaner for the underbody that will get in all the spaces?
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  #56  
Old December 9th, 2015, 04:54 PM
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Power washing it. Rent a tool for it
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  #57  
Old December 9th, 2015, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
I'm struggling with the first step on this-cleaning the undercarriage and frame for prep. Where does one go about finding a steam cleaner for the underbody that will get in all the spaces?
You can probably rent one or just do some online searching to see if there are any business near you that can do the steam cleaning.
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  #58  
Old December 9th, 2015, 05:11 PM
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Look into hot water pressure washer rentals. Alternatively, you could check with local detailers and see if they can help, they may have contacts with companies that do engine steam cleaning. Last resort would be talking to an undercoating company, they would probably be able to do the cleaning, but nobody would clean it as good as you! On top of that, the will try to sell you on their crappy undercoating as being "the best product out there" ... hogwash... However, you should just be able to hire them to clean the underside... I still go by DIY would the best though.

Along with a de-greasing spray, hot water helps remove excessive grease, and any old coatings that may be present.

Just did a NAS 90 last night, probably removed about 10 lbs of dirt and mud that had been hiding above the front outriggers and in the rear body mounts for years. Very evident the truck has never had the underside washed. Even a good thorough cold water pressure wash with a pre-spray and soak of a good de-greaser will remove a ton of crap from the underside. Especially if you can get on a hoist, or be able to access the underside which allows you to get all the nooks and crannies.

I can't stress enough how important it is to keep the underside of a vehicle clean and free of clumps of dirt.
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  #59  
Old December 9th, 2015, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
I'm struggling with the first step on this-cleaning the undercarriage and frame for prep. Where does one go about finding a steam cleaner for the underbody that will get in all the spaces?
When I steam clean my cars, I shove the the nozzle in the frame, and wait to see the soapy water pouring out of all the drain holes on the frame. See if you can rent one from a tool rental place, or buy one, they are like $3-4k IIRC.
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  #60  
Old December 9th, 2015, 05:17 PM
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thanks. I know where to rent pressure washers but never heard of steam cleaners.

not many chassis protection specialists in charlotte.
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