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  #21  
Old April 11th, 2013, 03:23 PM
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You will break the bolts holding the shock towers on so you need two rings and I would replace the shock towers with stock height tubular ones. I would replace the four motor and trans rubber mounts. I would plan on replacing a bunch of the brake and fuel line clips.

I would not plan on replacing all of my suspension bolts and nuts and steering box bolts and 90% of the old ones will be fine, but that is just me, and I would toss the brake dust plates in the trash.

------ Follow up post added April 11th, 2013 03:24 PM ------

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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
I have seen the thin sheet metal dif cover rust through. I think if you have an axle housing out, that a weld on pipe cap is the way to go.

-Jeff
I have seen it too, but if you keep some paint on it (or have oil leaks) they seem fine.
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  #22  
Old April 11th, 2013, 03:29 PM
DonFromWhitby
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
You will break the bolts holding the shock towers on so you need two rings and I would replace the shock towers with stock height tubular ones. I would replace the four motor and trans rubber mounts. I would plan on replacing a bunch of the brake and fuel line clips.

I would not plan on replacing all of my suspension bolts and nuts and steering box bolts and 90% of the old ones will be fine, but that is just me, and I would toss the brake dust plates in the trash.

------ Follow up post added April 11th, 2013 03:24 PM ------



I have seen it too, but if you keep some paint on it (or have oil leaks) they seem fine.
Do you mean leave off replacing the old brake dust shields, or toss the old ones and not replace them at all?

I totally forgot about the engine and tranny mounts. Also, I'm not sure if you get the tranny bolt-in crossmember when you buy a new chassis?
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  #23  
Old April 11th, 2013, 03:32 PM
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I mean leave them off entirely. If you must have them, galvanize them as they don't last in my experience. Some chassis come with the crossmember, some don't. I have not yet seen one rust out. The sides where they touch the frame may pit, but the metal is thicker than the frame so the frame behind goes first. I put a galvanized one in my truck and put grease between it and the frame.
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  #24  
Old April 11th, 2013, 03:34 PM
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For your nuts and bolts, I wouldn't waste my money on Genuine stuff, unless it's more unique items like the lugs that hold the diff in the axle, etc.

When I refurbished my rear tire carrier, I measured each nut and bolt with calipers as I pulled it off and made note of it on a spreadsheet. Then I went to McMaster-Carr and ordered each fastener that I needed in grade 316 stainless steel.
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  #25  
Old April 11th, 2013, 10:54 PM
DonFromWhitby
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Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
For your nuts and bolts, I wouldn't waste my money on Genuine stuff, unless it's more unique items like the lugs that hold the diff in the axle, etc.

When I refurbished my rear tire carrier, I measured each nut and bolt with calipers as I pulled it off and made note of it on a spreadsheet. Then I went to McMaster-Carr and ordered each fastener that I needed in grade 316 stainless steel.
You wouldn't happen to still have the spreadsheet would you?
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  #26  
Old April 11th, 2013, 11:01 PM
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Sadly, no. There were some PDFs of stainless steel fastener part numbers going around at one time.
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  #27  
Old April 11th, 2013, 11:18 PM
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Just remember, stainless steel eats aluminium when in contact with it. Fine for door hinge bolts, but for body bolts, I use regular galvanized steel coated 8.8.
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  #28  
Old April 12th, 2013, 11:09 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Finish the 109 before starting another project! I can't imagine trying to do two at the same time, or even keep track of which parts belong to which if even just trying to ignore the other.
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